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Hey guys, I have a TS3B right now. I just moved downtown and it's getting annoying to drive the car in everday stop and go traffic. I also heard clutches with no damper are harder on the tranny. I'm going with an engine rebuilt and EFR 83/74. I will need a clutch that can take the torque and power while beeing *as gentle as possible * on the gearbox. What would you recommand ? a TS2BD ? would the new GT twin plate series be able to handle the torque ( Os say they drive near like stock.. ) ? Love you guys! Thanks for sharing your experience

do you mean we shouldn't buy tomei cams because of bad quality controls on their lifter or because they might not have them in stock ? what spec are your camshaft? I wasn't aware of UE before this thread, their website is under construction and on their facebook page , all recents post are about american big build. so it must be the reason why not everyone knows about these cams. However, I had a facebook conversation with them and all they offered me was some tomei or mine's camshaft, nothing custom here. and when I asked them about the complete kit, as per piggaz 's recommandation. they never replied to my message. Either I don't have the right shop, they dont make custom camshaft anymore or they think I'm not a serious buyer..

read previous page

I already sent an email to UE Needing stronger spring is cool with me, I wanted to replace them already

Regarding the PROS, yes. regarding the CONS, not that i recall, but now I got my answer

Like anything in the car world, theres always pro and cons. So what's the cons of using procam 260 10.8mm Vs. poncam 260 9.15mm ?? I believe OP and I want quicker spool so we should both go for 260 and higher lift possible for best gain. Since both OP and I have to rebuild the head, I guess the difference in fitting these procam Vs poncam is negligible no ?

http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbo-kit/nissan-rb26det-efr-external-wg-twin-scroll-turbo-kit-1.html Tial Q blowoff. Well.. i guess its my little ricer-side, but I really enjoy my blitz atmo BOV. so if the difference is negligible, I'm happy about it and might go on and order a new BOV or keep my Blitz since i already like the sound.

I see Fullrace sell the TIAL Q BOV in their EFR turbo kit.. Would an external BOV kill some of the response Vs. the OEM bov found on the EFR ?

Thank you for this thread, I was going to ask the same question. Difference is I have a rb26 with 83/74. So you guys reckon the ''PROCAM 260 10.8mm lift'' a better choice versus my Poncam Type-B 260 9.15mm ?? I need to know because I'm bulding the head so I don't care about cam not fitting, we'll work it out. I thought the lift was what make the idle lumpy and rought ? I guess it's the duration then ?

well.. i have an used ats1.5 std laying around in my garage.. i will use that.

Anyone experimented a problem with the clutch fork, you believe it's a good solution ? I actually never heard about it before browsing this website.. https://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=14924

Yeah so unless, I find a great deal on a quaife rear diff, i will buy the front and put the used ATS 1.5 there . thanks

so it's a done deal. Buying a 1.05 Btw, did your mate posted his result/comparaison somewhere on the net, I couldn't find any rb26 with a 0.92 from my research. Will gladly post result when I have them ( in about 6 months considering where I live lol)

my friend posted that on -5s ( poncam type-b, 3.5inch,rb26,94octane), you think a 83/74 1.05 can achieve that same level of spool while making more power ? or else i will stick to the 0.92 a/r lol

Just though some of you would be interesting in seeing detailing outside of AUS Cheers guys! Same veyron, video done after the detailing:>

maybe its all hype, who knows ^^ But what I do know is that my car drives a lot better with most sensor replaced and new ECU.. so I'm now a believer that sensor( and better one) can have a huge effect on the driveability of the car.

