Komdotkom
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Posts posted by Komdotkom
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On 19/04/2022 at 8:48 AM, Full-Race Geoff said:
for a built 2.5L RB25 targeting 600-700whp you could pick a range, 600? or 700. twinscroll G30-770 would be my vote for 550-600. G35-900 would be a recommendation for 650-700.
Would you run the G30-770 with the T4 1.06 twin scroll housing instead of the .83 V band on a built RB25?
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https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-an10-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30
Not a bad bit of gear, I'm using one with my dry sump no issues.
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That's going to be hard to get right. You're doing very different calculations so the resolution available in the ECU will be critical.
You will need to spend a lot of time making sure that your driven wheel speed matches your front wheel speed, I suspect that you'll need a lot of numbers after the decimal point for this to read correctly.
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Yes, just the stock ABS sensor hole (shims needed to get correct sensor clearance) and then I chucked the tone ring in the rotary table and knocked off every second tooth in the mill.
You need to have an ECU which can do different wheel speed calculations on either end of the car, I'm not sure what you are running but Motec does it. I don't have much experience with the other brands. On the rear I just run unmodified tone rings because the teeth are larger and further apart which works for GT101's.
It's worth noting that GT101's get a bad wrap largely on missing tooth setups, which they are shit at. On constant tooth setups I've not had any dramas with them but I always have spares ready to go just in case.
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I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs.
This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.
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Not much, 343kw
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I've got a Plazmaman Pro Series, no issues. IAT's are usually about 10C higher than ambient
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Thanks mate, I'll have a look at Fast.
Looking good, white is an excellent choice. Mine is black and you can't see shit in the engine bay.
No tower legs on the cage? Your cages seem to have massive braces between the main hoop and the front leg, how do you go getting the seats in there? It certainly looks like a stronger option in the case of a roll over, I don't see any cages like that over here.
Coming to Victoria for any events? I'm doing reliability testing (sprints) at the moment for new engine and dry sump but might get to Snowy River or GTR later this year if I get my shit together.
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What's your plan to demonstrate the build date of your car Ben? Given that the plates don't have the actual build date on them is it acceptable to quote a website as proof of manufacturing date?
My chassis number is in the 1900's so it's well and truly in the first production run but I'm a bit unclear on what constitutes 'proof' of the manufacturing dates.
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On 12/03/2022 at 7:46 PM, BK said:
Here is dash 10 at around 13.5mm inside and I'm probably / defintely stretching this. Dash 10 anything should not be used for turbo drain ever.
I've just used the BMRS braided hose for my dry sump setup, although it's expensive it's perfect for turbo drains because it's so much more flexible than the teflon braided Speedflow or imitators. There's no way I would have done some of my lines in normal braided but BMRS in -16 bends like a dream without kinking.
Marcos at The Race Shop can hook you up, or MSCN in Sydney.
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A single EGT is a great tool for setting the correct timing with E85. Mine sits just after the turbine outlet in the dump.
I agree that individual EGT's is ideal for injector fine tuning, but most people CBF'd with the expense or hassle. If purchasing a new manifold you'd be mad not to have EGT bungs installed though.
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Mine runs in the high 800C range at max RPM and is about 650 at idle. Measured with Motec EGT
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So in summary, it seems that without divided housings and a serious lack of real world data on RB's the G Series is a bit of a flop.
I love this quote about the Precisoins "they are about as fragile as a coke addicted supermodel girlfriend."
I suppose it's back to EFR's then with low quality casting and high price tags.
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The Sainz bar is the vertical(ish) brace for the front leg. The bend in the front leg makes them weaker so they put the extra bar in there to help in roll overs. They're great for strength but I've got deep seats with big wings in mind and it's an ordeal for my partner in crime to get out. He's 6'2" and 120kg though....
Thanks for the info on the Samsonas, I'll contact them and get an actual price.
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Righto, you must have got a pretty good deal. There's only a couple of thousand difference in the pricing I did.
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Good progress mate, are you putting Sainz bars in? I've goth this configuration in mine and you need to be a contortionist to get out of the damn thing with winged seats.
What are you planning for a gearbox? I've been looking at PPG dog sets but kind of think I should just get a Holinger.
I'm still waiting to get mine back from having the dry sump fitted, it was supposed to be finished before Christmas but the Motec boffin has been on holiday so hopefully back on the rollers next week.
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Oddly it seems they only do a single divided housing in the G30 and G35 range (T4 1.06). No much use for a smaller displacement engine which could make good use of the added response from a split housing.
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Or any G series for that matter. It's like no one ever puts them on RB's
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Hi Geoff, the manifold would be a single scroll V-Band, I wasn't aware that there was any other option for these.
Talking to the local sales team who sell these they have recommended a G30-770 instead of a 900, they feel that in the G30 configuration they don't have enough turbine to spin the 900 compressor. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.
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I'd be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the merits of G30-900 vs G35-900 on a built 2.7. It appears that the compressor, CHRA and comp cover are identical, just a different turbine and housing.
I'm not looking to make 500kw and would like good response on the street, it seems to me that the G30-900 would be a good option, but I have a niggling concern that I might be trading off a reasonable amount of top end for very little transient/low rpm response. The engine is fully built but runs hydraulic lifters so max rpm is probably 7500
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Interested to hear about this shifter, did you really pay $1k for it or do you have a connection for a more competitive price?
https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/short-shifter-5-speed-gearbox-skyline-r33-r34-gts
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VQ37 and six speed. Cheap in the states and with a set of JWT cams will easily eclipse and S54 in power, reliability and torque. Not to mention you get rid of front axle weight and gain better ratios in the gearbox at the same time.
Add a turbo and 350kw reliably is very easy to achieve without any other supporting mods.
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Good info mate, I'll certainly talk to my fabricator about it. My mate with the 30DET had the same issue until he got the air bleed size right.
Who would have thought, an RB spitting oil everywhere - what a f**king surprise.
Got any plans for oil de-aeration? I was going to get an Oberg welded to the top of the tank similar to what the NASCAR guys do to break up the bubbles, not perfect but better than nothing. I don't know if I can stump up $1500 for a Spintric.
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I'm running the same pump, but the Ross kit. A mate who ran a circuit RB30DET had an adjustable bleed from one cam cover, it ended up being about 4mm I think, otherwise totally sealed.
Although negative crank case pressure would be nice, I'd be happy just to keep the RB from exploding for a while longer.
Garrett G Series
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Thanks Geoff, there's not much information around about these turbo's your input is invaluable.