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Craved

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Everything posted by Craved

  1. i bought the hitachi mega pack last week. good kit and includes that rattle gun, just havent used it yet
  2. over in Penrith mate - so not too far i'll go have a chat to them about it - you'll need to line up a painter to repaint it after the welding too
  3. thats a bit crazy - is the car drivable? or you after someone mobile to do it? only tricky part of this is getting the stubs of the rivets back out of the frame. i'd bring it to "the metalist" next door to my shop, you can save cash if you drill out all the rivets too.
  4. got the full kit back, just need to finish coating the rear suspension arms and get new bushes then i'll fit it up for the line measurements and post pics. then strip them down for coating while the lines are being made
  5. there is about $190 in those 3 tools - given the crimps they make its worth it - just doesnt help with most "audio" style gold plated fittings
  6. running Dynamat on the rear seat area will cost you just under 1 box of the 36 sqft bulk packs. i have 2 sheets left from my box after doing the whole rear seat area and the external 1/4 panels either side of the passenger seat. just incase someone was considering it.
  7. been doing alot of wiring lately so these 3 new tools have been the ultimate in making it go fast and neat. left : Narva non insulated connector crimpers centre: Kincrome insulated wire crimpers right : kincrome automatic wire strippers worth their weight in gold
  8. KL0 is also used on the r33 S1
  9. like alumi-brite? basically a sulfuric acid solution ?
  10. haha - be a long time until that happens
  11. hahaha fair enough well its either soda or glass bead - as no garnet/crushed glass/oxide based blasting media will give that shine you've given me enough hints so i should work the rest out myself cheers Ariel. Chris
  12. hey Ariel - what do you do to the cast alloy bits before welding in terms of prep? - I always find alot of impurities coming out of casts when welding.
  13. or do it the other way, leave the parkers and redrill for the amber lights in the parker housing having the parker and indicator on at the same time shouldnt cause an issues
  14. buy a pair of r33 gtst seats for the rails - usually cheap to buy the pair and then cut them up to adapt to your seats
  15. those RB runners are alot different to each other
  16. was that one of the magnesium cam covers?
  17. looks as long as the driveway is wide too - crazy!!!
  18. what size tyres are you running though hamish?
  19. Dave - im running 17x9 +22 all round, only just hits the stock guards unrolled with 245 tyres running the +22 @ 10.5 would sit them 18.5 mm out from the inner lip edge - you should be able to fit them no problem with rolled guards
  20. if it doesnt work for you i have a couple of candies that are close in powdercoat i.e.
  21. nice collector - what angle did you use for it?
  22. yeah i use JNT for donuts, cones, bellmouths also
  23. on the one i used i went with the std guides but ran the degrees off an external angle finder. cold saw would normally be better, but anything can be used if you spend the time to set it up- ie most cheap drop saws will work once you get them cutting square
  24. i use a small bandsaw Norm
  25. all good Scooby, im really keen to see how it works too - but it cant be far now, and no real point swapping anything over til the rears are finished i'll get a price on the alloy hat for the rears for everyone also, though it seems that the added cooling on the rear might make any rear bias issues worse, but might lend to a cheaper pad choice
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