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Komdotkom

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Posts posted by Komdotkom

    Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    The most important thing to do is to ensure that the pistons are fully back in the bores so that you can't get air bubbles forming behind them. If you've got AKB springs then you'll need to make some timber wedges to hold them back which is pretty simple - but you'll need wedges for bleeding anyway to stop the pistons moving up the bore.

    I'm a big fan of bleeding calipers from the 'bottom' because bubbles like to go 'up'. Since you're going to have the calipers off the car and mounted to some sort of fixture (unless you've got 5 sets of hands) I'd suggest that you bleed it by introducing fluid from both directions and with the caliper in both orientations. Get a barb for the end of your braided line and go to the chemist and get a 100ml syringe to force the fluid through with. You can use any old shit fluid for this (*new) because you'll displace it once you bleed the system properly later on with SRF or similar. Probably worth cracking the transfer pipe too just to be sure.

    Once you've got brake fluid everywhere and no more bubbles stick the caliper back on the car and bleed the fluid up from the caliper to the MC.

    Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    Looks to be  a two part problem to me. Air behind pistons on one side of the caliper and a flexible dog bone. I know all the cool kids run alloy dog bones for the added lightness but I prefer steel because I've had problems with an alloy kit before (chattering).

    This sounds extreme but I'd force all the pistons right back in the bores, bleed the caliper on the bench, re-install and bleed the system again. Assuming there are no AKB springs in these?

    • Like 1

    GOT SUM's RB34

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Thanks mate, now that I'm looking at it on the PC and not my phone I can see you have a standard uni at the rear. I've got a CV on my diff but a flat flange on the back of the gearbox. I like the idea of a CV centre bearing, I'll see what my tailshaft guy has to say about it. Thanks for the quick reply.

    • Like 1

    R32 Gtst - Track Car

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    Oh righto, I'm not on Faceballs so haven't seen it. 

    You're not still running a booster and Nissan master? I've got a Tilton setup in mine, it's a bit shit when pads are cold because it's unboosted an a 7.5:1 pedal ratio but once the tyres and pads are hot it's magic. Super easy to get the bias right with pressure sensors too, we set mine by the pressures as recommended by my Motec boffin and it was perfect straight out of the box 

    • Like 1

    R32 Gtst - Track Car

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    f**k this is an epic build, not much left on the table now surely. More carbon/less weight and correctly located ballast and even more aero is all I can think of. I love how it's gone from a pretty decent Sprint/club day car to full bonkers in a short space of time.

    Did you just load Brad's tune into your ABS? I'm hoping I don't have to think about it too much. On another note, I thought Motec were price gouging when they charged $500 for a UTC but they are rookies compared to Bosch. $1800 for a tuning cable? Jesus.

    Do you have any in-car from WTAC 23?

    R32 Gtst - Track Car

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    On 06/03/2024 at 3:20 PM, bcozican said:

    nice - pain in the butt to get that in and setup/ installed but good when done - you running sensors off hubs not shafts yeah ?

     

    Yeah, I just called Brad and he sent me the shit. Top guy to deal with, just get's it done.

    R32 Gtst - Track Car

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    My Bosch ABS arrived yesterday, I'll be interested to hear how you rate it now that you've got enough brakes to slow the rotation of the earth. I reckon the ABS will be working pretty hard to keep up with this mental setup you've put on.

    My mate runs 380mm V8SC brakes on his IPRA car, it's mental and you've gone even bigger😂

    R32 Gtst - Track Car

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    Jesus, that's a big diffuser. Planning to come East for some events at SMSP before WTAC 24?

    Out of interest, do you rate the Motorsport ABS? While I'm needlessly upgrading mine I have been considering it but $12k is a lot of cash.

    Ring and pinion differences - R200 (not R200V) - and LSD's

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    I sold the Nismo LSD to Fatz for one of his fleet and am using a Cusco instead, this needs GTR stub axles which are made of whale tears judging by the price. For the 3.5 ratio I'm getting a set of gears from Neat, I'm also building a 3.7 for Winton just in case.

    The 350Z conversion is not as simple or as good as you'd hope. The front mounting 'ears' on the diff case are not in the same position from a height point of view so you end up with the diff hanging down much lower than a 'normal' R200. This creates some dramas with driveshaft angles. A guy I know has this setup in his S14 and needed to get GTR driveshafts to make it work which are also made from whale tears so it ended up being a very expensive conversion. Although the gears from Neat are $2k for a set, it probably would have been a better option with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight.

    • Thanks 1

    Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I've got a bit more information from the owner about the turbo and it appears to be quite a strange hybrid. It was built to be similar to the GT2860R Rally which is a turbo which was designed specifically for rally cars on a 34mm restrictor.

    This is great in theory but when you overlay the choke line on the compressor map all of a sudden things are looking less good. 36 lb/min for a 38mm restrictor I think is on the money.

    image.thumb.png.3481263fd9dfcca25e8190f9129f79bf.png

     

    I think my question now becomes do you tune the wastegate position to be keep it just below the choke point of the restrictor and taper shaft speed as rpm increases. I'm assuming that once the orifice chokes the flow gets ugly and we also see a vacuum in front of the compressor blades which is not great. Or do you just smash as much boost in there as possible and make it choke as soon as possible? My thinking is that the turbulent flow and vacuum in front of the compressor is NFG but I don't have any experience with this.

     

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