tridentt150v

I thought he couldn't do this method, not enough exposed stud left, but I agree is works very good if you can do it.

If its really stuck, be very careful not to snap an ezi out or hammer in stud remover off in your drilled hole cos then your up the creek........no drill or dremel will touch them [they will slowly and using heaps of them, but you'll end up gouging the thread and parent material because it is way softer than the ezi out metal].

factory cruise or aftermarket???

more likely to be overheating with the a/c on. Get your radiator flushed out and new coolant put in, that will clean it up

comp tests are better done when the motor is warmed up anyway, who drives around on a cold motor

your in Dubbo so no thread doctor or spark erosion I'm guessing? Try slowly increasing your drill size and using a dremel with a tungsten bit on it. Once you have it thinned right out, use a tap and re tap the hole [lots of swearing, beer and patience]. You need to get it thin so you can follow the same thread in when you re tap.

sard or nismo injectors and a Vipec or second hand PFC and a tune and you'll get 230-250rwkw no probs. So around $2.5-3K and your there. Not sure about the exhaust either? But easy mods really.

what fuel???

air hose, not a bad kit for casual users, not a trade item [i had one similar and it was OK].

Will have another 6 jobs in South West NSW and several more scattered over the rest of the state. Temporary full time until June 30 2010. But some jobs will end up full time permanent. Look in SEEK website, search on Natural Resource Officer (Hydrometric) Otherwise the selection criteria is basically the same, one thing, they are now stipulating tertiary eds, but I'd give it a try even if you don't have them. We only got 3 applicants for the last one, so I don't see how they can fill 6 when you are flat out filling one. The below is only a cut and paste and could have errors, so use the advertisement when you find it, not what is below. This is just a heads up!!! ________________________________________________________________________________ _____________ The position is will be listed on several web sites and in several papers. Look for it next week. Job is 50/50 field office, and you get to play with some high tech toys and cruise around in a Landcruiser from Canberra to the SA border. Theres one position Buronga, one Leeton, and four Tumut. Job Summary Agency Name NSW Office of Water Job Classification Miscellaneous Professional Officer GS/Grade 1 Location South West NSW Employment Status Temporary Full-Time Vacancy Ref Job Reference No TBA Closing Date Friday, TBA Total remuneration package to: $72K ($42K-$67K) approx. Collection & management of surface water, ground water & other associated hydrometric data. Assist in supporting NRM strategies, water sharing plans, monitoring & compliance programs. Assist in maintenance & testing of hydrometric network equipment. Selection Criteria Appropriate Certificate, Diploma or other Tertiary Qualification and/or extensive knowledge/skills associated with the function and responsibility of the position. Good numeric and computer skills with demonstrated capacity to collect, interpret, archive and disseminate hydrometric field data. Ability to follow procedures and work carefully and accurately with numerical data including the capacity to implement quality assurance programs and procedures. Good written and oral communication skills as well as problem solving skills. Ability to swim (documentary evidence will be required), row a boat, work at heights and occasional heavy lifting and to work safely outdoors and in isolated areas. Mechanical, electrical or electronics aptitude. Ability to work independently and in teams including an ability to prioritise and plan activities. Current drivers' licence. Notes This position will require independent and lone work in isolated areas, overnight stays and extended periods away from base (sometimes at short notice). Inquiries Daniel Hannon (02) 6941 2249

A 'de' RB25 may not take the same coils or have the same loom as a 'det', the spark needed for forced induction has to be stronger otherwise it gets blown out. Do your originals look like the aftermarket ones? Do they have the same shape and size? And if the mounting holes don't line up properly [as you stated] then I'd say that is a dead giveaway, I have a SII and installed splitfires and the mounting holes lined up exactly, no bodgy fit up required.

water pumps are not the same, but they can all be interchanged and used on any model. The RB30 ones [which are common cos of the commonwhore] are available just about everywhere. When you install there is one bolt that you don't use [just keep it in your kit for later] because the holes don't line up at that one point, it doesn't affect the water pumps operation. I've got one like this and have had it on for several years [its part of my future RB30 upgrade plans......lol].

Of you could get it sandblasted and powdercoated for say $10????

wrong coils for the motor you have, some need an ignitor box, some don't

If its working, if you get it checked and its fine, no problem...........the noise, live with it, you could buy a dozen fuel pumps and they could all be just as noisy, some aren't but most are.

Sounds like a faulty sender for the light, when they go they are usually stuck on, they short out in the body. I'd go to a workshop and get them to check your oil pressure, but if your gauge is showing 2 to 4 [which is about right] then I'd say you have nothing to worry about - but get it checked!!!! If its the oil light sender, around $20 will get you a new one. By the way they are generally - not always, but generally - set up to turn on at 7psi [0.5kg/cm2] or less. So if you don't make 7 psi then it will be on.

this has been covered to death, try searching

WD 40 won't be permanent, there are rust inhibitors that you can use that would be better, but I'd clean it up and use a paint brush and Galmet or Kill Rust or some such.

It was hit on the left so possible they were not in the wrong ie no suspension. Sad to see, at least the airbag worked.

He prefers the lighter blue colour of the ACT plate???

HKS cast low mount, one of the better flowing systems in tests, its cast so less likely to suffer from cracking, I was going an external gate, and pretty much everything stayed where it had to, didn't have to relocate anything, and I didn't have to wait 6 months.

and assuming that all else is OK,,,,,,,regulator, filter, injectors, fp harness/wiring, turbo type, other fruit, etc etc. So if your existing fuel pump is OK, then no gain, just reliability and ability to upgrade or lift your power output [more mods] and know that the fuel pump is able to cope: If your existing fuel pump is faulty and all the above are OK, then gain: If your existing fuel pump is faulty and any one of the above is faulty, then no gain. Its the 'weakest link in the chain' parable. The amount of gain depends on how bad the old pump really was, if it wasn't going at all then 100% gain.

Likely 1/8" NPT 28 tpi, that is what the manifold ones are, and I'm pretty sure the cat ones are the same [from memory]. Don't get a 1/8" BPT they are close, but only 27 tpi.

Yeah, but the theory is the same.......

I'll take it. I'll phone you.