Nismo 3.2ish

I thought I was finished with it, haha Thought the exhaust was OK, I did not just do the motor, did a job on the drive train, C Spec coppermix twin clutch , Quaif front diff, modified the trannie and have a Nismo 2-way LSD on the back and that all works a treat , add the AD08Rs and all good

What sort of $$$$$s would I need to do the exhaust properly ? What would be the best system?

No Mate , the exhaust was done before I made my mind up to do the build. But as you can see they did step the exhaust down to fit the cat? I am not sure if the cat has its internals ?? If I do something with the exhaust I will make sure it is done properly. I will get as much info as I can before anything is done.

Trying to keep it legal, well as I can, I do not know where I want to stop with the mods Why would 5" be better, do you mean run a complete exhaust system, just spent $2500 on the one I have, haha

I will need to have it checked to be sure

he was talking about the back pressure and said I should have a 3.5" exhaust , I told him he had me put a 3.5" long before the build, then said maybe a 4" would be better? I do not think they take any notice what they are doing or what they have done at times , I guess when you work on heaps of cars you forget, not hard to have a quick look to see what is holding up the flow and offer an alternative.what if the cat is not intact . If it is not , would it make any difference to change it ? I will ask about the Venom and do something about it before I take it to Sydney if it is going to help..

Thanks for the info mate ,Paul was saying the 3" cat would cause a problem with the flow. Here is a pic of the other side of the cat

It is 3.5" exhaust, but it is on a 3" cat I think and stepped up to take the 3.5" exhaust So I guess I need a bigger cat or ?

It is unfortunate that some blokes knew my builder, I never mentioned them and wish it would have staid like that,but ? Jez is not involved in this situation, some blokes have said he is an option for future work because I asked some time back for a shop that is closer to the mid North Coast, Gosford is about 1 1/4 Hrs easier both ways, he has never been contacted by me , I have not contacted anyone else, I have my builder.. The car is going back to the builder and I am sure they will do the right thing, by now they will be wishing me to the shit house, after the situation has been rectified I doubt if we will do any new business again, I am finished with modifying cars ! A full racing head might be the go, how about a different turbo, bigger brakes, seen a nice shinny radiator, hahaha It is all good and will be worked out soon

OK, if you have something that works perfectly well and your car goes in for some work , they pull your part out and re install it and it comes back and it is stuffed, you just say shit happens,stick your hand in your pocket without question, I do not understand your logic ? And I do know shit happens at times , some times it just does not stop , haha

I agree but swap shoes and see how philosophical you are then. After paying to have job done , one expects it to be done properly by the experts and not to be given your car back worse than when it went in., the problems were all noticeable from the first trip home. Things can be f**ked if you are not careful how you re install them and I am not saying this is the case, but you say to your customer, sorry mate your starter motor started playing up, do you want it fixed or a new one installed. You do not just leave it like that. Yes shit happens and I am sure it will be fixed, but 7 months and still farking around with it, it just drains you, could be because I am an old fart and not as easy to get along with Just the way the car feels now I can feel it will be awesome when it is sorted

I have other things that have to be fix before I go anywhere else. I also have to give them a chance to rectify the problems. Struggling with the Torque starter motor bit , my starter motor has no trouble turning and starting the motor, it just stays engaged for a split second after it starts the motor since the build, before that it was fine ?

It is tuned only for 98 pump but as I said it is better from a remote tune than the Dyno job ???

All of the above, it is crazy to let the car go out the door like this. So I hope it can be sorted so everyone is happy, especially me

Yeah, I know what you mean, but the idea of the remote tune was to tune it a bit more to the lean side to stop the fouling. and by the way it is running now I think he has done that, well I hope He was happy with the result and has no trouble with me driving the car but I will not be doing much before it goes in for the retune

he had to use the password to get into the ECU, I will have it removed after the final fix, no problem

I am happy where my power is and it will only get better. If you drove my car this morning and changed gears just before 7000rpm, you would have loved it, well I did Once it is sorted it will be just what I wanted Now that is some positive thinking,haha

he did a remote tune this morning and it is running much better, you can feel it, there is not much chance of making it worse,but?

Hi Mick This is what I mean, I might not know about modifying cars but I know if something is working OK and doing the job, you do not need to crank it up to do the same job, just fix it

as long as it is running down hill

you cruel goes better to 6500rpm now and I challenge the whale for a quick run , TOMORROW! hehe It is a minor hiccup that wont stop, hic hic hic hic hic , see what I mean, hic etc hic Yes had a red , hic

Lower compression, thought it was the same, maybe a little different with the lager capacity ? Maybe because I suggested they did not install the starter motor properly after the build. It was OK before then ? I love it when people say it was OK when we tried it , but the problems are there the first time you drive it out of the shop , farking black magic

Had a remote tune this morning to see if they could get it a little leaner to stop the plugs fouling up and it seems to have more response in Boost off, low and higher boost levels. But still went tits up around 7000rpm. But my question is, when I got my car back from the build the starter motor sounded like it was still engaged after I let the key go, screach! thought it was me at first , but not after that, after all the different cars I have started I should know when to let the key go When I first told the builder about this they said maybe it should have had some lub on the shaft , then, it might be a mismatch with the new parts with the shaft ?? Now they said I need a new Hi Torque starter motor to go in, the old starter motor has no problem turning the motor over and starting the car, it just seems to stay engaged after it starts for a split second. I just want them to fix it as it was before the build? Anyone had any experience with something like this ??????????

I should have bought your car from the get go, would have saved me a shit load of money and hassle , haha

Yes I was trying to get response and from what I had, it is pretty good. It is very linear as it goes from idle to 6500rpm, well that was the highest I could go on the revs before it played up. But when I first came home I did get the chance to give it a launch from 5000rpm and there was a little 4W spin and no lag, so I guess you can say it has pretty good response. To get near that before I was going from 7500+ rpm and it would still dig in a bit Have no idea about your comparisons , I am sure there will be some blokes that could answer your question