Komdotkom
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Posts posted by Komdotkom
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Looks tops, nice to see a picture that isn't straight form Artec. I'll be interested to hear how you go with that front stud, looks like a bastard.
Mine is en route from Brisvegas to Melbourne now, but reverse rotation G30 turbos are out of stock. FFS.
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The guy in motorsport builds on here with the crazy R32 4 door has just got one and I've got one on order.
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I'm putting a G30-770 on one of my cars and need a manifold. Initially I was going to get a Sinco but they are too busy to take my order, so I will have to look elsewhere. I'm not a fan of 6Boost, so the only other option I can see is an Artec. Or Hypertune but I'm not sure if they are worth the price.
The Artec looks nice but I want to add EGT and EMAP so will have to weld bungs on it which will be fun on cast.
Any other options I'm missing?
V-Band turbo and wastegate
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Sorry mate, I binned most of the stock HCR32 stuff in the last shed purge. I thought there might have been a loom floating around but it all went in the bin.
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I might have a complete HCR32 loom in the shed if you want it.
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On 23/11/2022 at 8:26 PM, hardsteppa said:
Have been using a G30-660 with a .73 exhaust housing the last few weeks. On RB25det at 1.5 bar, it is quite possibly the best turbo I've had on the car, sooooo responsive and pulls HARD to 7000rpm. It also controls boost better as on my setup I would get boost creep on ATR43ss2 and GTX3076gen2 that wanted to keep going past 1.5bar in the higher rpms. No dyno result as yet for it though.
Flame suit on, I know there's likely to be alot of "that's too small!" and from the compressor map, it might be close to the turbo's limits but a while back I was driving a stock BMW turbo 118i that was killing my car for daily driving and zippiness. This turbo seems a great match for daily driving and tighter circuits, mountain roads etc. Still wondering if I should move up to the G30-770 though... Thoughts are welcome.
I've just ordered a G30-770 for mine, I'll let you know.
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Great build mate, not much left to upgrade now. I'm just waiting for the billet VR38/4wd/Spaceframe/Active areo updates which are the logical next step....
Looking forward to your feedback on the Bosch ABS.
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
I will never understand such people. Bling doesn't help in any way.
But you aren't a Lebanese gangster/bikie and customer of Maatouks.
2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:
One reason too running a cast block over a billet is race class rules. IPRA have been stuffing the ford v8 people around allowing then not allowing certain cast blocks too.IPRA needs to be a factory block, no aftermarket blocks allowed unless your name is Ray. No special production blocks either, so you can't run a reproduction SBC block.
2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:I think theres a bit more too it than that. But swapping heads from one manufacturer has been done off the top of my head is the ford crossflow onto holden 202 as bore spacing is the same.
There's a bloke who has cast a 6 cyl K series head for the old L28 from 240Z. It's $20k, but pretty awesome.
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On 10/10/2022 at 4:02 PM, GTSBoy said:
Maybe. Maybe not. For a "genuine" street car, a billet block is an unpleasantness that you'd rather not have to live with. Much easier to deal with the thermals in a cast block. So, if you want a street motor that pushes past the sensible limits of a factory block, but don't want billet, then this is the way forward. If it costs nearly as much as a billet block and offers at least as much "strength" as you need for the street motor, it doesn't really matter if it gives anything away (in the way of "strength") to the billet block. If it takes away the worry of the stock block shitting itself and spilling money all over the road, then it's all good, no?
It's whether people want the bling of the billet, since you are at a similar price point you may as well go all the way.
The other real issue is the head, since everything below it is now aftermarket and optimised the limiting factor becomes the head with its 40 year old design. Someone needs to 3D print a mould for a K series with 2 extra pots on it.
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It will be a difficult product to sell in Australia I think. The price point will have to be $6-7k and work with a wet sump, otherwise you'd just get a billet block at $13k ish.
The RB also has a less robust crank compared to a 2J, so do you design your aftermarket block around a billet crank which doesn't have the same inherent issues as the factory crank? I'd love to see a taller deck cast block setup for a billet crank which could be purchased as a package from Dart.
