DJSimmo

you can start the engine and run the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse or relay this will remove the pressure in the fuel system and then the car will stall.

Did you pull apart the sender and give it a clean? Also the gauge could be faulty. You can test with a potentiometer or by simply pulling apart the fuel sender and then plugging it back in turning the ignition on and moving the float up and down to see if the gauge moves. hope this helps.

Hey buddy thanks for the kind words. In regard to the fuel sender, it slides onto the same bracket as the fuel pump does. The fuel sender is mounted on the right of the fuel pump. Hold the fuel sender in a almost vertical / slanted position in parallel with the fuel pump and front of the fuel tank. To mount the sender to the bracket you need to find the mounting tab which sticks out from the fuel sender case and then match up the mounting tab with the steel bracket on the inside of the tank and then slide the sender from right to left on to the mounting bracket. it should click into place and be seated close to the pump. Good luck!

this is a nice ride ive seen it in action and it goes hard, buyer will not be dissapointed!

Hi Daniel Thanks for the offer, i would love the whole car and just having the seats would be dissapointing, im set on the nismo gtr's if i change my mind ill let you know Cheers!! Sime

Hey guys Im looking for a set of Nismo GTR seats Let me know if you have a set and might sell them cheers!

if those are r33 series 2 stock coilpacks i will take both sets Cheers!!

pictures & measurements of the oil cooler core plz

OP: is your R33 a Series 1.5 or Series 2? I have a red coolant temp sensor as well my part number on the sensor is.... A27-611 L00 This part number on the sensor does not seem to relate to any nissan part number in FAST but it does say JECS on the sensor and had the nissan symbol

ill take the nissan visors if they come with the clips and are still available

the modified comp housing with surge slot removed looks really good ill be ordering one when i get my op6 done

bumpo

yep sorry about the confusion! cheers sime

excellent point, yes 10 or less litres should show the low fuel light on the dash, however when my fuel sender was dirty and not working correctly my gauge needle would be below the E and the light would still not be on, then i would fill up and find that only roughly 35-40 liters went in. this is when I found out that the fuel sender does not run the low fuel light and that the low fuel light is run by a seperate sensor on the bottom left side of the fuel tank.

That is great news, ive also heard mounting the 040 lower in the tank is better and will help stop fuel starvation, and I can say its a great feeling knowing you can finally rely on the fuel sender again!

Glad to hear there was some helpful info in this thread

my sender did the same thing so it sounds like yours needs a good clean too. im still unsure if the r34 has the same style sender as the r33. only pull on the wires lightly as you could be pulling on the wrong wires which go to the really low fuel light sender on the bottom of the tank and you dont want to break that as the really low fuel light will always be on if you do break it.

ive had a few offers but am still looking for one let me know if you have one!

just recieved the fuel pump from Kais, was as described, excellent condition, well rapped, very pleased, top bloke! Good luck with the rest of your sale!!

one of these

anyone?

Let me know if you have one and how much your asking cheers simon

to suit which years? eary or late? blue back? or brown back?

There is a possability the HKS Camp 2 might work with an aftermarket ecu because HKS offer a CAMP 2 Universal Adaptor which has to be hard wired or soldered onto the ecu wires. Apparently the Universal Adaptor can pick up the following... SPEED, RPM, INJECTOR, and THROTTLE Check out the HKS CAMP 2 FAQ's http://www.hksusa.com/faq/?ID=3516