djr81

Do you have any other details about what was customized eg shock dyno curves or other information?

The hose that goes from the turbro inlet to the engine on the exhaust side has a really small restrictor in it. Did you replicate that?

http://holinger.com.au/showroom/gtr

Fk, given the carnage down there this weekend that is a big call. Looked to be a bit of a shambles with just about every race having bent cars in it. Loving the variety in your category. 20B Rx, four Skylines (Who's is the Calsonic one?) and two nutters running Westfields in a category that includes Falcons and Commodores. The Emo ok or is it stuffed as well? Post up your interview. Looked smooth.

Looks neat on the tellie at the V8 round along with all the other Skylines. Hope the fire didn't cause too much damage.

Haven't seen it but if you don't mind the price it looks to be a good thing. Nice and tidy with a rebuilt engine. Would be worth looking at. You do realize its in WA?

There are a number of telltales for high kms. I am not saying they apply to this car. But they usually are warn seat, warn steering wheel, warn leather boots and paint off the plenum. As I said the car looks tip top but I would ask the bloke in the white leather shoes to see if he has an explanation. The plenum paint is known to flake off anyway so isn't a reliable indicator. It just stands out on such a tidy car is all. It may well be someone has had a go at removing it after a small amount flaked off.

Condition of the inlet manifold worries me. Just about everything else looks tip top. Matching numbers?

Its not actually that uncommon to find the earlier 32's painted white. For some reason Nissan didn't start making white R32 GTRs until about half way through the model cycle. So its not as uncommon as you might think to find a GMG (And shitloads of them were GMG) car painted white. Painting the engine bay is engine out and a pain in the ar$e so it as often as not doesn't get done. Ofcourse the driver for repainting the car will often be that it was in a bingle - so have a good look.

Find the blue plate in the engine bay. It will have a code on it for the colour of the car. BNR32 #KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic #KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic #TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl #AH3 - Read Pearl Metallic #732 - Black Pearl Metallic #326 - Cristal White #KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic #BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order) #AN0 - Wine Red Chances are it is a pre1992 car that was once gun metal grey and it has been painted white.

Ah good. I tried finding one from a pressure regulator/filter but they have all gone to some sort of synthetic stuff. Have bought a handful off eBay and will have a crack. Be interested to see how porous they are.

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil. I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that. https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html Would be neater, surely?

I have some strut tops from isc performance. They are rubber where others are bearings. They don't knock and will last you. You will probably need to ask as they don't show therm on their site. But check your shock shaft diameter and Spring inside diameter to make sure they fit. I am on a shit iPad so can't figure out to paste a link. This may work. Or not. Search for that thread and have a read.

Having habitually run R spec tyres on track in the wet I can tell you they are fine. Faster than road tyres in fact. So NFI where the ice skates thing comes from other than Nitto probably trying to cover their arses.

Rays list them at 82,000 yen each. https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=CE28N10 So that plus freight. Where from? Start with the likes of RHD Japan, Nengun and then move on to Jess Streeter. You are looking at over $1000 per rim and they wont fit properly. The problem with the sticky thread is that how ever well meaning it started out it is now inhabited and infected by the hektik fitment types. In the olden days the universal aftermarket rim size on an R32 GTR was 17x9+22. Which just about fits but often as not scraped on the rear. Now it is apparently 20x11.5+0 with 10 dergees camber to make it fit and no way of applying more than 3 degrees lock. Hektik in other words.

If you have some spare springs available I would chuck something like 7 or 8kg/mm on the front. If you have some anti roll bars I would do that too although 27mm front sounds odd. Is it a Whiteline bar or a Cusco? From memory they are smaller. 22mm? Anyway the idea is to add more roll stiffness to the rear relative to the front. Whatever parts you may have try them out to get a feel for setup direction. At the moment your 16kg spring is trying to resist about 3/4 of the roll which loads the tyre up hard relative to the back. Then you are asking it to turn aswell. So you get understeer.

Thoughts? Take some front spring out of it and buy some sway bars. If you are running 65mm spring they aren't more than a couple hundred bucks a pair and easy enough to change. I would start there. Chuck the 11kg back in and see what difference it makes. It should henlp in the mid corner and will then give you a direction. Castor/camber is about in the ball park but with a big spring stiffness and relatively little anti roll it is hard to be sure. I'm not a fan of the hard front/soft rear and no antil roll bar upgrades recommended by some. You will get really good traction but buckets of understeer.

You will always get understeer at Wanneroo, particularly through Kolb but also T1 and it punishes the lap times particularly hard. In no particular order I have found the following helpful. Reducing the preload on the diff. The last thing you want is it pushing the front wide and to be honest you wont get much single pegger loving anyway with less preload. Increasing the rear spring rate relative to the front. Run loads of front end -ve camber. How much do you have? Sod off big rear anti roll bars although if you go too hard on the rear realtive to spring rate the car turns in brilliantly and then washes out which makes it really frustrating to drive. There isnt a huge amount of aero to be had as the mid corner speeds are below 100km/h.

Looks purty. Are we allowed to ask what spring rates & sway bars youa re running?

To be honest suspension is best done on software - it will let you work out, for example, how much camber compensation you get in roll and a bunch of other things. Which software to pick may be your question? For a sugestion: Analysis Techniques for Racecar Data Acquisition by Jorge Segers is not the worst book by any measure. Sticking point is you need a high level logger to record data on things like damper movement etc. Also have a look here: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de/downloads/software/software_1.html

Everyone who has has an R32 has had this problem. The mode door actuator sticks. Have a fiddle with the actuator arm while you change the mode on the dash. If you are lucky it will unstick and work for another couple months before it sticks again. Either that or its completely fkd and you need to fix and or replace it. In either case have a google and you will find it behind the centre console panel thing below the glove box.

Needs to nail the apexes like that HQ in the video. Lap times would be epic.

Sideways through McPhillamy and not even the hint of a lift in the chase. Solid.

If your numbers are all the same except for one cylinder the chances are you have a problem with that one cylinder - ie #6. So yeah have another go at a compression test but dont be surprised if you have an issue particularly if it is spitting oil.