cobrAA

ceramic clear coat need to be baked to take full effect and if the shop was not professional enought to clean his buffer mark on your trim, i really doubt you got a ceramic clear coat.

all this and no EFR ?

Edited - Admin.

are the nismo considered factory reg ?

slight off topic, for non e85, would a veyron fuel pump be higher flowing than the walbro 460lph ?

i have 10k new oem coil, with 10k new loom and new HPI6 ( haltech) ignitor.. still if the ls2 offer better spark than i guess it could make a difference.. Anyways, let's stay on track guys!

im not worried about that, tbh. Once my choice is set on the camshaft, one of the last few things to think about will be to go ls2 coil or not lol

open, rebuilt, cryo-treat the stuff and seal it back. I thought about a gearset, but they are too expensive for something that could brake just as quickly as the oem thing. ANyways we're drifint away from the interesting subject we had before!

I asked them camshaft spec card and they never replied to my request so I lost interest in unigroup's cam.

a great all-around GTR focusing toward response OR, in other word, I want to be able to keep up with my friends 's R35 when we go for a little cruise ( I went from stock, to gt-ss, to -5s in the last 4 years). I'm not a dyno-queen. I'm sure the EFR 83/74 can get me to 600-650whp (dynapack 2wd) territories easily. which is enough for me, now I wish to make my setup as responsive as possible. I think the 252, 9.15mm will be the choice. selling my type-B shouldn't be too hard. Off topic : on my to-do list, I still wish to replace my ts3b for a Coppermix Comp, my sard 700cc for ID1000, spline gear for my oem n1 gear, front lsd, 3.5 inch catback for my 3 inch catback, mechman 170amp for the oem one. type R for my type-B. Surely, I'm forgetting stuff lol

Some people are hard lol!! This build wasn't expected ( engine was rebuilt 10k ago, timing belt skipped and im back to square one.. already put 6k toward the EFR combo, considering i gotta pay labour + all new valvetrain component), I'm getting close to my budget lol Sometimes I tell myself, better to have a nismo, than nothing ( in the case of the front lsd, for instance) I still love you aussies

I wanted to go quaiffe ( i know you have high respect with the quaife), but I can have a brand new nismo for 400$ less than the quaife and i spotted a cusco MZ ( scared it might be too harsh for daily since its rated for track) for 600$ less.. I'M already sorted with the rear, i will be using a 1.5 ats ''regular''

Thanks guys, I will email the tech again to know what's their definition of this split technology. However, considering my budget is not unlimited, maybe that extra 500-600$ would be better spent on head porting or put toward a front lsd Vs. tomei 252 9.15mm. Just a thought

For anyone searching throught this thread in the future, I asked kelford for a very responsive rb26, efr 83/74 EWG with civile idle because I mostly drive the car downtown ( lots of stop and go, can be stuck in traffic at anytime, etc). Here's their answer : Very nice choice on turbo and manifold mate, I love those EFR's, for your package I'd be looking at the 182-S cams mate http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=41337#specs along with our KVS15 drop in spring. These don't have too much duration so that you'll be waiting all day for power which is what it sounds like you're in to and they have 10.5mm of lift which in an RB is nothing to be scoffed at. They have our split intake technology as part of the deal so you get increased efficiency and torque over standard set of the same specs. These along with that awesome turbo of yours should make for a very potent little street package mate, with great response and midrange torque, but still have the ability to stretch its legs out when you feel the need 1) Anyone heard about this split intake technology ? 2) comparaison 182-S ... nett valve lift 10.5mm at 1mm, duration is 236 Tomei: type-R net valve lift 8.7mm at 1mm, duration is 216 Procam 270 10.8mm.. net valve lift is 10.4mm and at 1mm, duration is 237. Like other said, theres more than simply the number, anyone heard of this split intake tech ? thank guys!

What can be considered as high duration ? Is it dependant on the engine make or theres some sort of concensus ? You went with TYPE-R, if you could, wouldn't you have prefered if it came with a higher lift ? like 10.25 ?

I will be emailing kelford later today, thanks for the info. And sorry I pissed off lithium that much... Lots of info, thanks guys! Bottom line is we can't really compare any camshaft from different brand because they are all measured differently.

that's interesting!! That would means theres no such thing as too small duration ( but then again, we can't make bold statement on simply one exemple.. lol). how big is your exhaust, intake piping ? I see HKS paired their gtrs ( which should flow about 80lbs of air just like the EFR 83/74) with 264 cams ; http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/turbo/actuator/gtrs/index.html

I'm buildin the engine in 4 month so i can wait I did check kelford already mate, you agree the type-B are not the best cam out there ? Tomei also say it will provide good responce and low-end same as Kelford. so why would I trust kelford's marketing more than tomei ? I'm doubting a 272 degree camshaft can be classified as low end power. Like you said, I'm no expert, but I think the general concensus is that the higher the duration is, the power range move to the left and idle is lumpier. ( 2 things I don't want). Hence why I wanted to open this discussion so hopefully some peoples can shed some light on these. If type-R works well with -7s. maybe the Type-B are actually a good match to the higher flowing turbo I have.. I don't know, maybe the Type-R can make the 83/74 spool even quicker too..

