wrxhoon

Spiggot bearing ? is it a skyline ? They have a bush don't they ? At least the ones i have pulled out have , same with the 200 sx 's . Yea it could be the synchro but could be lots of other things as well . Noony you say that it crunches even double clutching , you must be doing something wrong then . As Duncan suggests try matching the revs with the speed of the car for the gear you are trying to select while you are doubleclutching , if you do that it will just drop in . The synchros have made everyone lazy but they have their limitations too . Don't forget most truck g/boxes don't have synchros , try going through 18 gears without synchros , its easy cause they are very close ratio . Most truckies don't even use the clutch once they take off . You can jump in to a new car and you may not be able to select a low gear' if you are going to fast and if you do manage to get it in say 1rst while you are doing 100 kmh and let the clutch out you are going to bust something for sure . Did you notice geting harder after you changed the oil ? Gear oil can make a lot of difference . A simple way to check if your clutch is working . Stop the car push the clutch in all the way and wait a few seconds then try to put in reverse , if it goes in ok and no crunch then the clutch is working o.k . If it crunches then you probably have a clutch problem . Keep in mind that reverse is a straight gear and there maybe times when the teeth hit each other and it wont go in , just release the clutch and push in again or if the car can roll let it roll a little . With practice you can change all gears without using the clutch at all and without crunching ( car must be moving though ) .

Going on my stats list yours is the lighter one . Just checked on my list the only diff in specs is side impact bars , i dont think they would be 50 kg so there may be some body stiffening somewhere . Sorry i cant help you there .

No i don't have any probs at all , i just use a 3/4 " rattle gun if the engine is out . I have used your method as well with a 3/4 " socket and a home made special tool to hold the flywheel from turning . When engine is in the car you cant use a rattle gun so i use the starter , its very easy . You have to be carefull when you use a pry bar / screwdriver on the ring gear , you could break a tooth . The tool that i have made grabs a few teeth .

Hydrolic lifters should be bled before you reintall them . This is how you bleed them : Imerse them in in engine oil , get a wire that will fit in the hole , push the wire in the hole then try pumping the by hand until they become tight and no more tiny air bubbles come out . at all times you must keep the totaly in oil and in upright position . Then install them in the engine start the car and they should be quiet after about 30 seconds . When they are fully bled it should be imposible to push then down by hand .

[ wouldnt the gas pressure be off if the ac is off? The system is always under pressure so you will loose all your gas . So first you have to repair it then regas it and its a good idea to replace the dryer as well .

I can do it in about 6-7 hours on my own but need someone to help when lifting it out to make sure i dont bust anything . Thats taking out engine - box as one unit .

If you dont have a 3/4 rattle gun undo the crank pulley before you take it out , it will be very tight , use your starter to undo it .

I have done it before , i prefer to pull out as 1 unit engine + box , i find it easier . I dont know if your engine crane will lift high enough for the 2 units tough , i lift with a chain block . you will need your hoist to be able to lift about 2.1 meters ( from the floor to the hook of your crane ) . Others undo the box and drop it under the car and like in Duncans case undo the box and leave it there . whatever you do you will need to tilt engine box to get to the top box bolts and to make it easier to undo the top starter bolt . I leave everything on the engine , just undo the air comp and secure it on the rail do the same with the steer pump . Just the normal stuff , undo everything , take radiator out drive shafts , undo all hoses take airbox out . hook your chain on the front and rear hooks or use a strap around the engine . One person you will need almost all day and then a helper when you lift it out .

Anyone with a stock airbox ?

The car will be here very soon so i need these compliance , if i cant get them in the next 2 weeks i'll buying new ones from Nissan .

I wish you guys asked before , anyway i dug this up for you . R34 gtr 1540 kg r34 v-spec 1560 kg And the porkiest of all r34 m-spec , my car , 1580 kg Just in case someone asks r34 n1 1550 kg Spec 1 cars ( jan 99 to oct 2000 ) and spec 2 cars ( oct 2000 on ) weigh the same . Emre that agrees with my figures , 1/3 tank = 30kg

Not sure Duncan but i can see where the extra 20 kg on the v-spec is .

You can get them done for $3500+ tyres + brake pads if needed in Sydney as well . R34 prices are about the same now as they were 6 months ago going on the auction stats that i have but import duty is only 10% now .

So you want 3 batteries ? Check your p.m

Does anyone have a car on the "mv frontier ace " ? It departed cobe ( osaka ) yesterday eta Brisbane 11th feb , Sydney 13th , Melbourne 15th and Adelaide 17th .

R32 up to jan 93 weighs 1430 kg r32from feb 93 on =1480 r32 v-spec =1500 kg r33 =1530 kg r33 v-spec =1540 kg

I have one with a small crack in the glass , you can have for $70 .

Sure a hairline crack will lose you compression regardless what tolerances you have but you have low comp on all 6 . I would be checking the cyl head before puting it back together if i was you . Did you have 100% compression before this ? Stock pistons you have 1.5 thou clearence , forgies it depends on the brand but around 4 thou . The cam would have stopped on all the rear cylinders , only the front part would be turning .

I'll let you guys know as soon as i get the numbers . nxtime as you are in sydney you can pick up and pay at the same time if you like .

$1200 Fitted and you can get the best protection , a tracker . Who cares how many points you have they can easily be bypassed by experts , at least with the tracker you can immobilise the car as soon as the move it and you know where it is at all times , unless underground .

I cant offer you warranty at that price sorry , yes a receipt will be issued from the supplier ( not from me ) , they don't retail as far as i know . Its made in China thats all i know dont know brand name.

They are totally sealed and they say so on the case , i cant take a pic of the side of the battery . Its in the boot of my gtr and you have to remove the steel backing to get to it . Those caps you cant remove , i guess thats were they seal them , not sure but i know you cant remove them .

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You are right e46's do throw rods not just in the states , plenty have done here too . There is not a lot in the stock gtr V E46 M3 but down the 1/4 mile the gtr has it on the M3 by a few 10ths of a sec . As for moding the 2 cars , turbos are always easier to get more power .

Its $17500 the full cost landed and complied that you should use and its 3% of that that you pay to the rta ( state gov ) + transfer fee ( about $ 25-30 )+ rego ( about $200 for a gtst Or r32 gtr , some 33's will be $300 as they are more than 1500 kg tareweight) + $30 for a new numberplate + green slip ( $550 -600 for an old car of young driver , down to $300 for a younger car and older driver ) . NSW costs , sydney green slip prices . I don't know what it is in Victoria