djr81

Use car polish.

Car looks nice. I’m in the throes of swapping a power fc for a link ecu so will be interested to hear your opinion on how the two compare. The only other comment is the front needs more neg camber GTR’s are bastards for understeer.

Can the thread have more XE Falcon?

Think the problem is the spacer fits on the hub but not the rim. The other thing to keep in mind is do you have enough stud length?

Not 100% sure on this but: You can get rims in 66.1mm diameter centre bore and you can get them in 73.1 diameter. You appear to have bought a spacer that allows fitting of one to the other

If the dampers are worn out then yes as you cant/wont get them rebuilt. You could maybe try and replace the dampers alone but to be honest it is just as cheap and a damn site easier to get a coil over package and be done with it. But start with the spring rates, work out your budget and reconcile with the fact that if you ask a dozen people you will get a dozen different answers none of which will be even close to the same. For example. If you were to go with a Nismo S spec set of springs/dampers they start at 4 & 3 kg/mm (If I read it correctly) which is at the low end of the range. MCA will spec something very different again and it varies with their intended use. The ones you were looking at were 12 & 8kg/mm which is pretty stiff. What you will mostly find is a front spring rate 1 or 2 kg/mm stiffer than the rear (MCA aside) and anywhere in a range from 5kg up to 12 or so. If you want it for a road car then you should be in the single digits. Whether it be 5 or more is really up to you. But as I said - find out what your current spring rate is and go from there.

First step is find out what spring rates you have there. I cant find a listing for APEXi N1 in an R32 GTST but it could be me failing at google. The rate "should" be written on the spring. Maybe 5kg/mm front & 4kg/mm rear or 10/8 or who knows. It is your start point. If the rate isn't shown measure the wire diameter and count the number of windings. That will allow an idea of what you have. The ones in your post above are 12kg/mm & 8kg/mm which is stiff. So if you want a decent ride you will be disappointed.

The look like APEXi N1 dampers.

So if you were in Auckland how much of that was spent going nowhere in traffic?

5.5 or 6kg/mm or thereabouts.

You mean these numbers?

Don't leave it dripping as brake fluid will trash your paintwork.

So for a baseline do you have a dyno chart of the 384kW pull?

I used these folk. http://www.nzefi.com/products/fuel-system/fuel-system-injectors/vehicle-specific-injector-kits/

To use Rays as an example their CE28's have just about every PCD known to man shown on the rim. How they drill/forge/machine/make the hub determines the PCD and the offset (to an extent). It is the same forging which makes sense from a manufacturing point of view. So, for example the +22 & +15 CE28's shown below are the same forging, just machined 7mm different. You cant tell them apart from the outside, only by looking at the back of the hub. It also has 4x114.3, VIA, 5x100 & 4x100 shown on it. It is a 5x114.3 PCD rim.

I would recommend: 1. Take photos of it with an inch of dust on everything. 2. Repair it back to as stock as you can make it. 3. Call it a survivor car. 4. Profit.

Not fun. The root cause of it all is blowby. Around Wanneroo RB's should be fine. Before you chuck any bandaids on it check the compression. Also as has been said check the remaining oil for go fast glitter.

Looking at the photo, the tyres are six years old, so not actually worth very much.

Same here. Where do I go to collect my $20?

Pretty sure that reasonably fit for purpose and hektik in fitment are not the same thing. Again: If someone asked you now what size & offset you wanted, what would the answer be? For that matter what size & offset did they sell you?

"How often and what percentage of people order custom wheels, to know what information needs to be provided to get it right ?" Nearly all of them. In fact I would say 100% other than you didn't. The almost inevitable outcome of not specifying what you want is you get whatever is served up. Which in this case you didn't like. Out of interest if someone asked you now what size & offset you wanted, what would the answer be? For that matter what size & offset did they sell you?

1. Moot. not mute. 2. "They didn’t do due diligence and take no responsibility when the wheels don’t fit" Whereas you did? 3. You needed to specify what you wanted, not what you wanted it for. Simply put failing to correctly specify the offset you wanted is down to you.

What was wrong with what drenj222 had? If it is the condition of the material under the covers they are all like that. You have to go and buy some material and fit it yourself.

They are just a basic cyclone. Pretty easy to get one fabbed up in aluminium. The other thing commonly used is a sintered brass bush. Like this:. https://www.valvesonline.com.au/brass-mini-silencer