I don't mind selling my poncam type-b and ordering new one..Seems like the type-R are under-looked and actually a better set than the B.

True the poncam Type-B came with my engine. I don't think anything over 260 will do me any good since I'm also caring for clean idle and good response low-mid. I already ordered the full Supertech overhaul head kit, all I'm missing is the cam ( or keep mine). I also care for ''reliability'' ( if i'm allowed to use that term with my build lol..). So, if the general concensus is that anything higher than 10.3mm will prematuraly wear my valvetrain, I will stay max 10.3mm.

And I was done for the day...................................... Well not exactly.......... 1 hour later after leaving the bodyshop. this happened: f**k !!!!!! So basicly, we had to respray the car twice to get it done, I already worked 5-6 hours into the paint and then comes this accident... The damage ? - corner light - headlight - rebar - leaking intercooler - destroyed bumper - bended frame Someone offered to repair the fiberglass bumper, he said he would do the rought part and then a bodyshop would just have to sand it and put some body filler and prep it: Well.. after doing 3 different bodyshop, not one wanted to work with this bumper, they all said the repair was too rought and not worth going over. they would have to start over.. Oh great! More time and money wasted. Then someone offered to trade a headlight to help the owner repair his car. Next thing we knew is that Nissan decided to make 2 different type of headlight in the little 5 yr timespan the R32 existed. As you can see here, notice the DRL not the same and one take H3C while the other take H1: So while the headlight were out, I was asked to paint the inside of the light black instead of chrome to achieve a meaner look: Looking prettier isn't ? It took me about 5 hours to do.. remove the cover, polish inside the cover with a glass polish, polish the outside with a glass polish and glass polishing pad, sand the chrome and give multiple coat of paint, then I had to re-seal the cover with urethane we use at my shop for windshield. You think we were done hen!??! Well no... i left the headlight on my drying machine and went to grab my camera to take some pictures, when I was in my room I heard a big '' smash''.... yes... one headlight fall off the drying machine and the cover being glass.. broke again!!! Believe it or not.. I had to supply another glass cover because it was totally my fault.. Basicly, I didn't make a penny doing this mod.. Rebar was bought at a JDM shop, Intercooler were upgraded to a bigger Greddy unit, corner light were replaced for a pair of smoked clear corner by jdmgarage. Now into the bend frame... we went to a bodyshop i don't wish to name on the south shore of montreal ( but maybe I should...) and they took the car 2 months to fix the frame... Here's how the car came back to the bodyshop: Hood hinge could barely close, headlight was still 1 inch pushed inside the hood. nothing aligned right, huge gap between the headlight and corner light.. What we latter found out is that they simply shimmed the fender and other parts of the body to make it ''close'' but that it!! What a f**kin shame... and they call them professional bodyshop... oh and they also did this beautiful glue job free of charge........ In the mean time, the rear bumper got damaged from someone.. maybe at the bodyshop! So imagine how the owner felt ; He used to have a uber-clean skyline and out of a sudden, he get 2 respray because the first one isnt done right. Then, he try to fix the bumper but have to be redone, get his headlight done and then by accident i smash one, then he get his frame fixed and learn that he have to get it redone... what a shitty year!! Beside maybe this funny moment lol.. We shared a pic bumper-less with a Veyron So the car went into storage like that.... Part 1 done... stay tuned for part 2 ( which is what was done for 2014!)

