wrxhoon

I have r33 n1 's in mine and they are great . 2530 's or gtss 's i would go for . the gtrs's are very laggy and you would need to run high boost 1.5 bar + . I run 1.2 bar on my n1's and they pull hard from 4000 all the way to 8000 rpm. I would check the engine if i was you before i install the new turbos . If you had the stock turbos with ceramic wheels and one let go you may find that the ceramic dust has gone through the engine and scored the bores . Which turbo let go ? the rear ? If yes check compression and do a leakdown test on the rear 3 cils to make sure you don't install good turbos then you have to pull the donk out .

I don't think you busted anything . If you leave the car overnight you will find it will boost again to normal boost . You have a stock ecu , right ? You probably find that it running a little lean at top rpm and the stock ecu nocked boost down to what the actuator is .6 bar . If you want to make sure you dont have turbo issues try this test . Unplug the hose that goes to your turbo actuators anywhere you get to it , take it for a run BUT CAREFULL , keep an eye on the boost gauge as soon as it hits .9 bar BACK OFF or you nay blow your turbo. If it boosts to .9 then you will know you have no turbo problems .

I have a passengers side h/light ,it has a very slight crack in one corner ( it doesn't leak ) you can have for $100 .

If you can get hold of a wheel i can get the colour matched for you , or send you to a place to get it in 2 pack . 4door sleeper , I don't doubt that your panelbeater is first class however i just want to point to you how things are done . You can repair a panel without using niki if you want sure but no one does it anymore . 1) by the time you do a file finish on it its to thin . 2) very expensive , cheaper to replace the panel and finaly there is nothing wrong with a filler if used the way it was designed to , actualy its better than file finish and have very thin metal ( on todays cars its very thin to start with unlike old cars ) . Now the primer they put on your car you will find its called primer filler and its a better product than the old primer the use to use ( it doesn't shrink and its much harder ) . Depending on how many coats you apply that will block 40 grit marks . I would never use 240 to rub a car unless i was going to prime it , even then i woul use 320 then prime then 600 if 2 pack finishing coat , 800 if acrylic was going to be used .

Don't forget that all second hand cars coming from japan are very low km's . Aparently they keep the high km cars there and send only low km to australia !!!! lol

Panelbeaters that do high class cars will use filler ( filler is different to putty , or primer filler ) . You use filler ( called niki in the trade ) to fill metal imperfections , first you do the hammer + dolly then shrink then filler then you file the filler then sand the filler with 40 sandpaper , usualy using an orbital sander ( vibrator ) but can use a block as well . Then comes the putty ( usualy spray but can apply with a rubber )or primer filler this saves priming again . The difference between a good job and a crapy one is the amount of filler that you use , one a good job very little , less than 1mm thick but i have seen 10 mm thick niki on a panel . Two.06l , how are the wheels going ? Have you been able to run 11's yet ?

Around $ 4-4.5 k but that depends if you need to change brake pads , you can only use genuine and they are very expensive . Don't forget on top of fob you have to add shipping , customs clearence here maybe a steam clean , import licence funds transfer , all up $1500- 2000 . 15% import duty and 10% gst , then rego and stamp duty . Don't forget that you are buying a car unseen and if it has previous damage you can get it registered in australia EVER . If you buy a car from here its worth paying a little more , less risk .

You have to apply some primer on the metal before the finishing coat is put on regardless of how good the panel is . even new metal you have to prime . new metal first a light coat of etch primer them primer then finishing coat thats the way it is . If you repair a panel , after taking the dint out and shink it you file it with a body file , body files leave file marks thats what you have to block with the primer ,primer filler or putty whatever you use .then you rub back with 320 -600 paper depending on how good the job you want , then finishing coat . If anyone tells you otherwise they are b*shiting .

1 lt every 5000 k k's is normal for a high performance engine especialy if you drive it hard . On the track it will use a lot more though . You should always check the oil level and not wait until its due for a service to do it . Taking it to the track at 3500 k wouldn't efect the oil usage one way or another . If you drive it very easy the rings may never bed in but i wouldn't take it to the track before 1000 k , hard driving when very new may bust a ring . Holdens use low friction rings for better fuel consumpion and their tolerences are not as tight as nissan .

What size tyre are you after Paul ? I have 1 265x35x18 about 80% tread from memory, let me know if you are interested .

