SSStagea

After having 2 people come and have a look today (both mechanics), both of them think the same thing. Either the bearing or the shaft is gone in the turbo. If it is either of these is it possible just to get those parts replaced? Haven't looked on the exhaust side of things as I ran out of time to rip the dump pipe off. Could I just send it back to GCG and get them to service it and if so any one know a ballpark figure of what it would cost to replace bearing/shaft? Thanks greatly for all the help.

Definite power loss. Was making boost earlier in the night, shown by guage, then later you could feel that there was no boost building at all. How do I check the wastegate? If it was the wastegate would it make the turbo sound different?

OK, taken of intake and checked front turbine for play/ bits missing. Everything looks normal on front side. Took off cat and there is no bits of anything in there. Will check all hoses again and look for anything split/ not on. Thanks for the replies and the help. One other question - when I put the cat back in place, will I need anything to go around the seals?? The gaskets are both in good order but does it need any type of sealant to go on with it?

Well it isn't blowing any smoke which is a good thing. Will start checking hoses first thing in the morning and see if I can find anything. Thanks for the reply.

OK, have a Ser 2 Stagea (RB25 NEO) manual, with a hiflow stock turbo. The problem I now have is, large whinning sound coming from the Turbo area (which has now quiet since having to limp the car home 100km's), and the car is making absolutely NO boost. Drove from Hervey Bay to Bundy tonight and back again. Was making boost on the way to Bundy and around there for about half hour, the Trubo seemed to be whining a bit louder then normal and then got to the stage of sounding like there was a Supercharger on there. Not making any boost according to the stock boost gauge. Could I have just knocked a hose loose/ split a hose when I took the coil pack cover off the other day? Should I just start by taking all the hoses off and seeing if they are split or if any of them are loose? Would a boost leak make the turbo spool louder? And last off, would driving it all the way home with it not making boost, have caused more damage to things? I kept the revs under 3k in all gears and at about 2.5k in fifth gear on the highway. Any help would be great cause I don't know where to start looking since this is my first Turbo vehicle. Thanks Dave

Sorry, no silicon joiners. I have the mounting parts that came with it, will need to be welded in place. Also have some clamps for it. Will have to check if there is enough for it. The silicon joiners were used allready for something else, sorry. Will also see if I can get it all in a box together and let you know how I go.

I have for sale a cargo blind and also a FMIC that has been modified to have both pipes exit from the same side so the original piping can be used. The FMIC is a just jap item that was modified after it was bought. Was given to me with the sale of the car but not planning on using it. Has some piping to go with it which is all new but I don't have the silicon hose connectors. Looking for $200 for the FMIC and $140 for the cargo blind. Contact either through PM or call Dave on 0438 758 717 Pickup prefered or buyer to organise delivery. Both items to large to post. Items located in Hervey Bay, QLD 4655. Will post pics of cargo blind at a later time. Here is a photo of the FMIC.

Yeah, I have the metal bracket to but when you remove it you are greeted by the plastic bar. I cut it and got access to the filters. Will make it easy now for replacing in the future. Thanks for the info Chook, will price them tomorrow.

I ended up cutting mine as well. I don't think mine have ever been replaced. Will have to invest in new ones due to the fact that even with soaking mine, they are still very blocked up. Just had a quick look on FAST - when you bring up the part number for the filters it has the one that Chook mentioned in the first post (B7274-0V525) and it also has (27275-0V510) which matches the number on the end of both my filters. It say's that there is 2 per vehicle for the second number (0V510) but only 1 for the (0V525). I will order using the part on the end of my filter and see how I go with prices.

I have a metal cross brace that sits in front of that plastic one. I think I might just cut the plastic one with the trusty Dremel since it doesn't look to serve any purpose. The metal one reinforces that area so, I guess it's time to start cutting..

Ok, so is there any sort of trick for the series 2 to get the 2 filters out. I have removed the glovebox, metal and plastic panels behind and I am left with the bottom filter being stuck behind a panel that is attached to the dash and can't be removed without removing the dash or cutting. The top filter seems to be stuck. I can pull it out about 5mm but it won't come out any more. I figure if I can remove the top filter then I should be able to lift the bottom filter up and pull it out. Is this the right idea? Does the top filter just need a bit of gentle persuasion? This is a pic of what I am faced with..

Best thing they invented for the wagon. Impressed all my friends with it when I first got our car. Now I just gotta teach everyone else not to slam/drop my boot door. At least my wife can't slam it now either.

Sorry to use your thread... Since I still have the Ballasts attatched to my headlights and the original wiring loom hasn't been chopped (Plugs still there) is it possible just to buy the bulbs for the xenons? Will I need anything else? This is for a series 2 RS4S. Turns out the plug hole for the ballast is filled with black silicon? Is this possible to just clean out?

I got a set of the Nismo Clear side indicators from Nengun half way through last month for $76 delivered. Was quite happy except for the long wait for them to be shipped. They come with the orange bulbs as well.

Well looks like I won't be making it after all. Got laid off from my job last wednesday so unless I can get another job by the end of this week, I won't be able to afford it sorry. Have a few things regarding jobs going at the moment so hopefully one of them come through and I can have that weekend free cause I would definitely love to make it down for this.

Will be good to stretch the Stagea's legs. First trip to Brisbane since owning it so will give me the chance to see what fuel economy is like. Will definitely see you down there WOGBOY. Looking forward to this cruise.

If TEIN don't make coilovers for the RS4-S, then what do I have in my garage then. I have a set that was in my RS4-S that needs one serviced and then they are going back in. Super Street Damper type NA, is what is written on them.

Will be coming down from Hervey Bay for this hopefully. Will come down on the Saturday and stay with friends so I can get to Aspley early and not make it such a long drive. Hopefully there will be some other Stagea's there for me to see. Have to make sure I keep the Banana Wagon nice and clean for this.

I tried that wire last night with a test light. Nothing when off, accesories, started and started with lights on. Am going to see if I can get a multimeter to ry a few things out.

Anyone have access to a wiring diagram so that I can try and work out what the wire is that it is connected to??

Nah, no reverse sensor/ Camera. Forgot to mention that it isn't connected to anything now. Just spliced in and about 50cm of wire and then taped up with electrical tape at the end.

Hi all, removed my floor panels in the boot of my RS4S today to run wires for an amp and found that there has been at some time a wire spliced into the loom that heads towards the drivers side rear of the car near where the fluid bottle is. The wire it is spliced into is Red with a thin black stripe along it. I have added a couple of pics at the bottom showing where it is. Another couple of quick questions. Anyone know the part number for the badge that sits in the bottom corner of the front grille. My grille has been replaced at some time and it never had the badge replaced. Also, anyone know how easy it is to remove the back seats? I want to run my amp wiring under there and also see if it needs cleaning underneath while I am at it. Pics...

If you are wanting to know about a 2J into a Cressida, here is one my freind is buying/ helping build. Hopefully you can see this post. http://hbstreetscene.com/index.php?showtopic=1444&st=0

I took mine off and took them to a plastics shop where they sanded them back with a very fine sandpaper and then buffed them. They came up great, made them clearer at night and the only thing wrong with them now is the ageing cracks on the inside of the plastic cover. Best bet is to do what the others have said and use a plastic polish, or if you have access to a buff, you could always try sanding and buffing.

My suggestion for cutting the front bar would to be find a plastic specialist that does plastic welding/ repairs and get them to cut it out and patch up the holes top and bottom. There is a place here in Hervey Bay, Qld that speciallizes in plastic work concerning customising bodykits and any plastic work you can think of. See if you can find anywhere that does it in your area. Or drive to Hervey Bay.