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I just run R32 ABS knuckles with GT101's in the hole, perfect fit. I knocked 1/2 the teeth off the ABS rings to keep the count under control, GT101's being a bit shit.
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f**k, solid update!
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I'd be interested to see what you did with the slave cylinder and bearing, why do people not use the standard item? Is it just the overall height is wrong?
I'm about to do a cut and shut bellhousing conversion for one of these (if I ever get time)
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Talking about valve springs in these terms is problematic. Valve spring pressures are measured at the seat, and on the nose of the cam (max cam lift). Two different springs with the same seat pressure don't necessarily have the same pressure on the nose, and vice versa. Like spring rate vs wheel rate when discussing suspension = apples vs oranges
There are so many factors to valve float, seat pressure is barely half the story. Heavy springs will generally help with valve float but they are not always the best way to skin that particular cat and always cost power.
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That's interesting, thanks for posting the outcome.
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I was doing some data stuff on my car which is also dry sumped and we didn't want the engine running, so used a Subaru cam belt (15km long) and a dry sump mandrel on a power drill. This allowed us to spin the pump independently of the engine and log some data, and the drill can be located in a convenient location without some poor bastard on his back under the car.
Perhaps you could do this and see if there's any other weird shit going on? Overall oil pressure isn't your problem, so it's leaking out or you have a faulty solenoid. Alternatively there's something mechanical dragging on the gear, as above it's got nothing to do with valve springs.
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On 04/05/2022 at 11:42 AM, sav man said:
I'm going to try, if enough of us get together we'll have a better chance. I think only 14% of the event was run
While I think you've got SFA chance of actually getting money off them, I would hope that they would offer a significant discount on future entries. Despite the event not running in a competitive sense, I don't think the costs to the organisation will be much lower so from their point of view I don't think it will be viable to hand over any cash.
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Is there also rumblings about partial refunds for competitors this year? I can only imagine the money which has gone down the drain for no event this year.
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On 03/05/2022 at 6:13 PM, robbo_rb180 said:
New sporting & technical Regs will be out in January so will see. I suspect a lot of the classic GT cars will have they wings clipped. They have already capped speed at 200kph but it how fast the top cars get there & maintain it is one issue I see. At Targa GBR last year there were lots of RTZ to slow us down and to avoid cars jumping crests too. Most drivers also don't do much driving throughout the year.
I wonder if Rallysafe is testing their gear in these locations as seems to be a lot of drop outs. Did they do any more detailed briefing on rallysafe?This is my single biggest issue with tarmac rally, the rules change far too often; it's a great way to alienate competitors. Perhaps I've got a different perspective because most of the racers I know are in NC or IPRA and rule changes seldom happen, but it gives people certainty about where they are going and the cars they are building. I'm certainly not saying these categories have the rules correct, IPRA in particular, but given the cost of competitive vehicle construction to a reasonable standard nobody wants to re-build a car to keep up with regular rule changes.
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Do you reckon Motorsport Australia will try and dial the rules back a bit to slow the cars down? Or will they just go back to AASA?
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On 25/04/2021 at 1:47 PM, The Sherrid said:
So she landed about a month after depost. Richard from HGT was great, answered when I called.
Very happy with the build, looks great.
Adding some bracing to a subframe and a new diff etc before I put it in.
And then?
I'm pretty close to ordering an HGT for mine.
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On 20/04/2022 at 12:11 PM, Lithium said:
20B is a LOT cheaper to build and easier to install, and in some ways the sound may make people second guess what's in it as well. Hopefully with a decent matched turbo it should be peppy enough
They make great power too, a mate has a 20B S4 RX-7, but even used motors are fetching huge dollars now.
But they don't sound like a 4 rotor. I've always wanted to this to my 240z but I've already got enough projects.
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Why no quad rotor? Twice as reliable.
Perhaps.
But epic sound!
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The elephant in the room here is the $25k gearbox to go with a $500 motor.
As someone who has spent an unwise amount of money on an RB20 to make it semi decent, build a dirty 30 and enjoy life.
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Artec Manifolds
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Southern hemisphere, needs reverse rotation.