djr81

The only downside that I found was less compliance/more crash in the suspension when you went over things like train tracks/potholes etc. I went with this sort of thing. NISSAN SKYLINE R33/34 HARDRACE HEAVY DUTY TENSION ROD - Otaku Garage

Wait, what? There are standards for getting into a pub in Bunno? Gentrification must be happening. Flanno and a mullet should get you anywhere.

Hey there is nothing wrong with Bunghole. Sure it’s no Birmingham, but we go alright.😃

Hard to say isnt it. Used to be people wanted an R with modifications but I think (But dont know) they are now more drifting towards wanting the whole purity/cleanliness thing. Certainly nothing starts below $80k that I can see. How much of a premium over that is the question. So, yeah, no help at all then.

I was going to suggest checking Rodney's big ends and/or the turbo but it sounds like a dropped valve or a piston if it goes clunkety clunk and is laying down smoke screens.

Start with a compression check.

Just for posterity I believe there to be an error in the location of the NIsmo bolt hole in the first drawing.

So why not find a tribologist and get the oil tested/checked/looked at?

This sort of thing? https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

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Do what he said. Drop the oil. Look for go fast glitter. If you have a sump full of bits of metal/big end bearing you are up for a rebuild. You don't need to wait for the oil bypass to do this. You can do it now. If you have shiny metal bits in the oil and you have oil pressure back when you restart it then you have won.

Snobbery. By the way they made more AU's than any other model.

This is good advice. The only thing I would add is always use synthetic oil in a turbro.

Point shouldn't need to be made that the engineering in an AU is massively better than that in an F40, but there it is. So too the build quality. Still, pointing out the obvious may help someone out.

The colour code is in the middle of the vin plate. What colour is it in real life? KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic 732 - Black Pearl Metallic 326 - Crystal White BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order)

For what it is worth the Nismo 1.5 way I have is so fkn tight it may as well be a two way. Shits me to tears it does. Clunkety clunk clunk. It isn't just the ramp angle that is key here. The amount of preload on the clutch packs before you add the motors torque is also important. Get much of that and the diff will be an annoying clunkfest.

Nice. A 1980 Falcon based ESP? Good luck keeping the rust mites away and look after that interior! Oh and if you ever see and XE ESP with an EFI motor for sale please PM the crap out of me.

Thread needs more ESP pics.

It doesn't get launched very often, if at all. Not much interested in drags or hillclimbs. The Nismo clutch is good other than all that copper makes it feel sticky underfoot. Cost is not a huge issue but I don't think I really want to spend $5k on a clutch. Ill have a look at the Xtreme option. Thanks for the recommendation. I used to have a HKS twin plate which was pretty rattly but it had bugger all flywheel so got slipped a fair bit and hence worn out.

Maybe 500rwhp or thereabouts.

Which version of the drop ins do you have? A or B? Oh and good to see a dyno chart that is not a single and is on petrol. 👍

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement clutch for my R32 R. I currently have a Nismo twin plate (The super copper mix one) and it is, in short, horrible. Happy with the twin plates, happy with the lightened flywheel its just that the friction surface is sticky and horrible to slip It makes driving the car around town a chore. Output is 450rwhp only.

There lies a question. What does the catch can have inside by way of baffles/filters/flow restrictors etc etc to stop the puked oil getting out the breathers and just as importantly the accumulated oil sloshing around.

Without knowing exactly what they are it is difficult. However, try these people: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/?rf=kw&kw=2+pin+grey

Well, the blurb says: The Tomei forged piston kit for the legendary Nissan RB26DETT engine have been proven to withstand the highest level of performance in your tuned GTR engine. High quality forged pistons developed through years of Tomei tuning experience Valve Recessed version required for Tomei Camshafts with Lift greater than 10.8mm. Suitable for both RB26 and RB28 stroker kits Includes Piston Rings, Piston Pins and Circlips. So yes to the first question for a 2.6 litre rebuild. (Whether you want to do that is another question as better rods are relatively cheap.) If you want a stroker you need a crank and rods, obviously.