rtune

which thickness? thanks

So the greddy 115mm intercooler requires hacking into the REO bar to fit, in an R34 GTR. Does the 105mm ARC intercooler fit without cutting? or what is the best intercooler that does fit? secondly, does nissan australia sell stock REO bars, in case I cut ,then want to return to stock?

sh!t in more ways than just when the road is damp or wet?

I had PS2s on an audi and liked them. But the Cups are something else again, they are basically a road legal slick. Absolutely impossible in the wet. They were standard fitment on the M3 CSL and scared the bejeesus out of drivers who thought a bit of rain would be ok.. I read they are popular with porsche cup drivers on track days. I'm not really in doubt over their track performance, just wondering if they'd been tried and rejected by other skyline drivers for one reason or another.

Would it be a mistake to fit pilot sport cup tires to my skyline that is only a fair weather and occasional driver training / casual track day car? A mistake as in .. not worth the bucks, too noisy on the road, wear too fast vs the next best semi-slick? I have potenza RE01-R now, which were decent, but are nearing the end of their life. (Getting new tires sourced in australia even average ones are expensive but I can get a set of 265 pilot sport cups via fedex for about $1600).

Your excel graph is very interesting and exactly what I would have done. But it does point out one thing to me: equal boost for boost, 2860-5s seems a toss up when you lose mid range and don't get more than you lost back on top. In other words, losing 30kw at 4000rpm and gaining 30kw at 8000 rpm doesn't seem like a fair trade to me (figures are just guesses). If someone can give me +30kw, I'd ask for it at 4000rpm, not 8000rpm.. Of course if you ran higher boost then you would still lose the same at 4000, but gain twice what you lost, up top.. That is where the larger turbo really stretches its legs.

Can you elaborate. You fitted a high flow cat (which one?), and result bumped to 311kw from the result where it hit the wall. no other changes, same dyno, rough tune, give or take?

what's the question? the aero billet controller would work fine I think but is an expensive thing vs the jaycar kit.. not sure it can ramp two pumps though..

there is a really NICE looking evo 8mr for sale on SAU. White. If I had a 3 car garage I'd have got it. No lard there. Quicker than an R34 I think.

No the corner weighting just adjusts things so you've roughly equal weight left to right with driver seated, and it does so by lowering or raising each corner a bit, as far as I know you have to have an opinion on ride height, and then if camber and so on is adjustable, that is done with that ride height set.. damper both bump and rebound is a black art good luck with any excursion away from recommended settings. First question is: for what road surface do you want to optimize? the first corner outside your house? or a favorite track? on the whole though I think for a more compliant ride, everything (bump, rebound on all four corners) all goes the same amount in the same direction from default. And the opposite for a harder ride. And if you run out of clicks, spring rates can be modified (by buying new springs).

What happened to the met forecast? I think they change their mind each day! "Sunday Windy with showers Min: 16°C Max: 21°C"

The N1 block is stronger, but how often do you see people cracking the normal block? seems to me like people break everything else before they crack the stock block. So an N1 is nice, but can be had - if you must have it - for less than the price a couple of other bolt ons .. And a buyer of an N1 block, well, he'll probably want to rebuild the engine with forged bits anyway and thus leapfrog the balanced nur N1 pistons (which are still cast, not forged). The N1 manifolds, N1 dumps and N1 turbos are better than stock manifolds (with the on-purpose restriction) stock dumps and stock ceramics, but nothing interesting happens until an upgrade is done to GT-SS or better, custom dumps, and so on ... and by then you've got rid of all the bits that made the "N1" special. I think anyone given a choice would rather have GT-SS than N1s. Sorry I may have left out some other "N1" component, but you get the picture, I think? one thing though if you want to enter some kind of rally or race class that requires stock items then your N1 bits are going to be accepted.. and the 2.8 stroker with the fancy pistons manifold, turbos and injectors is not qualified..

talked to them again and got a bit more specific of a picture: the ross damper runs three belts, the inner one runs fine (to the alternator) however the two outer ones, despite driving no load, starting jumping at 6500+ rpm they claim those 2 belts are properly tensioned, and aligned. Since they were the original belts and the power steering and a/c haven't been moved, and the ross is supposed to be the same diameter as the stock balancer, why would they now be freaking out.. I often seem to strike problems with my car in workshops that when described, don't make sense to anyone else anyway they're gonna finish the tune then play more with belts tomorrow, so I'll post if a solution is found. I'm glad femno says he had no issue with the Ross I can raise that with them.

the thing that put me off immediately on the mines car is "Odometer 14800" yeah, right. For a 1999 r34, 9 years old.

to answer specifically belts are original nissan and have not been changed are good but not great condition. tightness and alignment was checked. was told they were burning on dyno, slipping too much and they couldn't, yet, solve it. whether it was just ps or ps and ac (if on) I don't know.. that's all I know in addition to what I already described..

