Gareth87
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Posts posted by Gareth87
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Hi all,
Looking at upgrading my LS1 coils as I'm just about on the limit with them.
I want to go with the IGN - 1A coils but I'm seeing a few different brands. Gut feeling it telling me to go with the haltech version. However, I see Aeroflow advertise them as well and I don't want to end up buying the wrong part and ended up with wasted dyno time.
Can anyone shed some light on it?
Thanks in advance.
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Very nice! Hopefully it fits in the tunnel ok..
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All starting to come together! Can't you use the RB adapter kit rather than making one for the FJ? Should just need to machine the top holes to suit the FJ.
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Definitely keep the thread alive mate. Following with great interest. Where are you located. Would be keen to check it out as you progress.
Yes.. the Can performance GCU seems to be the go. A lot more sorted the the HTG so I hear.
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22 hours ago, Duncan said:
Can you put a large enough one way valve in the pump supply to stop drain back without impacting full noise flow?
I've looked into this and the answer I came up with was that the potential risk of restriction and causing engine damage was too much risk.
22 hours ago, Duncan said:Bluebirds must get driven much more frequently than Skylines 🤣
Haha. It's already 40yrs old and people look at me weird when it's cranking over for ages before starting..
22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:Given light and clean synthetic engine oil, you could do an experiment with a Facet fuel pump or similar to see if it will move enough to do the job.
I'm currently looking to see if an assembly lube pump hardwired in with work. Can't find the right pump yet..
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5 hours ago, r32-25t said:
Pull Belt off and turn pump with a drill, put belt back on and start car
Bit of a task to do every start up.. lol
4 hours ago, Duncan said:Do you have an option to overfill the oil enough to get to the level of the pump (without going above the windage tray), or remake the bracket to lower the pump?
No, pump is too high and lower control arm in the way unfortunately.
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:I could only imagine using a small transfer pump style thingo and a solenoid valve. Valve closed all the time, open when you run the pump to prime.
Can't imagine it would be fun to fit it all in though.
If the pump is small enough and doesn't even need to do much pressure. Just needs to fill the lines. Finding it hard to locate something to do that job..
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Been having this problem for years and I'm over it.
Have an FJ20 with external oil pump. The pump is mounted slightly higher than the sump and it has a -10 oil feed line to the front cover where the internal pump used to be.
Each start up, it rattles it's head off until oil pressure comes up.
My solution is to set a start delay in the ecu until it sees oil pressure. Problem with this, it takes ages to start each time as the longer it sits, the more prime it looses.
I looked at an accusump as a solution which would of course work, but are there any other fixes?
I've been looking at small electric oil pumps that i could fill the system with first but nothing seems specific for the problem.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
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Sorry for the slow reply..
I know exactly what you mean about using the steel in the strongest orientation. That was one of my considerations for going with such a chunky piece of steel.
I had to double check the photo of the deflection and yes, it does look like its bowing a lot.. but if you look very carefully, that's actually a shaddow.
It was barely any perceivable deflection. I'll measure it with my laser next time it's in the air.
As for stability, it's rock solid. I lifted it just off the ground and gave it an earthquake test before going higher.
I don't take chances with stuff like that!
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Problem resolved. Thanks for the help everyone.
Went with 2 lengths of 2.5m steel
125x75x6mm to use to reach the lift points. Works perfectly. Just need some caster wheels on the steel sections to move them into place a little easier.
I can lift a standard height car to 2m and my van to about 1.5m before hitting the portal frames.
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Ok. So I've taken everyones input and come up with the best option of a length of steel.. something like 100x75x3mm and sitting the rubber blocks on top of it.
Its 1950mm between mounting points on my van ans less on my datsun.
So the overhang is going to be less than 500mm over each end.. but being 1 length of steel and a large contact face in the middle. It will be certainly safe enough.
I'll pickup the steel tomorrow and post some results.
Thanks everyone
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9 hours ago, Duncan said:
I think I'm catching up....you mean the face of the lift is too short to get to both lifting points on the sills?
Yeah exactly!
7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:I would look at boxing in some small dimension I beam that you attach to the top of the lift to provide the extension you need. The boxed I beam to make it as stiff as possible and also twist resistant.
You'll want to come up with an easily installable/removable connection to the lift face so you don't have to leave them there. Something that you can trust to be firmly attached when in use.
Great idea. I'll most likely have to punch a hole through the face of the lift to get a fixing. However.. the I beam scenario might be ok as there is only a small over hang either side of the lift face needed to reach a lift point.
Need something like this but length ways
Thanks for the input everyone.
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Thanks lads! Been a work in progress. Had the FJ in my car since 2004.
As for the blocks. I actually have those, but the problem is that the lift face doesn't reach any of the lift points under the car. I need steel arms or something similar to reach under the car like a conventional 2 poster hoist.
Need some ideas on how to achieve this safely and neatly. Can't find anything out there..
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Hey all. Got myself a brand new in ground scissor lift, but I'm struggling for mounting points. The lift position doesn't quite reach my lift points.. and I'm definitely not sill lifting.