Sorry I wasn't clear lol ! I meant, for Aftermarket ECU, like a haltech, motec or any other ecu actually that use a wideband not the stock narrowband. I was interesting in upgrading to this new sensor to have a better tune but it appears the lsu4.9 is not compatible with the lsu4.2 so i cant swap this new sensor with my actual wideband on my haltech unit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see the use of using this new gauge/sensor since my ECU will read the 4.2 sensor. I rather see what my ECU see rather than my ECU read something and I see something ''more accurate'' with the new PLX. Does that make anymore sens ? lol

PLX came out with a new wideband gauge.. the biggest factor is the new bosch LSU4.9 sensor http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6G4 The idea is cool.. but how useful it is if, for exemple, most, if not all, aftermarket ECU read through the the old LSu4.2 sensor. It would be cool if the ECU could take this improved signal to offer a better tune. What's your take on this ? over-rated or should it actually provide a better tune ? As for now, I prefer to have a gauge that tell me what the ECU read also ( instead of having a gauge more accurate than the ECU's signal)

EFR single hahaha go read the thread.. im in the same situation as you.

I apologize for being annoying in advance I rather save 1000$ish and put it toward a Quaife front diff ( my engine is coming out this winter). However, I also know, 6 month later, I will regret not paying an extra 1000$ to get an extra 75whp so I rather do it right the first time. ( At the same time, I gotta ask if 700whp ish isn't too hard for a standard 5speed gearbox..) Spool : How much of a difference is there between the 0.92 and 1.05 ? Are we talking something like 150rpm or we're talking 400-500rpm ? Power: I know the 1.05 can make 700whp, you did it, but you also had 3.5 inch ( I have 3 inch) and you have E85 ( I only have 94+WMI), so given the same 1.05ar , shouldn't I be more in the 650whp mark Vs your 700whp ? In other words, I'm unsure if my setup will be able to make ''full-use'' of the 1.05ar. Thanks a lot! ( I rather write it here than PM so other can benefit from the answer)

I'M afraid the cost of rebuilt will be close to the cost of the Quaife ( seems like tranny shop are are in my area so they charge a lot knowing they have the ''monopole'' no shit.. its like 1000$ to rebuilt with the 300$ kit..)

I'm sold on the quaife front diff on a BNR32.. Right now I'm driving a OEM rear diff which is , most likely, 25 yr old! I have a ATS 1.5 way LSD lying around ( I put it for sale but no one bite the bullet yet..). Should I install this diff or sell it and buy a quaife in the rear OR just run the oem one ? thanks!

your 8374 is the 1.05 right ? so should the 0.92 spool a tad quicker then ? As for your question, I said in the previous post, we only have acces to 94 octane and I added WMI, so I imagine 27psi should be approx. the max I could go without being in the danger zone. thank you

I'm afraid, I'm too poor to stroke it, rebuild/port the head, change the expensive oil pump and go single

Here I am again, I took 2 weeks to read the whole 94 pages.. Long story short : RB26 Head need a rebuilt, I was leaning toward a RB28 + billet 60mm on my twins ; A few friends told me it would weaken my block and would push the turbos to their limits = not so ''safe'' and reliable option. They told me to stay rb26 and put a single... more reliable and the single won't be pushed to the limits., I like the idea, so I want a EFR!! RB26 Forged piston + type-B poncam ( I could swap them if needs to be..), I would really prefer to keep my 3 inch exhaust ( it's quiet and cops never give me trouble). IT WOULD BE TUNED ON 94 octane + WMI (aquamist kit). I want response ( I used to drive GT-SS and somewhat missed the quicker response the gt-ss had Vs. the -5s) and I reckon IWG 0.92 would spool quicker than 1.05 and would be a good load cheaper! - Considering I only have acces to 94+ WMI.. I don't think going any higher than 26-27psi is recommanded, Agree on this ? So which EFR, should provide me the best response/power at 23-27psi on a 2.6L ? is 81/90 83/74 0.92 IWG ? ( I would upgrade to the Turbosmart IWG EFR option) I'm hesiting because sub-boy did 640whp on a rb30 with this turbo.. so with 400cc less and 3 inch exhaust vs 3.5, should I be expecting approx. 600whp out of it ? or even less.. (without beeing a dynoqueen, I somewhat wished to break the 600whp marks ( I was at 573whp with my -5s), but ''transient response'' is still more important in my book than the bragging number)