How much oil does she use Duncan ? 1 lt every 3000 km ? How many k's on the clock ? Its normal to use a fair bit of oil until the rings bed in but it should settle after 10-15 k k's . If you drive it hard on the track its going to use more oil of course . Some gen 3 Holden v8's use 1 lt every 1000 km and they tell them ( Holden ) thats normal .

A couple of points here : If they use hammers and dollies to repair a damaged panel then they have to srink the panel then comes the filler ( whatever type , these days they mostly use polyester filler , you just add the hardener to it and it cures hard then you file it ) or as you say lead then you file that . After the filing to remove the filing marks they use a spray 2 in one primer filler then using a rubber block sand the surface ( 320 -600 depending on how good a job you want) . I can assure you there is no other way to block the file marks unless you use some kind of primer . Then comes the finishing coat ( a 2 pack mix , colour + hardner ) , a few coats are sprayed then in mica , metalic paints , a few coats of clear , then its baked usualy overnight . If you want a perfect job you cut back with 1500-1800 paper then buf it for a perfect finish . Tthe panelbeaters today mostly will use polyester fillers , not lead and mostly will not repair panels they just replace them , its usualy cheaper .

1.6 mil fob will cost around $32 k landed + complied + rego . 1.8 around $35 k

That will depend on the condition of the car . it will end up costing you $35 k by the time you get it registered . Worth it if its a good car .

Most car co's these days specify 10-20 k k's service but there is a time frame as well ( 6 -12 months usualy ) . If you drive your car normal ( no short trips no hard driving or dusty conditions) thats fine . Personaly i would do it every 5000 or 3 months though and i would use fully synthetic oil as well . 40 years ago 1000 mile intervals was the norm but oil technology has improved sinse then .

Wwhen you put oil in the cilinders the compression will rise for 2 reasons : 1) the oil will make the combustion chamber smaller , so you are compressing same volume of air into a smaller area . 2) the oil stops compression going through the rings . You only pour oil in the cils if you have low compression in one or more cils ( like 30 %- 50 % less than the others ) , then you pour oil in there to determine if its valves or bottom end . If compression doesn't rise quite a lot its valves , if it does rise a lot then its rings usualy . A better test is a leakdown test , thats what you should be doing if you have a leakdown tester .

the only issue here is the diff in compression between cils not the actual number . warm the engine and make sure the throtle is fully open too.

I think you will find that it leaks from the filler neck or the fuel cap . After you been driving for a while especialy on a hot , warm day , take the cap off if there is no hissing sound it means that it leaks . A lot of imports leak from the filler neck because the put them in here and they don't glue them in promply so they are not 100% airtight . To fix it you have to take the filler neck out and reglue it but first make sure the cap doesn't leak .

The variation is a little on the high side but i doupt they will take it back . Its a second hand engine they will say to you ,what do you expect . If you check with the nissan workshop manual , difference between cil limit is 14 psi so its almost to specs limit . Well number 4 is out by a little more that that . Anyway you can try and see what they will say .

thats the reason they have the holes there so you can bolt your gear puller on , that way you wont break anything .

I dont see a problem in taking the harmonic balancer off whith a claw/puller as it is the only way to safely take one off. You will find the harmonic balancer has 2 x 6 mm holes ( pretty sure they are 6 mm but maybe 5 mm ) and you can use a gear puller utilising the 2 holes . If you use a claw puller you may bent or break it .

If your boost gauge reading is right , take out the restrictor and take it for a run to see what the boost will go up to ( the higher the gear the better ) if not to high leave it out ( max 14 psi ) . I was warning you just in case you didn't have a boost gauge . Don't go on the stock boost gauge cause they are not accurate .

You will find the stock boost solinoid on the drivers side mounted on the inner skirt near the strutt tower . It has 2 black hoses going to it and a power plug , one of the hoses ( they are about 8 mm thick o/d ) has 2 yellow lines near where it goes to the solinoid , the restrictor is inside that about 20 mm from the end . A word of warning here if you remove the restrictor and you have bigger exhaust , dump pipes or other mods it may boost a lot more than 14 psi . If you still have the stock ceramic turbos they may let go and you could destroy your engine . Even if you don't have ceramic turbos 1.2 bar is to much boost for the stock ecu to handle , it would lean out at top revs and may blow a piston .

the easiest way to check if the clutch disingages is to engage reverse when the car is stationary , if it doesn't crunch then its fine . try doing it with the pedal a little off the floor . you can ajdust the pedal itself usualy , i never done it in a skyline though .

gtr g/box weighs 90kg but don't forget it has the transfer case with it so gtst box will be lighter .