tridentt150v

Sounds more like a stuck lifter, if it was a big end the noise and knock level should get worse when you accelerate. But also, if you still get white smoke [not cold start vapour], it could be a head gasket, just a little hole with a ticking/tapping noise - it will get worse. Your knock levels are more likely a measure of the noise than any real leaning out.

If you look at the photo's the needles are at maximum - not at zero. No idea what is wrong with them, no idea how fixes them, try the yellow pages, maybe Olympic in Pymble, but I don't know. Basically for those gauges you buy a sensor and get a free gauge, plus a lot of second hand jap auction and ebay gauges have no sensor with them, this lets people that buy them get a cheap sensor. I know for a fact that new GReddy/Trust sensors are approx. $80 for the oil temp and $216 for the exhaust temp units.

Re PM's: Please note my trader rating, I'll give a money back guarantee [as I do with all sales] supporting this sale. If I say its working then its working and inversely if I say its not working then it isn't, but could be repaired if you know someone or have the skills.

Yes, you can use the hand controller to knock 3 degrees out of the timing - blanket - across the board. Have a look at Pauls PFC instructions in the DIY section

You'll lunch it if you don't baby it, need to get it back to the shop and get it re tuned. Anything over 60 is a worry, and 100+ is piston melting time. Could be something simple like a fuel pump on the way out?

I've got a SII Gtst and it has both drivers and passenger seat belt warning light harness, plus a cat temp sensor, so could be either, but I'd say seat belt. Logic tells me a cat temp sensor wire would be too bloody hot to go anywhere near flamable materials for at least a metre or so until it cools enough.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/60...ml#entry4829760 for pics

I have 3 x 60mm GREddy gauges, Oil pressure, Oil temp, and Exhaust temp, black face, white numbers, electronic, plus wiring and sensors. I also have an Apexi 60mm boost gauge, black face white numbers plus wiring [boost takes 1/4" hose]. Three plastic stick on dash gauge holder cups and feet 60mm [not for these gauges but they do fit]. NOTE: the oil temp and exhaust temp gauges only need repairs, all else is working fine and well. ie sensors, oil pressure, and boost gauge are fine. These are not smoked or anything, more normal standard gauges. I have two oil temp sensors [one and a spare?]. Sensors new are +$100 for EGT and OP, $80 for OT, and any gauges with a brand name are way expensive. Asking: $70 for the EGT with sensor $40 for the OT with one sensor, or $70 for all $40 for the OT sensor only $100 for the OP with sensor $100 for the boost gauge $40 for the gauge holders or $15 each. Note, the stainless steel cup on the boost gauge is not included, gauge only for sale.

Ummm what colour is your missing 'line?

Airgap = two electrical contacts that don't touch You have a live ignition wire going into the turbo timer and then it comes back out again and carries on to the loom. If you unplug the timer you should have open circuit. A turbo timer is just a fancy on/off switch, if you take the switch out then you have no current flow. So unless you bridge the two appropriate wires ie join them up using a link wire then you have an airgap.

A boost controller is a good thing, and necessary for upping the boost when your modding. Like most guys on here, I have one and use it for increased boost and boost control. if you have std turbo/s I wouldn't bother with one though. If you have a list of mods done to your car [FMIC, Injectors, PFC, turbo upgrade, etc etc etc] then a good quality boost controller is a must. But your original question was can I save fule by winding it back, and we've answered that part only. So if you are going to mod your car, then buying a boost controller is not a bad thing to do.

I have an unused sheet of chain mail type heat shield [still in the factory wrapper] price neg. if interested. I think it was around $70 plus postage.

You can't just unplug a turbo timer, the power has to flow through the timer, if you unplug it then you have an air gap. I'd also check the relay you wired into

^^^ true and I have a SII

How can you save fuel? if you don't boost it then you will save anyway. Even if you do boost it but only half boost then its only 4psi. At 100km/h your not on boost, at 120km/h your probably only on something like 10-20% boost so 1-2 psi if at all. If your banging it through the gears, then you'll hit boost all the time, but if you short shift you can avoid it. Lowering your peak boost won't save much fuel at all. The only time lower boost is worth doing is on rainy greasy days, not as much wheel spin when the turbo comes on song.

Its good to know the latest and I think its fine here, sorry ShaneFcan't understand why you'd whinge about something if you don't have or want anything to do with it, Guilt Toy took the time to help me out before and it was appreciated.

Re the engine mount it depends on whether you have a 100mm or the smaller inlet on the housing as to how much engine mount you grind away. You'll have to grind away the alloy engine mount cover as well. The HKS low mount [and you are dead set correct Wolverine in calling std manifolds side mounts] actually gives you more room to play with - once the engine mount is modified. I have a SII with ABS and it doesn't even come close. The biggest pain is the A/C hoses running along the subframe. They are a bit close but you can make up a neat alloy heat shield [i used stainless sheet] and that helps. Never ever seen a HKS cast low mount with a heat shield attached, I know they have mounting lugs for one, but never seen one. Not sure about your IW exahust housing room, but there's no problems with the WG housing hitting the motor, the HKS manifold mounting position for the turbo is kicked out at the rear a bit, the turbo doesn't sit parallel to the motor, so you loose out on the comp side - thus the engine mount mod - but gain on the exhaust side.

gauge or short in gauge wiring, check your wiring before ditching the gauge. Alos check your sensor, if you can borrow another one and use it give that a go.

Oh he wants the work done.....I thought he had it done and wanted a rebuild. Present and past tense ing vs ed, so yeah pro engines for any machining etc Plus it still stands for pfc anyway.

Talk to Glen or Danny at ESP in Queanbeyan, they have a well deserved good reputation.

Mobil 98??? sure its not diesel your using???

Thats why I posted - a lesson for any kiddies watching.........

Why would you want to steal a sub $20K car anyway, better off with a Merc or Porsche etc, even a new commonwhore or such is worth more than most of ours - even when we heavily modify, its still worth jack sh1t compared to new cars!!! No brains if your stealing 10-20 year old tokyo taxi's.

Your 10 years too late................

was thinking of the pedestrian lights, your right, I'm wrong