NismoSTune

Yup! just gotta make it run now right? What's the hold up!

Man..... So nerve racking. I just bought a PPG 1-5 dog box last year and are about to install it this year but when I read stuff like "PPG don't hold up" I get bent out of shape. I dunno what power I'll put down but a guy in the USA with the same head and turbos/intake/exhaust but a 2.6 unlike my 2.8 put down 840whp on e85 (which doesnt sell in this country). Soooo im potentially pooched.

Man..... So nerve racking. I just bought a PPG 1-5 dog box last year and are about to install it this year but when I read stuff like "PPG don't hold up" I get bent out of shape. I dunno what power I'll put down but a guy in the USA with the same head and turbos/intake/exhaust but a 2.6 unlike my 2.8 put down 840whp on e85 (which doesnt sell in this country). Soooo im potentially pooched.

You're having problems finding a center hub for the larger input shaft? I had that problem when I went with the PPG dog box and larger spline input. Ended up going with a twin carbonetic clutch which has the optional center hub that fits the ppg input.

I've used twin nismo copper mix, twin Osgiken and twin carbpnetic. They all have their pros and cons but I liked the Carbonetic the best, for power rating and pedal feel.

I don't know much other than they are the smallest EFRs and appear flow more on paper than the 8374 if they were truly 1+1 which isn't realistic. Not sure if the guy frequents this site. PPG helical dog, tomei stroker I know for sure. Tomei poncams but unsure of size.

This sumbich got to fit 2 IWG efrs!!

Hmm good train of thought! Sadly, these calipers were installed 4 years ago (before all other mods) and fit ok as per install manual. Also the hoses came with the calipers for r32 gtr. Lengths are 26.5cm They would maybe fit better if the banjo was on the bottom but they would be worse when the car was lifted and would be even tighter!!!

Here's some pics... yeah I'm thinking hoses too as it's the easiest without adding more possible leak spots (joints/couplers). Would just lose my colored hoses I guess. I'm sure nearly any hydraulic hose shop in town would do it or talk to Goodridge USA and give them some lengths. Just weird that no one else has talked about this issue considering all the parts I used were off the shelf items..

Interesting idea. I had though of this but quickly ditched it because there is already a hanger where the hard line connector ends but I guess I could bypass it or bend. So you're thinking cut the line and add a small section. Hmmm.

Odd question, which side does your brake master cylinder cable connect to? Need on that connects in the driver side..... Just the connector and maybe 4 inches of its cable

1991 r32 gtr Here's my quick story. I've google around and searched but I cannot find a similar occurrence which may point out my selection of parts as a whole, caused the problem. My rear brake lines are very tight and are looking to bust if I move the hubs. Currently, the car is on blocks as suspension is unloaded (dropped). As the suspension loads up wen dropping the car on wheels, the brake line starts to bend the hose at both ends to an unnatural bed radius and started to break the rubber sleeves near the fittings. The suspension arms are all adjust in all the way. I'll post pics shortly. My initial thought was that my Rotora brake kit had come with r34 hoses but their length is the same as r32 (26.5cm). Anyone have some insight or ideas? I have not searched for custom lines yet. Mod list: Driftworks adjustable suspension arms all around. Driftworks bushes all around, including diff and main subframe bushes. All polyurethane. The subframe has been spaced 4mm from the body which I believe is closer than it was with stock bushes. Whiteline Lower shock bush, poly Cusco sway bars Jic magic coilovers with pillow ball uppers Nissan Larger spline N1/r34 diff output flanges OS giken rear differential Rotora 4 piston rear brake kit and SS lines. All parts are powder coated so maybe 1mm added length to the hub location. One or all these mods increased my diff to hub ratio but I cannot find anything. And the brake lines appear to be stock length. Thanks for your help.

Some of you had made up some spacers for the rear subframe. I had done the same but 4mm all around. I see you tried different thicknesses and that someone mentioned 2mm up front (of the rear diff) how did that work out and what was the final spacers used? Did you have to make them into wedges so everything cleaned up evenly when it was different heights or they just fit right? Also, my brake lines are banjo tight and the car is up in the air meaning its just too tight and may bust when dropped back down anyone else had this issue with these? Or it could be my N1 diff flanges are longer than stock...

on a somewhat topic related question, has anyone used this controller or the Aeromotive controller for 2x bosch 044 pumps? Currents seem to be close the the limit but maybe doable?

I agree about some things but What about garrett's dual boost turbos or even the VGT (or VNT) turbos? Those are fairly advanced no? I think some BMWs use those in twins as does some porsches.

Hence why the tried and true Precisions kick arse!!!

I don't think he's making 400kw. but I could be wrong.

Best advice: You want it done right, use the parts it was designed to go with, go with the Full race kit. Who better than Full race to produce the kit since they were part of the R&D. A badass turbo doesn't go cheap like dinosaur -5 bolt on. For what you're after you're fine but if you don't mind spending more, the 7163 will be the turbo you want vs the 8374 which is much more power than you want.

cool. I"ll look further into things then. no launches, easy breakin

What about a guy with a midori solid downpipe, 90mm. Make a custom flex decat pipe...?

I used to run a vipec. trying to sell it and upgrade to a haltech. Better tech/product support.... that and there's only 1 vipec dealer out here lol and his tunes take me into the 10 and 9.8 AFRs...

So my newly built forged engine crank walked after 1,200 KMs. Everything came out as good but the clutch is questioned. It's the 1,100kg version. Adjustments seemed ok. Only thing was we had overfueling issues right before it broke (new injectors) and the tuner was riding the clutch during start up (no oil pressure), about 9 times.... Block ended up being cracked too so I started over (previous problem maybe) Would the clutch be too strong for Nismo RRR bearings and cause the walk? I don't want to dump another 10k into the motor to find out the clutch is too stiff for the wee rb26 engine.

1.2. Unknown deck height. Used head. 8.6 should be my numbers but calculations showed otherwise I guess. I don't know. My goal was 8.7:1. Builder might have worked the deck?

Piggaz. 9.0 CR on the tomei kit? Nuts! I have the tomei 87mm stroker but with valve recess giving me less than 8.3:1