Craved

water temp guage oil will still lubricate even when really hot, and on the street usually will never get very hot at all.. water temp is more important

i know the stuff you are talking about... looks exactly like sikaflex, but doesn't bond at all. just a black goo . if the factory uses sikaflex, and you do this with enough applied you wont need to do it again.

looks good, was it always there? what was in that position before? definately maks it easier if its that simple.

there is an oil pressure hole on the std cooler? since the std oil pressure switch/sender is behind the oil filter location, didnt think it would have one somewhere else. havent had a close look at the oil/water coolers on the rb25s.

pretty sure that clockwise is advance, and anticlockwise is retard . usually they are about in the middle of the adjustment area.

in - feed from the intercooler pipe or plenum out - goes to actuator -------- feed hole on the controller unit comes from the plenum. i didn't get the teflon connector listed there in my kit, so i used silicon hose over the 2 hoses and clamped with a small cable tie.

umm for the housing to hit the cam cover, it must be a highmount.

i have removed them myself before. hairdryer will do it, but for $28 at bunnings you can get a heat gun.. just undo the bolts, then evenly apply heat to the seal area, while GENTLY BUT FIRMLY applying force on the tail light from within the boot.. it will slowly move out, it will be like cheese on a pizza, so be careful not to let the stringy bits touch the paint anywhere. use the heat gun to heat up the seal after the light is out, then remove with a old screw driver os something. clean the left overs off the car body with turps and paper towel. (lots of paper towel) then re apply new Sikaflex to the lights and reinstall them in std location. doing nuts up tight. all should be done.

plenty of guys in the RB30DET thread are using the RB30e STOCK bottom end with some having over 200,000 kms on the clock making up to and over 300 rwkw .... so yeah i doubt the rebuild would be neccessary if his current motor is in good condition.. making that sort of power with the SOHC would be more difficult so i'd say the turbo will bolt on fine. but yeah, anyway

check the nissan black elbows going through the body under airbox/filter . they split pretty easy.

4" to 80mm reducer will do you fine if you want more than 300rwkw then go Q45 if not, just use a restrictor. Z32 AFM is good for more than 300rwkw

if its made for the std turbo then yes, if not no. sheesh you have to look at weather its a full front pipe or a dump pipe only... gives us some information to work with atleast.

what intercoole do you have? lets start with what you do have then work from there!! im pissed and i cant still think of plenty of ways to do this!

i have found the combo of RB74 pads with the DBA4000 (mine have the slots machined off) are a good compromise and can deal with a 20 minute session at wakefield without issue. only thing is that wakefield isn't a brake heavy kinda track, so will see at a higher speed track one day. and yeah, sorry about that R dirty 3

std turbos on skylines are garret water cooled turbos.

isn't knife edging only for N/A revvy engines ?? to reduce the rotating mass?

only thing i've seen and confirmed is the addition of the JUN style crank collar from JUN or proengines to allow the fitment of the r33 rb26 sized oil pump

try tracing the wires up from the bumper into the loom behind the drivers side rear lights, make sure tey are plugged in correctly.

Thats my car in that pic i used 14 hi bright red LEDs run in series with a resister, then they are tapped into the brake light feed from the rear lights for power i tried a neon first, wasn't bright enough and didn't fit in there very nicely.; it was a S1 clear panel, that was sprayed the cars colour, then sanded off the paint from the letters.

try here http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html link fixed

clutch fluid is brake fluid.. so id say something like RBF 600 brake fluid.. DOT 5 and shouldn't change with heat.

have a look here Sidd http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=112729&hl=

top Idea SK .. cheers mate

yes get a 3.5" or 4" metalcat or similar.

i was under the impression that these are the same calipers anyway.