djr81

Skinnier yes, but isnt it M14 & M12 rather than M12 & M10 as posted above?

Good result but you could have tried ringing around the wrecking yards on the Gold Coast first... https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news/ferrari-f40-crash

As Duncan said the F40 is a chunky old 4 piston calliper which I chose because it was 1990 something and because it has the same piston area as the GTR Brembos with a larger and fairly common pad. Point being that if anything is going to foul the BBS spokes it is probably that calliper. And it doesnt. The BBS rims in that size are ex Japan and from what I can tell made for the 32 GTR. 17x9+20.

I'll go and take one when I get home. Yes definately 17's. Like yours there is little room between the spokes of the rim and the calliper.

I have these rims on my R32 GTR and they clear F40 callipers on 324 rotors.

Doubtless he doesnt want oil back into the intercooler/inlet/engine. It doesnt have to be a problem, you just need a decent catch can. So for what its worth I would recommend this style of thing. https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/mann-hummel-provent-200-oil-seperator-catch-can-fi Has a filter, return drain and does the job. It isnt shiney and anodised so marks off for that. You can keep your pcv then which means the crankcase may get some vacuum and generally end up with less crap everywhere. There are different styles without a drain (So you have to empty them periodically). MIshomoto or something similar do one. If venting to atmosphere the pcv if left on will suck fresh air backwards through the catch can on the engine over run so wont actually do anything useful.

Which do you mean? The intercooler, the radiator, the power steering cooler, an oil cooler or the water/oil cooler on the oil circuit? Or something else?

Do you have to replace the screen or can you remove/replace the polarising film on the screen?

Duncan means what model - atmo or turbo, manual or automatic, GTT or GTR, Neo or not Neo which can all make a difference. Maybe post up a vin number and someone may help identify what it is.

Do you mean a stock, unmodified NIssan ECU? Or an aftermarket ecu?

They dont mechanically break down for want of servicing. Hell, mechanically my 32 has been reliable. But what typically happens is random stuff stops working. So the aircon stops working because the soldered joints in the door actuators age and crack. Or the boots on the cv joints split, or the power steering starts leaking because the hose is old and tired or the seats start to fall apart. Basically old car problems becasue its an old car. They are all fixable with enough time/money but no way would you put up with that on a car you needed every day of the week.

The newer car will almost always be better, whatever better is. But just buy whatever your heart tells you to, it is not a rational decision after all. Cars dont cost anything to modify if you dont modify them. Hell I am currently looking for an XE Falcon and I can promise you it is not because I think they are a good car. Or a fast car. Or a safe car. Or because they come with a good warranty. Or are easy to maintain/modify. I just want some L Jetronic drag plate air flow meter goodness in my life.

The man speaks the truth. The best way to own a GTR or even an Emo is to have it as a second car. Why? Because when it is broken you can get to work. When it is being upgraded/worked on you can get to work. When you are at work it is not stuck in a carpark and generally deteriorating from UV/panel dings/ whatever else happens when youa rent looking. You wont put a million miles on the the clock (Guessing you didnt search for GTR's with 200,000kms+ on the odometer - no one does) Insurance is serious money for such a car and they will be delighted (or not) to hear about the modifications you have made. Cops are far less likely to pull over an AU Falcon than an R32. So go buy a daily you can stomach and hate that. So when you get to drive your GTR/Emo it will be because you want to. It will probably work out cheaper anyway.

Just get the Emo.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-bcnr33-vin-table.php#OptionCodes

Dent in the sill is probably where someone has jacked it up in the wrong place. Not that it matters R32 jacking points are soft as shite and usually collapse anyway. You may want to have a think about a bit of reinforcement in that area.

Yeah thanks. That was plan B.

Just after the case the R32 ecu comes in. So if you have a dead ecu that is fine - even preferred. The R32 version has brackets on it as per the one below. Other models have different brackets.

What are you after? EFI stuff or wiring looms/plugs or just parts? Or has another FIFO nugget abandoned their R33 in park F?

It is unlikely that the absence of a hub ring is causing the vibration. More likely it will be either a tyre out of balance or related to the wheel bearing (Although thats less likely). Diameter should be 66.1 on the car and the same on the rim or if it isnt you will probably find that it is 73.1mm. As has been said, take the wheel off and measure it. To answer your original question the name of the ring that goes around the hub is hub ring. EG: https://au.gktech.com/hub-centric-rings-pair

Guessing it is on the sill near the trailing edge of the door?

Yeah it all boils down to government revenue and a trade off between rego/fuel price/road tolls. So here in WA we get bent over for rego ($800PA for an old Skyline and bugger all historic licensing), fuel is ok in the city and there arent any toll roads. Main problem being there are few outlets for E85 in Perth and sod all outside the metro areas.

Yes but to be fair the furthest you can drive in the UK is what, ten miles? Because the whole of the UK is smaller than Tasmania. So there's that.

Thanks for the offer but with the price of these things and the postage I figured it was better to tidy up what I had. Some new globes and it is much better.

It looks sufficiently warped and or distorted to be genuine. Most of them end up stuffed which is why people go for a reproduction part.