wrxhoon

If thats right he should still be able to engage 5th but crunch as it goes in and egage normal when the car is stopped .

Passengers airbag was an option on all series 1 gtrs , most of them only have one though .

you could registered before but i dont think you can with the new raws system . I could be wrong though .

Yes you are right , my mistake !!! cul8tr he wants your jap vin from the firewall or the blue plate , the one you put up is the australian number , that tells you stuff all .

the lip on that car looks like it maybe an aftermarket job to me , hard to tell in the pic .

You can bring it in as a race car if you have a cams licence but you cant register it .

It depends on what it is , at the very least you will have to remove the gearstick and see if the selector operates , it should as it engages the other gears . The box may have to come down if the fork roll pin is off or the fork has jumped the 5th gear hub ( possible ) but hard to say without seen it .

It sounds like a selector problem to me . You will find that the selector runs out of travel , it wont go down enough to select 5th or the fork inside the box has let go , there is a roll pin holding it in place . Try puting it in 5th while stopped with the engine off then strt it up and slowly let the cluth out to see if it engages , if yes then its the selector .

It sounds like a selector problem to me . You will find that the selector runs out of travel , it wont go down enough to select 5th or the fork inside the box has let go , there is a roll pin holding it in place . Try putoing it in 5th while stopped with the engine off then strt it up and slowly let the cluth out to see if it engages , if yes then its the selector .

Add to that series 3 has a rear foglight , series 2 +3 the later model steering wheel and a passenger airbag , series 3 red inserts on the seats and red stitching on the steering wheel , series 3 ,vspec only i believe , has an air duct on the passengers side blinker grill . By the way the front lip is different on s 3 but not colour coded , some people say the front b/bar is different on s 3 but i havent noticed it .

It should be metalic burgangy ( paint code 5 ) but under the bonnet and iside the boot base coat only , not metalic . Thats not to say that it hasn't been pained before though , i can't tell without seen the car .

No you will find that it only has basecoat in engine bay and under bonnet . Are you sure its cherry red ? I didnt think gtrs came in cherry red , they are different red to gtsts .

Steve is right no limiter on pfc and the speedo needle will go well past the 180 k , pfc will show you the highest speed

what do you want to do with it ? You cant registered in australia . You can buy one even cheaper in japan .

950 rpm +/-50

As there is not enough r34 gtrs in australia you are probably better of importing your own . Autostyle ( in sydney ) have 4 r34 gtrs , they are all 99 models 2 v-specs and 2 non v , starting price $89900 . Powerlpay have 3 , all v-specs , a yellow $ 85900 and 2 blue $ 110 k + each .

If its out of the car the easiest way , use a ratle gun . If still in the car use the starter , a socket on a long bar hit the starter and she is off .

I have owned ( only sold it 2 months ago ) a version 6 sti (00 , old shape , lighter than new shape ) . I had a power f/c , cold air intake into stock airbox , water spray on the stock top mount cooler and 1.1 bar boost , everything else stock . It ran 12.6 @ 111 mph @ wsid tree times the same night with traction problems ( to much wheel spin ) . A bog stock v6 sti will be around 13.5 1/4 , a r33 gtr will be about the same maybe 13.3-13.4 so not much difference . My r33 gtr with n1 turbos , power f/c + ebc 1.2 bar boost, every thing else stock does 11.7 @ 121 mph , so you can see the potential of the gtr with mods you can get it much quicker than sti . For the money the sti is a very good package , its half price , if not less , to what a gtr is for the same age . R32 gtrs are getting a little old now so you must be prepared to do some work on them but they are a lot of fun to drive

I do them on the ground all the time , this is what i do . Jack the car as high as possible , put stands on all corners then do all the unbolting as jengi posted , i let the gear oil out of the box first though . When all the bolts are undone , i leave a couple on the bellhousing , i use a trolley jack , on the gtr or any 4wd i tie the the box to the jack ( use chain ) ,undo the last 2 bolts on the bellhousing , then lower the box to the ground . If i have clearence problem ( getting it out from under the car ) , i either get another jack and jack the car heigher or i drop the box on a little creaper like trolley and bring out like that . Of course if you have a hoist and a transmission jack its heaps easier .

Are you sure the r33 gtr and r34 gtr are the same ?

I went to up garage ( they are everywhere ) and autobacks when i was in Osaka a couple weeks ago . Up garage are good and cheap for used parts but autobacks are very expensive , almost the same prices as in australia . I would also suggest that you buy a map here in australia , very hard to find one there in english .

If you have a 34 gtt and it has a pull clutch you have to release the the fork otherwise it will never come appart . It will come a little ( 10 mm or so ) and no more , if its a pull clutch . To release the fork , take the rubber boots ( it should have 2 ) off the belhousing , then using a long nose players or whatever else you have ( even a screwdriver may do ) pull the clip off the fork shaft then push the shaft off and then the box will come off .

Anyone with r34 gtr airbox ?

Still looking for h/lights

You can use LSD oil in the front as well . I use premixed coolant saves the macking around to get the water . Basicaly any brand as long as its minimum 33% , 50 % is better and it will last longer too . You will need about 8 lts if you empty the heater as well as the block .