wrxhoon

Same as standard spec 0.42-.048 for intake 0.35-0.41 for exhaust

If you cant find one take it to anyone that has a tig and get them to weld it for you . Dont trust any sealant . Yea we live and learn!!!

Postage to melbourne would be about $20 .

Its exactly the same battery as the odyssey 1200 ( odyssey say 1200 cca but thats not true , they are 1200 c.a not cca ) Go to the odyssey website and look at the 1200 cca . Thre is some pics and a comparo with the 800 ca odysey , i dont have a 1200 here to compare it with .

You can get them from Nissan but they are about $70 each . Go to any auto shop and get a universal boot kit , about $12 -15 each , they have the molly grease with the kit . You dont have to remove the driveshafts from the car to replace them .

The r33 has a hydrolic clutch not cable . You will find that you may have a leaking slave cilinder ( if as you say you have fluid near the g/box ). look on the bellhousing , there is a little cilinder , when you push the clutch pedal the shaft pops out ,if it leaks from there thats your problem .

Yes that was the price in 1996 in japan , add to that any options fitted , like abs sunroof and whatever + 5 % consumption tax in Japan then add rego costs . If you were to bring the car to australia you would -5% jap tax , add 15 % import duty + shipping to australia + 10 5 gst , then the price would be somewhere in the $50 - 60 k i would think . 1996 gtr series 2 was under 5 mil jpy , thats only around $63000 aud , if that was the selling price in aus in 1996 Nissan could sell as many as they could make !!!

Still looking

Still looking

You are not having much luck ! Just weld the cracked one , its fairly easy to do .

I have both a gtr ( r33 ) and an sti (02 ) and have owned several more wrx's and i have an r34 gtr m-spec waiting for a ship in Osaka . The 2 cars you are looking at , are totaly different cars , you are looking at a wrx sti ( new $60 k ) and a R34 gtr ( if it was sold here new it would be $120K + ) You can't realy compare the 2 cars , you may want to compare the sti with an evo ( same price bracket ) . So its your budget and taste in what you want to buy , personaly i like them both . As to which one is quicker well in stock form there is not much in it maybe 1-2 tenths of a second in 1/4 mile times in favour of the gtr . As for claimed power ( remember claimed power by the makers ) sti 195 kw ( aussie spec ) gtr 206 kw 9 Gtr has more like 230-240 kw . Weight , again not much in it now that the rexy has put on the beef ( the six speeder is now close to 100 kg the old 5 speed was only 50 ) sti around 1450 kg and gtr 1550 kg . When it comes to driving the 2 cars on the road ( stock ) the gtr feels more lively has more power down low and you can pot around off boost easy , no need to change down as much as sti , sti seems to have a narrow power band . Now if you want to get them going a bit quicker again the gtr is easy to get moded . My r33 gtr has the factory stock n1 turbos , ebc ( 1.2 bar boost ) and a tuned power f/c everything else is stock including stock airbox . It has run 11.7 1/4 @wsid @121 mph , try that in the sti !!! To give you an indication we had a 00 sti ( much lighter than 02 at around 1250 kg) with a vf34 turbo , tuned power f/c and ebc 1.2 bar boost everything else stock and it was good for 12.6 @ 111 mph . As for handling in stock form the gtr feels more firm on the road ( much less body roll ) and more neutral feel going around corners . It will outhanle the rex everywhere but in very tight corners , gtr is much bigger car . The sti will go very quick as well but with much more bodyroll and understeer . Now to your arguement , why pay 80k for r34 when you get an sti for 60 , why not buy a wrx ( not sti ) new for 42 k and put in a 2.5 engine from the states and make it as quick or quicker than the sti ? Its your choice you could even go for the falcon turbo , you can get one for low 30's ( second hand ) or at the other end maybe a porsche or even an m3, its your budget and your taste , i like all high performance cars . Both cars are durable if well maintaned and kept in stock form and yes the 6 speed box in the post 02 sti's is much stronger that the old 5 speeder . I have seen plenty 5 speeders bust 2nd gear but i havent busted one myself in all the rexes i have owned , maybe i drive them to easy i dont know but i'm not scared to drop the clutch at say 7000 rpm in either the rex or the gtr .

Cold , intake 0.42-0.48 and exhaust 0.35-0.41 mm i would go on the higher side so you dont burn any valves and put up with the a bit of noise .