So... what happened since 2010 when this thread/car won best of show thread from Autogeek's staff ? Well.. I simply maintained the car while the car attended some car show. The car had little respray due to new addition like greddy rear spat and M3 mirror style. I had to match the orange peel with the rest of the car but nothing major. In 2011-12, Chemical guys gave us a free pot of Chemical Guys Celeste dettaglio V2 to thanks us for letting them use some of our pictures for their new ads. Cool! Another ''award'' from this detail And there comes 2013... CATASTROPHE!! The car had his fender rolled.. However 2 fender out of 4 cracked.. leaving paint cracked and not looking too pretty.. the rear spat fitting done by the bodyshot wasnt too pretty... Long story short, about 40% of the car got resprayed! So, I didn't get to detail the car before the respray was done. Make sens right ? Then.. the day the respray happened, the color-match was HORRIBLE!!! I mean seriously horrible... So, the painter agreed to re-do the job and apologize. However it took 3 weeks due to vacation and busy week. fast forward 3 weeks later.. I finally got to see the car repainted correctly, but with nasty orange peel : If you don't know what orange peel are, they are pretty common when you get bodyshop work done on your car, you will get these kind of reflection from the paint. Sometimes it's worse than other and depending on the color of the car it show less or more. So think about an orange and how wavy the peel is.. and now look at these pictures: Look closely at the reflection of the wall and the sky on the trunk.. can't you see the reflection is wavy and not clear ? And now... does one side appears to be MUCH MORE clear than the other ? And now here's a close up... orange peel : No orange peel ( or very minimal) crystal clear reflection : To achieve this kind of finish, we need to go through an exhaustive process that takes hours to achieve. We first need to wet-sand the paint using a ''coarse'' grit ( coarse for finishing paint but not coarse if you were to perform bodyshop job like grinding paint!) to actually level the paint by knocking off the peel effect on the paint. Imagine the paint as a mountain.. every high spot is actually what we call the peel/wavy effect. What I need to do is sand those mountain/high spot to level the paint so that I obtain a paint that doesn't have any high-spot. Like this: After that you will realize that some contamination might have stuck INTO the paint.. that's what we call ''grain''. It's actually small dust particle that get trap on the paint during the paint curing inside the paint booth. So far from what I saw.. no matter how hard the bodyshop try to avoid them, they're will always be a few trap on the paint. To correct this, you need to use another speciality tools with coarser grit paper that will knock these grits individually: ( this process can be very long!) Once everything is done.. meaning the orange peel is removed and we achieved an uniform ''matte'' looking paint, it's time to refinish the paint using a finer coarse paper. Usually these paper will have a foam backing so they will contours the mountain instead of ''knocking them'' and leveling them. The problem with the first and second step is that the paint is very hazy/matte looking. In order to bring back the shine, you need to refinish the paint ; this means that the finer grit will be able to remove the coarser grit I just put on the paint. ( ie: If you have #1000 grit, you need a #2000 grit to remove the #1000 grit and then, you could use a #3000 or #5000 grit to remove the #2000 grit you created before). So this is how the paint looked after a #3000 grit pass: Remember how it looked once fully polished ? Oh gosssshh!! isn't that pretty ? Some ferrari and uber-expensive car don't even have that kind of clarity in their paint! As you can see, the problem with wet-sanding is not to level the paint or remove the orange peel, the real challenge ( and this is what set a part the real detailer to the ''other'') is to finish the paint to a PERFECT finish without leaving any compounding haze, small dust particle, pigtail, sanding mark etc. So after I was done with the trunk, I started working the rear fender:

Well.. he like to cut the bs and cut in stuff that is not really worth it ( but worth it to his point of view) hence why im looking for other point of view lol.

Good evening gentleman ! 1) I spoke with my engine builder yesterday and he told that the higher lift camshaft is slightly over-rated. He told me I should see a gain of about 10-15whp by going to a 10.25mm Vs. 9.15mm. If thats the case, I don't see all the fuzz about high +10mm lift which result in high cost to fit/shim and more wear on the head for so little gain. 2) For those who don't know, I'm going for an EFR 83/74 1.05, would a 250-256 duration work with that combo or the powerband will go down too quickly in the 6.5k rpm ? Right now, i have TYpe-B.. I was thinking going PROCAM with 260 and 10.25mm lift, but I don't think it's worth it for a slight gain of 15whp ( when you are already making 650whp) and higher wear on the valvetrain. I looked at camshaft and I came up with a few choices : Mine's : 252 with a 10.05mm ( but they are 1600..) HKS: 256 8.7mm OR 264 with 10mm Tomei : Procam ( 252 with 9.15mm, the most similar setup to the mine's) OR 260 10.25 procam Jun: 256 with 9.7mm OR 248 with 9.15mm OR 264 with 10.5mm Kelford: offer custom cam for 900$usd ( I could ask them for a copy of the mine's for twice cheaper) OR 264 with 9.2mm Brian crower and camtech doesn't offer anything new the others don't already. As you can see, I did my research, but looking for other output than simply the one from my engine builder. Forums are great for that Cheers!

Considering full-race worked very closely with BW.. you can see that geoff rate their IWG very higly and a worhwhile upgrade to the factory one. I get your point, but I still think turbosmart is not a rubbish company so their advice can be taken seriously.