I'm not sure if they tried new ones, and if they did I'm sure they tried nissan but the problem first showed up with the ones that were one it - which were fine with the stock balancer .. Ross was called and they said "yeah that happens", but I don't know why it would if nothing is getting over-driven or over-revved. They take a week to get under-driven pulleys to me. the motor has a lot more get up and go now and the 2wd mainline dyno ramp-rate had to be turned up as the rear tires were heating up too much .. so obviously that meant revs climbing faster than previous runs, before the bolt-ons. Yeah i can drive without a/c -- but not p/s and it was slipping both with the ross balancer over 6000. I asked to source a 2nd hand stock balancer but the concern is hours of R&R work to find it still happens.. hence my question here. but I've done a bunch of searching and I don't see a similar problem posted, apart from cold-start squeals, so maybe this is a Ross balancer issue?

Tuner has struck a problem with my p/s and a/c belts, they slip (burn) on the dyno above 6k. Problem started with a Ross balancer which replaced a cracked stock balancer. We're not talking more than 8k here, so I'm confused. Belts have been inspected for tightness and possible grease and all that. Our option now is to get a 2nd hand stock balancer and try that, only to find the same issue?, or to give me back the car with a 6k rev limit while ross get some under-drive pulleys. What could be the cause of this? the mods make a good deal more poke but not 400kw territory so why would the ross balancer slip them? it is same size as stock.. hence the concern stock might do it too .. any ideas? what are we missing? thanks.

in these situations you have to ask.. what changed. From your description the only thing that changed was tune and possibly cam gears. therefore unless (by sheer coincidence) your car developed a new problem right when the tuner had it, it must be the tune. Did you get full dyno graphs before vs after including one showing AFR? And btw your original power and consumption was very good for the mods you have, so I wonder what you were looking for in going PFC.

Does anyone know what the stock ECU uses to drive the FPCM signals? Is it AFM voltage? Second, and related question .. sard, tomei etc all make fuel pump relay harnesses that connect the fuel pump direct to the battery. At what point does the stock FPCM become a problem, and exactly why? Wouldn't bypassing the voltage modulation of the fpcm create the "boiling fuel" problem which could, in traffic, be really nasty? thanks

If that is the case let me be the first one to offer you in writing the opportunity to sell your car to me when you are bored, for the princely sum of $10,000 dollars. I'll even put down a 20% deposit to confirm. sorry just joking but of course you care how much you can sell it for in future, just like you worked out how much it was worth when you bought it.

well the zr1 base msrp is ~$110k however the R35 v-spec which appears to be barely quicker than the R35 is +$50k over the ZR1! But yeah I get what you mean, the zr1 is an american exotic, for sure. But the first v-spec R35 appears to be just price gouging.

I'd love a ride in the ZR1 after seeing it on top gear when they did that trip to the salt flats.. the shove at any RPM was completely visible. His seat practically bent 6 inches.. as clarkson said, ludicrous and unexpected .. I have a feeling it is more ludicrous than a stock R35, and a tuned R34.

I went through this thought exercise a while ago and this was my conclusion a) if you modify the nur in a way that is irreversible, you are $20k+ in a hole right at the outset due to loss in resale value, and have almost no advantage over the cheaper v-spec ii except for your N1 block which can be had for $3k if required. Even if you keep all the stock items the modification will be detectable (it will damage the car slightly) PLUS you gotta pay $2k+ to reverse them at sale time, sell all your parts at a loss. etc. And every change makes your car more of a pain to drive around town. b) you'll be told by tuners that to make the car competitive on anything but the long tracks you need weight reduction, roll cage, and so on. Without a roll cage, you may bend the chassis if you run around on slicks. Look at the motorsport forum to see the lengths required to make an R34 competitive on shorter tracks, time attacks and so on. Even a track R32 is a major project. c) if you shoot for a stock looking street/track car and don't have any illusions about domination on a track, and don't mind seeing your Nur being damaged somewhat plus possible drive train or engine damage.. (and therefore resale).. then how about just shoot for 1.4bar, a fat exhaust, good intake, hard pipes, cam gears, a sports radiator and oil cooler and an ecu, and any remaining dollars on rims, coilovers, anti roll bars and make it nismo parts if possible. That gives you the "thrill" of spending sub $20k including labor and you've get 300 awkw not that much lag AND you might find a buyer one day who regards these changes as not ruining the nur, and anyway they are certainly reversible with almost no sign they were there (unless you start posting about your times and so on). honestly though you'd be better off trading from a nur to a stock R34, then using that cash to build up the R34. Or trading directly from a nur to a built R34 (just as cheap as a stock one) and "adjusting" the build to suit your aims.. Or trade from a nur to a stock R34, then buy a dedicated track car. Or sell the nur and buy an Exige, put some money into the engine and dominate everything. Or sell the nur and buy an Evo 8, put more money into it and dominate most things.

Could you tune an R34, without going rb30, to give similar or better braking/handling/accelerative rush to a vette ZR1 ? some stats on the ZR1: curb weight: 1528kg 0-60mph: 3.3 seconds quarter mile: 11.2 seconds and 130mph hp at crank: 620 top speed: 205mph carbon ceramic brakes, rear wheel drive of course.. ridiculous wide torque curve from 2000 rpm to 7000 rpm.. (I realize a drag r34 can out drag it, a top secret r34 could out top speed it, and a track r32 could out handle it..)

I have a spec R dual solenoid for sale if you want it (PM me). From what I understood when I researched them, it works the best. The latest Blitz with the las vegas display is too bling.