kjb_r33

Plastic under drivers knees $10 how much total to send this to sydney?

Thanks to Edd, elbow is taken care of, as is the boot lining Thanks Aaron

Just bought one myself off ebay, 84 delivered, fitting was no problem...

Torque converters at coupling point have about a 10% slip. To get rid of this slip the fit it was a lockup clutch inside the converter. When it swtiches on (during low load cruise conditions) it locks impellor to turbine to get rid of that slip. Can feel like another gear change because revs will drop around 10% for the same road speed.

BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER

OK, for the 32, i'm after a set of side skirts, color isnt an issue. For the r33, need passenger door, no dints, prefer maroon- Boot lining, (Battery cover and floor section) plastic panel under the steering column, trim that goes up the outside of the "A" pillar, Floor mats, "prefer whole carpet if available" Good dash pad if any are available. Also still after a rb25 compressor outlet elbow Prefer Sydney. Thanks

also alot of sterring arms and so on on ebay at the moment

Anyone got one laying around, preferably Sydney as my 33 has sacrificed hers for my 32 turbo upgrade. Want them Both on the road. Thanks

Sirts been sold yet, how much to ship to sydney if they arent?

Online arguments are like running in the special olympics. Even if you win, your still a retard.

Synchro hub assembly is probably the more correct term. It consists of the sliding sleeve, Baulk rings, synchro hub (which is splined to the output shaft), key inserts and insert springs. I'll have a look for p/no's when i get home, if you send me your vin number. For it to lock into 3rd gear id say the baulk ring has collapsed and the sliding sleeve has jammed onto the distorted baulk ring/hub.

Probably pings because when you disconnect the ECU, it goes back to factory base settings for fuel and ignition maps. I beleive the standard feul octane rating in japan is around 100 ron. Its sudeenly running on something alot less than that (you cant beleive the ratings here). Therefore it pings until it retards the timing.

My heater stays on full all the time. Can someone tell me if the heat is regulated via a tap on the coolant lines to the heat exchanger of simply by positioning a flap to direct heat through the heat exchanger. I couldnt see a tap under the bonnet where they usually are (in other makes of vehicles), but it may be inside the cab. Thanks

You could check your peddle box, i not long ago had mine crack, the crack flexed open when you push the cluctch down

Yeah, the adjustable powerband

keep in mind its US, in US dollars, and delivery from the states is murder. Did you happen to notice their disclaimer also, NO reponsiblilty for item not being delivered.

all i can find on it. Let's work through one... GGKBRTAR33VDAA---B The first digit defines the body type... In this case G for 2 door Coupe... (It's B for 4 door Sedan) The next 2 digits define the engine type and size (note: not the fact that it is NA or Turbo)... in this case GK for RB25DE(T) The next digit (4) defines the drive type... In this case B for 2WD... The next digit (5) is R across all R33's... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here... The next digit (6) defines the model spec... (eg: GTS, GTS25, GTS4, GTS25T/M, GTS25/S, GTR, etc...) In this case it is T for GTS25T/M + GTS25/S (note: we still don't know if it is NA or turbo yet) The next digit (7) defines the transmission... In this case A for 4 speed auto... (It's F for 5 speed manual) The next 3 digits (8, 9 & 10) define the Model Series... In this case R33 for (duh) R33... Now comes the tricky part... The next digit (11) defines the induction system... In this case it's V for Forced Induction... (It's E for EGI / NA)... Some further translation is required here... The next digit (12) can be either D or Z... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here... The next digit (13) is A across all R33's... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here... Shown below are all possible entries for the first 13 digits of the R33 Model Codes... Note that different years have different designations for the digit (mainly to cater for the GTR's and GTS4's)... R33 Model Codes (14-18) Erghh... So many options... The only one I have semi worked out is the last digit (18) which will be A if you have an Active LSD, B if you have ABS, and C if you have an Active LSD and ABS... There are heaps more options for digit 18 though... It appears digit 14 is mainly focused on the wheel and tyre sizes... It appears digit 15 is mainly focused on the electronic options (eg, ASCD (cruise), GT spoiler, etc) I am unsure what digit 16 is mainly focused on... It appears digit 17 is mainly focused on the AV options (eg, CD, MD, Stacker, etc...)

All it came up with is the info below. Obviosly need the vin for a compltete build date and so on.

You just need to bridge two terminals on the diagnostic link and it will flash the codes on the dash.

Fuel tank may pressurise a little on hot days

No problem, but maybe you need to change your ID

Sounds like your thermostat, it is easy to change.