wrxhoon

Do you have apex boost controller kit ?

Thats the one i've seen parked in front of powerplay imports , not sure if its a genuine "nur-spec ". There is another bayside blue withe rego plates "NUR" and V-specII nur badge at the rear , iknow thats not a genuine "nur", i have seen under the bonnet of that one .

About $2-2.5 k to buy the clutch and about $400-500 to install . You dont have to remove the engine to do it . I did 12.85 @ wsid stock car with a catback exhaust ( i din't have the stock catback ).

All the 26's that i had pulled appart have numbers on them , anyway if they didn't i would make sure that i mark them !

Rb 26's have the cam caps numbered just like other rbs , have a better look and you will find they are marked as gtrgeoff said . You are having your fair share of problems there Deren . The 6 mm bolts on the cam caps get tight in the caps from alloy corrosion ( white stuff ) , when i have them out i always clean them .

Yea you need a 3/4 drive torque wrench , i have one but i'm in Sydney otherwise i would lent it to you . As long as you do it up very tight with a big bar it should be o.k. , i always do them up with a torque wrench though .

I have one in Sydney $50

The batteries are gel-cell and they are $140 but i need 5 all up to get them at that price . You dont say what kind of car you have , they will fit on the r33 no probs all you beed is another bracket ( just the top realy ) the cables should reach . Yes in Sydney and yes you can pick up , depending on where you live . I wouldn't use a normal battery in the boot , its dangerous unless you can get a semi-sealed with the breather .

What kind of turbos are you using ? Turbo kits usualy come with all the gaskets and studs needed . They dont usualy come with the manifold studs though . The locking plates you can reuse if they havent been taken off to many times before .

The shaft is steel and a magnet will stick to it , on the exhaust side however it won't stick on either the N1 so called steel whell turbos or on the stock ceramic turbos . I have both of them in my garage both of a 33 gtr .

You will find that a magnet will NOT stick on any of them , ceramic or the so called steel . The reason is the so called steel are a mixure of alloys that a magnet will not stick , just like stainless steel wont stick to a magnet .

There is a good reason why GTRs don't have sunroofs , it weakens the body , if you want a sun roof just buy a GTS .

All 34 V-specs and M-specs have them , does your MFD show exhaust temp ? intercooler temp ?

Your dump pipes will fit all the stock gtr turbos .

Fordsare the same stud patern as 5 stud lines ( 5x114.3 ) . Only late models have same offset as skylines .

Just a power f/c , good tune and suburban driving but not peak hour ( no freeway either ) . The car had a rebuild engine 87 mm forgies , power f/c N1 turbos and full exhaust , stock fuel system .

You are spot on pete , i was even doing a little better in the old 33 ( 11.7 1/4 mile @121 mph ) , a little down on power compared to yours though . Plenty times i got over 500 k in the tank , even as much as 550 . The 34 i have now uses a little more though , about 450 to the tank and they both hold the same amount of fuel .

If you want to see what the h/patrol cops get up to watch "a current afair " on monday night .

Who is doing the compliance for you ? Why complie it in nsw ? The raw should provide you with everything you need including a blue slip . ( my raw did , so i would think they all do ) You take everything to the rta + a CTP + your cash for rego , about $240 in your case , + $30 or so for a number plate + 3% for stamp duty and they should give you an interim rego . They will ask you to take it to another rta to do a numbers check and when everything is ok they will send you your rego sticker in the mail . You can drive with the interim rego in the meantime . All the above is correct for NSW , check with your states rules , it may or may not differ .

I have used Arias pistons before with good resaults but i know someone that used them and when he checked the rings ( the gap ) it was far to big . Make sure you check the gap on the rings , as a rule for every inch diameter you need 4 thou gap , in the rb25-26 case 86mm =3.4 inches so about 14 thou gap is about right . Second ring usualy a little bigger gap ( 2-3 thou ) and oil scrapers can be bigger still even double 7 thou per inch .

Whatever you do dont touch the 240 volt A/C at home . If you want just put your hand on the 2 poles of your car battery you will see nothing will happen . The coil current will give you a good belt but it wont kill you , so dont hold the coil pack wire while the engine is running , thats not 12 volt .

I just spend as i go , i never count , especialy the hours that i put in to my cars .

What a lot of bulldust , The current in your battery is totaly different to the 240 volt A/C in the house mains . Whatever you do dont play with the house power , that can kill you . The car battery is D/C ( direct current ) and it will not kill you at 12 volts , altough it has heaps of amps . If you happen to touch the + and - with your body nothing will happen you wont even know it ( unless your hands are wet ). If you put the spanner or a wire across the terminals then you will have sparks , it can burn you ( the wire will melt , spanner will get very hot , red hot ) . The reason you disconnect the - ve first is if you touch the cars body with the spanner you dont get fireworks . when the - is disconnected the dody doesn't have - so if you touch the spanner on to it when you undoing the + nothing will happen . Take care with it and you will be o.k.

You will need a gear puller to pull the wheel off . You dont have to pull the s/wheel off to pull the light switch out , just remember you dont need the whole assembly only the light switch , you will find it comes off .

You probably have a crook switch , take it out and clean the contacts and see if anything broken ( plastic ) .