It will make it quiter but it wont stop the droning . To stop that you will have to look at the design of the rear mufler and tip .

A while ago i did a group buy on sealed batteries . Some people have been asking me if i can get them again . I made some enquiries and depending on interest i can get them but the price is slightly higher $ 140 each . These batteries are totaly sealed and they are a copy of the oddessy 1200 but without the steel casing . Anyone interested in a battery ( its a must to have a sealed battery if its the boot , like the 33's and 34 gtrs ) let me know and if i get at least 5 people i'll get then . Pick up in Sydney .

You know you dont have to go to nissan for a thermostat don't you ? You can buy them at any auto shop , just buy one with a temp the same as yours or if you like slightly lower , say 80deg . The correct way of testing would be to have a thermometer in the water so you know at what temp it opens . When you say it opened at boiling water temp , how much did it open ? fullly open it should be around 10 mm , not just cracked open . Anyway they are cheap so just replaced since yoy have it out . As for the bolt you snapped you will need to drill in the centre of the bolt and use an easyout to remove it , next time dont be so agro with bolts , the snap !!! If you are not experienced doing bolts up use this rule : do it normaly with whatever , socket spanner ... then get a ringy open end spanner ( have you noticed how they are small for the small sizes and they get bigger as the size goes up ? ) now if you use that spanner do it fairly tight , without busting your finger !!!

Nismo , igor has a point when he says that when thermostats play up they usualy stay open all the time , not closed . Thats not always the case ( obviously not in your car if its stuffed ) some times they wont open up or they open at much higher temp . Of course the radiator could be blocked , the fan not working and a lot of other things but you have to eliminate the possible causes one by one and the thermostat is easy for you check so do that first . You cant tell by puting your hand on the hose how hot it is , the bottom hose is always going to be cooler than the top .

Sure you can but its ilegal to let the gas go in the air you have to retrieve it .

I always remove the air cond pump first tie it on the rail or somewhere there before i remove the engine , this way you dont have to let the gas go .

The goldish colour is the colour of the nur spec cars and N1 's , the reminder should be red .

Try this, http://www.rabbit.ne.jp/ or this http://www.gtnet.co.jp/home/menu.html But they are not cheap , the auctions are much cheaper .

Yes you do depending on cost , it comes in at above $56 k but you only pay on the sum above that not on the whole cost .

Its hard to see the fan spinning faster but you can tell by the sound , it sounds different when its under load . Another way of testing it , try blocking the radiator front ( cardboard will do ) , when the engine is hot if the fan operates as it should , when you rev the engine ( say 3-5000) you will see the radiator geting sucked in a little , that won't happen if the engine is cold . To me it sounds like you have a crook thermostat ( but its only a guess ). If you overfill the plastic coolant reservoir it will always overflow , even if everything is working well .

How is the gtr going Kris ? Mine is still locked up in the garage in Osaka , waiting for a ship and colecting dust .

The main radiator fan is attached to the water pump housing and its a clutch fan , it only hooks up when the engine gets to operating temp ( DON'T try to hold it while the engine is going ). When you say it works , how do you know ? Its always going to be free spinning , you have to make sure it hooks up when the engine is hot .If you rev the engine when cold it will free spin , do it when the engine is hot and it will make a different soundand blow ( suck towards the engine ) a lot more air . This overheating did it just apear or has it been happening for a while and it just got worse? when do you hear the belt squiek ? It doesn't matter that you didn't remove the plug on the block to drain old coolant out . The reason you do it is to get rid of most of the old coolant , the way you went about it you left water in the block . Next time you change coolant undo that plug , ignition on climate control to max ( hot )and either undo the bottom radiator hose or open the radiator plug , then flush with hose , leave it until most water comes out , do everything up then fill with redy mixed coolant ( buy ready mixed its easier and about the same price , i use 33% but you can use 50% if you like ). If when you pull the thermostat out it works ok , you may want to buy a lower temp thermostat ( the temp should be on it ) . Its normal for the coolant to come up when you are reving the engine , as long as it doesn't shoot up .

Import duty is only 10% as of 1st january 2005 and reduces to 5% 1st jan 2010. +gst 10 % as for the state stamp duty i think it varies a little from state to state . In nsw its 3% up to around $50k and from then on its 5% . Stamp duty you will pay the same regardless , even if buy a car registered localy thats why i didnt mention above .