rtune

nobody appreciates the latest hks fcon vpro? with the hks knock amp, map selector .. can control sprayers, retard with knock. tuner says it is set and forget as it can be setup closed loop with O2 and A/F sensors .. and 3.3 can now control the hks v-cam directly, so no need for another box if you get that. Hook up hks icamp to a screen and there isn't a stat that is unknown in realtime. yeah ok so it is a little pricey but not as much as the motec yet with key features that make the motec cool. And a proper gtr harness plus you keep your stock ecu in the loop if not actually doing much.

Ok after some searching... it seems that having a better flowing exhaust with less back pressure than stock can mean the wastegate flapper no longer opens enough, or fast enough.. problem seen first at high psi, and high revs. So the solution is either add back back-pressure (undesirable), or widen (grind out) the wastegate ports and increase size of poppet covers.. (or buy bigger turbos that are designed for that much flow in the first place). I think I'll stay below 19psi instead !

stock r34 gtr bov, stock N1 actuators but how does bov get involved with over-boost. Doesn't bov come into play when throttle slams shut?

my ebc can control boost under all situations when dialed at 19psi, but at 22psi I can get runaway overboost (to 26psi+) under certain ramp, load and gear .. not always, but sometimes. Should I try a different EBC.. or is the most likely cause insufficient wastegate diameter (split dumps), or inadequate actuator - unable to dump boost fast enough when it hits target?

well I put 80kmh because that is supposedly when hicas starts to operate in high speed mode: it'll initially turn the rears opposite, to improve corner turn-in.. if you imagine the tail is stepping out, so to catch it, a natural reaction is to catch it with opposite lock, and then that happens .. shades of a losing a rear engine 911 at speed. did nissan design for no power-on over steer, making the situation really difficult to get into so you just resist the urge, and always steer always where you wanna go?

As bling go, they are one of the most satisfying mods. Lose the folding option, but no more big ears!

I recently returned from 3000 kms in my car. All the tanks were bp ultimate, and I have the hks knock amp with display. No matter how I hammered it, right up to 23psi, no knock.. on the way back home today @ goulburn couldn't see BP so went into a caltex and got vortex. On the hume highway boosting in 5th gear, but only half max boost, I got a knock reading. It was reproducible, so after that I limped the rest of the way home being careful.. this is with a nismo ecu, not power-fc, ecu expects japanese 100 octane, and retards with knock. bp ultimate, it didn't knock even with intake temps at 45 degrees and 22 psi. this wasn't a small servo. Could they be selling pulp as vortex 98?

Is grabbing some opposite lock above 80kmh to catch oversteer highly inadvisable without first removing or disabling hicas ?

I had a blast yesterday driving from the ferry through derby, and down to bicheno. A blast. the car woke up like it had been asleep for years. Narrowly missed collecting an idiot harley rider as a hood ornament, he was overtaking his buddies, on a blind bend coming down weldborough .. One problem though: I collected a tank of 98 at scottsdale and since then haven't seen a decent servo. Where oh where can I get more 98 ?

I see a second hand one in pretty poor shape listed at 90,000 yen about to close. so after fees and expenses that is pretty close to $2000 aud. and, this screen is the "real" mfd, as in, if you have a busted screen, it is this screen that is busted. Just in case people think this is an inferior non oem substitute..

As far as I know nissan do not sell the screen. They sell the entire MFD for mucho $$$s only. the MFD is plastic surround and cage and buttons, the MFD circuit board with its various sensor inputs and the toshiba screen.. this is just the screen.

sold! to the man with too many rims. if anyone else wants one, PM me, I have several -- if you are quick. (I also listed them on yahoo.co.jp).

If you have a problem with your MFD LCD screen (busted scan lines, bad backlight, bad pixels), then replace it with this fresh new one. I've done it. I can verify that replacing it with this panel works great. Requires removal of MFD, and careful dis-assembly of MFD, connect two ribbon cables, and re-assembly. Takes just 10 minutes and a screwdriver. $200 plus $9.99 shipping bubble wrapped in anti-static foam.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/112072-fs-os-gi...al-mission.html

never mind I found what I (and they) are missing: a 17mm lug extension adapter.. http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo-350z-al...cPath=7739& edit: nope, that isn't the problem. The problem appears to be unique for me.. whomever installed these lmgt4s put back on the original nuts, instead of rays 17mm nuts, using a magical tool that was so slimline, it fits in the holes now I have to find that tool again before I can remove my wheels!

the local spanner can't remove my nuts, either with his sockets or with the stock tool that came in the trunk .. neither will insert deeply enough into the hole around the nut to grab more than the first mm of it.. in other words, there isn't enough space around the nut to put the socket over it.. these are lmgt4 and the nuts are black anodized. What is this? some kind of funky anti-theft system?? is this one of those comes-from-nowhere problems we all get, or is nothing simple?

of course but just an example. could also be a blocked nozzle, a split line, a failed pump or failed controller.. it probably won't happen but a good system will have some failsafe mode.

a) yes, although you need to pay for a re-tune. Then you run the risk of blowing up your motor if the pump fails at high boost, or you run out of meth. b) you can do a search, c) as far as I know, parts (nozzles, tubing, pumps, etc) come from dealers in the states - for example, via ebay, you'll see lots of listings. d) the pump is also expensive.

nevertheless what I posted was correct. his dyno result is right on the money. you just reposted it in about 1000 more words.

there is no longer one, I think. I had to talk to a guy in the states. but if you call several tuners you will probably find one or two that are familiar with where to get the necessary bits.

bump and price drop $1040

stock r34 gtt (neo) is 145kw at the wheels, which is 194bhp so your result is right on the money. See: http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm

To say nothing of the meth injection as well. on gtr.co.uk someone took a car (probably crank hp dyno) on N1s from 460 to 620 on water/meth, without changing a thing just the tune. at least that is what they posted, but it is quite plausible.

that looks good! thanks, I'll try that on the way down.. if my choice turned into a dirt logging track i woulda cried. (for google maps you gotta hit the share/link button and copy-paste the link displayed in the pop-up)

i think you linked my original one again? .. but I'd be very interested to see yours.