crooser

by the looks of that thing, you'll have no way of controlling boost levels. could be a potential disaster. go buy an adjustable bleed valve. same outcome, with adjustable boost.

get a little degreaser (diluted with water 10:1) into one of those spray bottles... give it a quick rub then wash it off... my black rear bar was all smudgy from fumes. no amount of washing took it off until i used the degreaser. it worked so well, i ended up putting a few capfulls into the carwash bucket and washing the whole car - for that serious all-over clean.

I was having that exact same 5000rpm+ flatspot. it was pretty bad. yesterday i swapped my afm for a mates to try. Bingo! fixed. feels like a new car... pulls harder than a schoolboy at girls camp. I'm pretty sure its just broken solder tracks in the old afm giving weird signals with strong airflow good on ya robo

just the speedo needs to be changed. the rest will work fine. but if you get a whole gauge cluster cheap enough, even easier. cheers

if you are changing to a 25det gearbox you will need the front half of the det tailshaft/spline setup. your current spline will be too small. this is an easy swap. also,make sure the new box has the mount with it. you will have to re-use the 25de engine mounts. another easy swap. you only need to change the speedo in the dash. nothing else. the NA wiring loom can stay. use a factory 25det ecu. your existing powersteer, A/C and alternator all stay fitting the cooler will be the only "custom" job (might as well go straight for a front mount) hope this will help some

on the passenger side of the igniter module you will find a wire loop. hook your light pickup thru this (you can even stretch it out to make a bit bigger loop). some timing guns will give 2 different readings depending on the orientation of the pickup. read it... then flip it over and read it again. The reading that is MOST RETARDED is the correct one. my $10 kmart gun gives me spot on readings... every time.

Oh Megs... you've done it again! Magoo Voice> Gotta love innovation...

sounds like a faulty dash dimmer switch/pot to me... i took mine (switch) out of the loop and havent had any probs in nearly 3 yrs since. give that a try before you go pullin' the dash to bits. cheers

the panel air filter is the same as a VL (rb30) commonwhore. about $100 for a K&N panel.

i have an almost identical problem which occurs at 4500 and dissappears at 6000. between 6 and 7k rpm the power comes back on hard. boost solenoid is plugged up. AFM has been cleaned. tested with another factory ecu played with base timing on the few times i have tested, if the car is hot and decent heatsoak has occured (eg stopped for 10min gettin fuel), it revs through without a problem. after another 10mins of normal driving though when things have cooled down a bit, problem is back again. the AFM might be reading too much (cool) air and overfueling to compensate. If you get a chance McRen, please test this in your car. cheers

does the power come back on after 6000-6500rpm?

is the fuse ok? is it actually connected? (mine was disconnected for a long time) check the plug and wiring for damage/bad connection cheers

yeah thats it. i'll be found getting out of a canberra cab i'm just down here for a few days before heading back to Qld. cheers

i'm not sure about other na 33s but the gts25 type s has a 4.3:1 viscous lsd

Hi guys/gals I'm down in Canberra working until tues at the medical centre at jamison. I have seen an r31 in the carpark with the old big SDU sticker on it there since yesterday... someone on here work at the complex? For a moment i thought it was Slip's ride...same color and all. seen a few 32 and 33 lines since yesterday too... all good cheers Matt

you mention that the problem only occured AFTER installing the ebc. i'd be looking to rule out a problem with that first. just a thought

oh yeah and make sure your engine is HOT for an acurate reading of your timing good luck

i use an elcheapo $15 kmart gun also... it reads fine. everytime. like i said, reverse the direction of the pickup on the loop (coil #1) and with most guns this will read 2 different values. the most retarded reading is the correct one. works on other 33s as well so i dont think there's any magic here cheers

hook onto the wire that is looped out from the rest on the igniter module. some timing guns read different depending on which direction the pickup is facing (the most retarded reading is the correct one) dont overtighten the 3 bolts on the CAS, the housing can crack pretty easily hope this helps

mine squeaked/creaked during a dry period. i tried spraying into the rubber boot hole with no luck. the next time it rained it and i drove the wet roads, the squeak and creak went away. i'm stuffed if i know where its drying out but i'm positive it aint internal. the last few days have been dry again and i can already feel it starting to creak again. i'm sure the squeak will follow again soon. bastid

changed mine last thurs after a blown bulb. went from Narva Arctic Blue to the Phillips Blue Vision. Both light up white with a small hint of blue but the Phillips bulbs are much more intense. Huge difference over standard bulbs. Recommended

reset it, you wont hurt it. could only get better.

Geez... $400 ? I think they is pullin ya pee pee with the "common problem" line. the in-tank float thingy is getting stuck by the sounds of it. If you need a replacement let me know. i have one here.

this could be worth a try.... with the trim off, from memory you will see 2 adjuster bolts at the top of the door at each end of the window. these can be loosened off and slid up and down to adjust angle etc. its possible one of these might have moved/dropped. you can usually see where the original factory position was due to scratches and marks on the paint. mark the current positions of the bolts before you start moving them so you can move them back if you need to. the side that drops down first when you start winding the window down is the side i would raise a tad.

if it only makes the noise when the door is closed, its prolly coz when the door close the window is forced outwards by the seals as it goes up. sounds like something is bent out of alignment or the window has dropped at one end. does one end of the window "drop" first when you start to wind it down from the closed position with the door closed? one of these days i will fix my own drivers side window - hadnt worked for about 8mths. funny how you get used to things