DanShirts

Pulled another earth wire from battery to ignitor and also jump it down to the aluminum rail that the coils bolt to. Remade some joints that looked questionable. That one wire measured 0. Went for a drive, no improvement. I borrowed a set of split fire coils. Still no improvement. I'm still going to get new battery leads, but I don't think my problem is with earths at this point. So I've been thinking.. Fuel pressure regulator? Leaky injector? Ignition signal from the ECU? CAS? I'll check all those out next weekend. Anything else I can try?

I wanted to go +25, But I couldn't find any that I liked. (You were responding to me, right?)

17x8+28 on 235/45/17 all around. No flair. No rub.

What GTR do you have? The R32 GTR doesn't have a 75A main fuse. Check the main battery cables. Check the grounds.

Mine had one of those in it too, it had the ends cut off and soldered together.. I don't know for sure, but I think it was the fuel pump resistor. Also, nice to see another Cef on this continent. That makes three that I know of.

Just talking to myself again... Spoke to an auto-elec. He says that the wire is OK to measure 0.5 because it looks like it provides ground to another device. I'm just reading the resistance of whatever that device is (probably a circuit in the ECU). Also, he said to replace the batter cables (because it's cheap) and to test the coils and coil loom after the car is warmed up. What an eye opener to talk to someone who really understands electronics. Any other thoughts?

Nah, you can wire one up. It wont be very accurate, but you can get some disco lights going on. (And girls like the disco lights.) A little searching will help you.

What if his is stuck open/closed or leaking? That happened to me.. I'm using the massive Type-R single now. It was cheaper than buying 2 smaller ones.

Just don't turn off your car! Open up the manual for your alarm and see if there is a way to re-connect the remote. It might be called 'remote pairing' or 'remote synchronizing'. I haven't seen any intermittent problems like this. But my S14 remotes would stop working if the batteries went flat and I didn't change them right away. (You might get better answers in the alarm section.)

To be honest, I have no idea! I live next door to a shop. I fix their computers and they do free oil changes.. I just know it's a full synthetic and it's not purple.

There is a back wire coming from the main engine loom that earths to the ignitor housing. It ohms out to 0.5. Everything else is good. I don't see it on the wiring diagrams. Any idea where it goes?

I use it in my R32 GTR. Trans and both pumpkins. I get the occasional 4th gear crunch, but it was worse before I switched.

It is a mostly stock 89 R32 GTR. Basic bolt on mods; intake, zorst, gutted cat, boost is at 1 bar. Here we go.. I've been having this problem off and on since I bought the car 8 months ago. It misfires below 4k rpm AND there is boost. No boost, no miss. It might be missing above 4k, I just stop feeling and hearing it around that point. It is also running slightly rich. I don't have a wide band so I can't exactly how rich. Idle bounces a little from 850-950. Since I bought the car I have changed: plugs (twice), fuel filter, ignitor, air filters, turbos (stock R33), all exhaust gaskets, Lambda (O2) sensors, PCV, ECU, some broken vacuum hoses, and all fluids. The first set of plugs I used were NGK BKR7E. They looked a little sooty after 6 months. I replaced them with NGK BCPR7ES. Tried gapping at 1.0, 0.8, and 0.6. It runs best at 0.8. No boost leaks. I have cleaned & resoldered the MAFs. TPS measures 0.47v at 0% throttle and 3.96v at 100%. Coils ohm out between 0.8 and 0.9 and I didn't see any cracks them. I swapped coils around and pulled coils one at a time. It doesn't seem to be any one cylinder. I have done a motorvac on it (kind of like running straight injector cleaner). Every time I cleaned or replaced a part, it helped. But it didn't clear up. I'm at the end of my mechanical ability. What can I do next? Sorry if this has been covered before. I searched, but everyone else fixed misfires by cleaning the MAFs or closing boost leaks.

Ah, automatic.. Have fun!

I think this is everything. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Sounds like you're doing it right. Did you get the screw behind the ash tray?

I don't even want to talk about all the hoops I had to jump through for registration. Lets just say I don't want to go through that again. Ever.

Sure does! But they were free. And that's all I can afford right now!

Right hand drive isn't a problem. We have crazy emissions and safety laws that take a large mountain of paperwork and money to comply with. I still haven't been able to get the R32 registered.

Most people think it's just a funny looking car but there are a few that are almost hostile about it.. I usually get harassed by the V8-Muscle-Car guys when I go to the track. But they are beginning to respect RB motors!

I've got an 89 A31 (and an 89 R32). Cefiros are rare in the US. I only know of one besides mine. I plan on drifting it. Some info: Factory 5-speed Cheap ebay front mount ic Custom exhaust Bosch 040 fuel pump KSRom ECU - Was already in the car, don't know the tuning Custom one-piece drive shaft Cusco coilovers on the front & Tein on the back. - Getting replaced with Powered-by-Max coilovers Z32 brake & 5-lug conversion Braided brake lines Stock r32 wheels on the front & 17x8 +30 Work Equips on the back

Those look great! What size & offset? What tire size? How much cutting/rolling did you have to do?

You might want to do some more research, but my best guess on an O2 would be a Z31 turbo or an S13. The connector will probably be different, but you can switch out pins. I used a 96 J30 oil filter on my RBs. I think it's the same as the S14 KA too.

Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong! Thanks for all the help!

One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running. Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.