Has anyone made up some bars to attach to the lift tops or alternative lift methods when using a scissor before?
Thanks.
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Funny this thread has resurfaced.. I am going to do a log recording when I get a chance and I'll take the front bar off vs standard. I want to see if the added airflow changes things much. If so, I can put at least part of the problem down to airflow.
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Hey all,
Keen to know if there have been any further advances or anyone doing dct conversions yet?
I'm seeing more stand alone tranmission ecus around.. but not many conversions yet.
I posted last year about potentially doing this behind my FJ20 which currently has a 34 NEO box on it.
Surely the tech will become more available and cheaper with time.
Anyone?
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Custom made traction control ring to suit s13 4 stud hub.
If you stick the ring in the oven and the hub in the freezer for 15 mins, its slide over the factory machined edge with no welding or further fixing required.
This is a spare.. no longer required.
$100
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Custom made traction control ring to suit s13 4 stud hub.
If you stick the ring in the oven and the hub in the freezer for 15 mins, its slide over the factory machined edge with no welding or further fixing required.
This is a spare.. no longer required.
$100
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@TezGT-R that's certainly of interest. Hopefully once we see a few get going here in Aus, we'll have more info as well on various setups.
Certainly sounds like the new software will be a step forward
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7 hours ago, TezGT-R said:
I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.
The costs certainly add up.. like any mod I suppose.
I would be very interested to hear how closed loop GCU control would go. That would take out a massive element of getting things going.
The whole package is probably 2 years away from being a more common mod.
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1 hour ago, Butters said:
Unless you have a t56 with double overdrive this doesn't make a lot of sense. The CD009 is .79 and and rb25 is 0.81 on overdrive, so near the same.
The 6 gears are really nice to have a better spread of ratios from 1 to 5(1:1), Then still have an overdrive.
I have found for drag racing the 6 speed is slower due to the more gear changes, not yet tried launching in 2nd.
Amm how much are you expecting a DCT will cost ?
When I looked at it, in aus a used DCT box $4-7k. Conversion kit is $4k landed. Controller and etc was $3k.
So by the time its in the car , lets call it 15k+ DIY with a used box. Add $5k for someone to do it.
If you want better clutches, which yes you do ($3-5K) and a box refresh add another $3k.
Then you need tuning, which won't be quick or cheap.
Blink and you have spent $30k hahaha
Well... shit hey. Thanks for doing the budget for me.. looks about right to me! Add another 2k for incidentals and a tailshaft then we've got ourselves a realistic budget.
Looking like a sequential 6 speed is the way forward!
1 hour ago, BK said:But a DCT box does have synchros
You know what I mean... 🤣
This whole thing comes about because I'm surrounded by a bunch of mates with fast cars and I'm making the least power at 540hp 🤣.. it's a vicious circle!
I figure shedding weight and shifting faster is going to help my cause. I've spent stupid cash on it in the last 15 years.. this is probably the next venture.
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If I was to change from my 34 GTS box, I wouldn't go anything with synchros.
love the idea of something new or different, especially in my 40yr old Nissan Bluebird, but if its largely untested with not much info on it.. that's definitely a consideration.
Sequential boxes are just crazy money and while I'm on the outer limit of my setup at 600hp, a dct box would make it faster and more of a match to some bigger hp 6 cyls.. Same goes with a Sequential i guess.
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Great info, thanks for the feedback everyone. I would love to drive a DCT converted car just to see if it's worth the trouble or is it just better to outlay on a dogbox/sequential.
Time to do some research!
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Been looking into future gearbox options for a while now and while my brand new R34 GTS box is great.. it won't last forever.
I've got mates with dog boxes and while they're a logical next step, they aren't super friendly in some settings.
I've been looking into DCT boxes. There is a company in Norway that do the conversions parts for plenty of JDM engines and I'm keen to hear thoughts on it. It would be a pretty cool thing behind my FJ20 bluebird and price for all the parts including 7 speed BMW box is comparable to a 5 speed dog box.
Has anyone done it and if so.. is it worth it?
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@Kinkstaah just on the dyno sheet with 5 different power reading, the 495hp run was with the old turbo. You can see where the line comes on later.
They are smaller, yes, but marginally and it was the shape of the housing that were the problem.
Definitely keen on a better cooler, the mishi core certainly didn't impress me. I did a back to back run with intercoolers last year as well going from 450mm autobarn core to 600mm mishi core and made almost no difference.
Agreed
Drivability is chalk and cheese. This is lightyears ahead. The torque increase even on marginal boost is so much nicer at low revs
Thanks mate, I've worked hard on it over the years to build a tidy and fast street car, i will shroud that filter at some point, I've got a few ideas about using a remote airbox. I'll get onto it!
I think the intercooler is the biggest issue for air temps though.
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IGN-1A coils - real or copies.. what's the difference
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
Just checked it out, The shipping is nearly $200 AUD. I'm sure a local supplier on the GC will have stock of genuines. Thanks for your reply though.