DanShirts

I would start by making sure all the fuses are good and that they all have a solid connection. Use a test light or a multimeter. The little black spot on your dash is a light sensor (I think), that is what makes the autos work. I've never had any problems with mine, but it might be worth climbing under there and checking it out. Test the switch and the wires. You can probably use the skyline wiring diagram, should be similar if not the same. As for the red brake light, top up your brake fluid. I have a ghost in my car too. The right side head light goes out sometimes. If I get out and tap on the glass, it comes back on. Maybe I should take my own advice.

Your going to have a hard time finding a matching set of locks. My boot lock was different than the rest of the car. I just took it to a locksmith and had him re-key it.

Following up.. Looks like S14 hubs on mine. Swapped over to stainless brake lines. I used an S13->Z32 brake conversion kit. Fit perfect.

Looks like I have stock uprights, S14 hubs, and Z32 brakes. I'm not sure about the hub (or the upright) so I ordered S14 and Z32 wheel bearings. Find out tomorrow which one fits.

Voltage regulator is toast. I say rebuild it. Should be pretty cheap and most places can do it same day if you pull it off the car.

Lift up the back of the car and push/pry on everything. Especially look at the upper strut mount. It goes between the body and the top of the strut. A mate of mine had to change those on his 33 gts. If nothing is loose or worn out, grab a torch, pull off the boot liner, and see if something fell down into the inner fender. My jack handle fell down in there once and rattled horribly on every little bump. I pulled my hair out for a week before I found out what it was.

My cef was converted in Japan. The papers say it has z32 brakes. I'm doing a wheel bearing and a break job next week. I can get pics of everything if you want to see it.

Did something (maybe the jack?) fall into the inside of your fender?

I use vg30 (z32, a32, wd21, etc) ignitors on all my RBs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122137

Maybe.. Sit in the car and lock/unlock both doors from the lock button on each door. If the opposite side locks/unlocks, then you don't need any. If the passenger side works when you operate the driver side then you can use one actuator in the drivers door. When it opens/closes it will cause the passenger side to unlock/lock. Actuators are (or should be) fairly cheap. I would just let the installer use two if they really want to. A little confusing, but you will understand if you just try it.

If it's anything like the GTR oil filter then you need a double-jointed left-handed asian woman to get those off. If you don't have one of those, try the screw driver method.

Looks right to me. I printed this list off and stuffed it into the fuse box. http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=3140678

I have no idea.. I'm still trying to figure out how to wire my aircon.

Some ideas: Is your TPS adjusted correctly? You have checked for boost leaks, right? Do you have all the vacuum lines in right places? I've put hoses in the wrong places before. Get a diagram and check everything. My Cef idles high too, around 1600. I can't figure out why so I just drive it anyway..

Is there a part number on it? If it does, fast is your friend.

Get a really long 17mm socket and cut a slot in it. Or get a crows foot. I've done both. It takes forever to cut hardened steel but it also takes forever to finagle a crows foot on the sensor.

Bumping. Am I looking in the right direction? MAFs bad or is there another reason why they measure low? I just want a thumbs up before I buy MAFs.

All the injectors look equally dusty. I never noticed before, but one looks like the wires have been repaired. I don't know anyone that can swap mafs with me.

I changed the fuel pump in a GTR last week and a GTS about month ago. The GTR pump sits in a cradle that is attached to the bottom of the tank. The GTS pump is attached to the sender and hangs from the top. You might be able to use the GTS sender and pump in the GTR tank if you take the cradle out.

The service manual says the MAF signal wire should be 1.1v at idle. Mine jumps around from 0.92-0.98v. Loom wiring looks good. Are they stuffed? Stock ECU. I have reset it. No codes either. How do I check my injectors? Just pull them out and look? (Is that a stupid question?

Probably a wheel bearing, tie rod, or ball joint (or could be anything else that uses a bush). I have a bad wheel bearing and tie rod on the right side of my a31. Ticks like crazy. I'm not exactly sure how to describe what to look for but here it goes: Jack the car up and try to make the wheel wobble or tilt. You will want to push on it from different angles. Don't be shy with it, you can push hard. If it does shift around, look under the car and see what part is loose.

No boost leaks, I used one of those pressurized boost leak testers. I will read the FSM an do some diagnostic on the AFMs. Although I have cleaned and resoldered them already. Got it started and limped back home. I swapped in the new fuel pump. It runs way better. Probably another 5-10kw, but it still misses.

Update! Took the car to the parts store to pick up a new fuel pump. Only about 2k away. On the way back she back fired out the exhaust worse than I have ever seen before. Then stalled. I'm only 1/2k away from my house so I start it up and try to limp back. It only gets about 30m and stalls again. This time it won't start again. Did the obvious: checked connections, battery, fuel, etc. This car is really starting to frustrate me. Any advice?

Sounds similar to my problem. Have you read this thread? Misfire Boost@4500-5500 RPM

Check the vacuum hose for the sensor. The sensor is on the drivers side of the firewall. The hose connects to the very back of the intake. Kind of by the #6 injector. I had the same problem. The hose on mine cracked and blew off right after I bought the car.