Komdotkom
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Posts posted by Komdotkom
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I'm very happy about this. I've got exactly the same to go on mine if my gearbox ever arrives.
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I've got a new 21U highflow if you are interested. Tao did some secret squirrel shit to it about 5 years ago then I never used it. Made 280kw on an RB25
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Mine is due in April.
Not 4wd.
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Sounds good, I'm keen to see how it goes. I've just got a G30-770 but think it's going to be a bit small.
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Did you go for a G30-900?
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I've upgraded the Motec on my car and will sell the old one, M600 with every conceivable upgrade.
PM me if you are interested.
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I was thinking 3.36 ratio, I just thought a new diff and shafts would be better and simpler to get.
I'll take some old parts and a tape measure to the wreckers and have a look at the differences. Ideally I'd just find a wheel bearing which allows the whole half shaft and cvs to be used.
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Fitting a sequential box to my car with a 1:1 6th gear means I need a diff with a lower ratio. Has anyone fitted a 350z diff and shafts to an R32/33? My car has an S14 rear cradle so it's a bit wider. I see GK Tech does a bush kit for the diff, but what about the shaft lengths and outer bearings?
Cheers
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2 hours ago, bcozican said:
Yeop sure did. Awesome sauce glad he had some left!
You get level 2 or 3 logging?
Had to get 2 for the pro level package, I can't see myself needing more than that. He's a legend to deal with.
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On 09/02/2023 at 2:35 PM, bcozican said:
Updating to a Motec M150 GPRP Pro package with all the gear to try and manage this thing moving forward and help a rank amateur like myself to extract the most I can out of this car eventually
this is going to pretty much require a full car rewire but given the first incarnation of the car was 8 years ago with just a basic package you know what its like when you start adding this and splicing that etc everything just gets outdated and messy.
This will go in very soon and be coupled with a new hot side of Artec exh mani and G35 1050 thats been sitting on the shelf for a while
Hey mate, did you get this off Brad? I ordered mine off him today.
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Looks good, keen to hear how it goes.
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Sadly it's the way to sell things these days. It's all about the sizzle not the sausage.
Don't get me wrong I think it's a decent product, I just hate all the marketing bullshit. I suppose middle aged sceptical men are not their target market though. Surely it would be worth their while to fund a shop to do a back to back?
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15% more money than the last paid endorsement they did? 100% Advertorial
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I log coolant temps in a few different places so I can add another one to the feed out of the rear of the head and see what the difference is.
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2 hours ago, bcozican said:
I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it.
We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line.
Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄
Pm in coming.
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I suspect that's who it's aimed at. Just to be clear, I don't have any cooling issues; I've spent plenty of time and money on the cooling system and it's got a 3 pass radiator, swirl pot and header tank which bleeds the system of air.
I'd be interested to see if there was a temperature difference across the head significant enough to impact mixtures.
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I need to pull my engine when I fit a new gearbox and will change over my head drain (Spool) to something nicer and get the plumbing to the dry sump tidied up. I was doing some googling to see what was around and came across this product, according to the video it removes water from the back of the head where it gets hot.
https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb-double-head-drain-oil-coolant
I'm not aware of this issue with RB's, is this just PRP selling us something we don't need because it looks great?
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Thanks for posting, I've got one on the way now and it saves me trying to invent something which won't be 1/2 as good.
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I'm going to get some mounts welded to mine to hold a rigid heat shield, I'm not fan of wraps or ceramic coatings. I hope the cast material welds ok, my fabricator reckons it will be fine but we'll see.
Still an 8 week lead time on my turbine housing and no ETA on sequential box so I'm not in a rush.
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I've got a coppermix twin in one of my cars with a nismo slave, no issues. The caveat is that it runs a Tilton pedal box, not a stock pedal/master.
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I've got everything except the turbine housing just waiting to be installed. They tell me late March for the housing but these days it's hard to predict delivery dates.
I'm looking forward to the convenience and reliability of V-Bands on everything.
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Hi mate, my point was more that reluctors are generally very reliable; probably more than hall sensors particularly with high tooth counts. With that in mind I would suggest that your issue is likely to be wiring/setup based rather than a fault with the reluctor itself.
As rpm/triggers increase so does the amplitude of the waveform from the reluctor but as you've pointed out the voltages can be very low at cranking RPM. I think once you run a ref/sync trace on it you'll know what the problem is and how to address it.
With respect to tooth counts on crank triggers, I would prefer to run a missing tooth configuration if I'm spending the money anyway so I wasn't happy with the standard 12 tooth from Ross. They make nice gear though, I've got their dry sump setup and it's very well made.
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I'm not a Haltech guy, but I'm assuming the software has a scope built in? Do you get interrupted wave forms or just small ones? I sometimes get an error (Motec) from my cam reluctor at cranking speed due to the low tooth count (1) and low cranking speed, but this clears as soon as the engine fires.
While I agree with you that the GT101's are cheap, reasonably reliable and easy to replace they are not a great choice for a crank trigger if you are running a decent number of teeth in a missing tooth configuration. I run 60-2 on my car which uses a Ross damper and trigger bracket but a Bosch Motorsport reluctor and a trigger wheel from some joint in the UK. I had to turn the centre bore out to make it fit the Ross balancer, but the stock Ross timing wheel didn't have many teeth or missing teeth. I went this way on the advice of my Motec boffin who has done implementations on Le Mans cars so he's pretty switched on.
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Speaking of stock issues, no reverse rotation housings available until March at the earliest for the G30's. I blame Artec, everybody got on board and now I can't get a turbo.
Talk about first world problems.
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R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted · Edited by Komdotkom
Yep, and wheel speed sensors. This can be made simpler if you are running out of inputs (4xdig inputs required) by running the Bosch Motorsport ABS which will transmit your wheel speeds over CAN. The bad news is you need to convert the rear ABS sensors to work on the hub end of the driveshaft because it's quite fussy about drive shaft wind up. That and the cost of course.....
I'm not familiar with Haltech but from what I've heard they also do a version of torque management which is similar and simpler to setup than the M150 Pro package. Seems to work in drag cars ok.