tridentt150v

I've got a Snow Performance stage 3 WMI kit which I'm about to install. Just want to know what nozzle size you are running with, the 375 or the 625? Gts2.5t with +300rwkw. The chart says that the 375 will do it, but I could be breaking into the 625 so wanted to see what others were doing? Or do I have to suck and see? Also what fuel do you use [not interested in brand, RON] 91, 95, 98. given that WM gives around 20 points, is there any use in running on 95 for a road car, is the motor capable of running OK on 91 when its not on boost [sounds logical to me, but i wouldn't be asking if I didn't already know].

yokohama advan 102's on the front 245 40 17 yokohama advan V103's on the back 265 40 17 had 102's on the back, gripped well but wore out in no time, 103's are longer wearing. Might look you up Mick, when it's time to go again. I like the look of that tyre you posted, my 102's were the same as that, great road pattern but yoko's are exe around $400 fitted a tyre hurts

Thats OK, it was good the catch up, next time I'll get some intro's as well, know some but not all. I left early, was pretty b#ggered, I'd been up since 4am so was a bit washed out.

Location? I used a Braille battery [same sh1t different bucket]. It wasn't a drop in fit, I needed a new battery holder bracket for it. Before this I had an Odyssey 600??? or some such and I had to make up the brackets for this one as well. Happy with the Braille, try Matt Maladin Imports. I had mine sent out to me. really doesn't matter what you get as long as you settle on it and use them all the time - it makes life simpler.

Also check wiring for other stuff. The lighter wire is a good one that everyone picks on for anything that needs accessory power turbo timers, gauges, boost controllers etc

Go to an auto electrician, probably cost about $30 max [had mine done for $15]

Umm what did you say about that WMI kit? You'll have to dust it off and use it now!!!

Do a search, but I remember reading somewhere that some [note not all] users were experiencing surge. I have the 100mm port shroud 'with all the supporting mods' and have not had any issues, but it depends on too many things to say that this will or will not happen. Defining 'all supporting mods' is a key issue.

CAM84 has an R33 listed?????

molested??? Ummm, Dolly Dunn maybe?

I got a binnicle 60mm three gauge holder from a shop in japan. It is sort of kicked up on one side and so is molded so it fits on the curve of the dash. It is not above your a/c but in betwen the a/c and speedo gauge cluster [but on top of the dash. I'm away from home right now, but if your interested in this type, I'll be back saturday and will drag out the reciept and address. I'll also see about getting a pic! just let me know.

Two of my three GReddy gauges [Ex and Oil temp] are faulty, reading max. Anyone know of someone that can fix them? Even an address in Japan? Otherwise I'll have to buy another set [inc. oil press].

OK, its been a few months now and it is all working fine, no problems at all. What I also did was fit a smaller battery off to one side and power my alarm from this. It gets charged when I'm driving but has a one way in line doide that isolates it from the main battery. A plus side is I don't have to disconnect my central locking button on the door, it doesn't work without power, so one more way that thieves are foiled.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...hl=airbag+light There are several methods, I had to hold mine down while turning on.

Mobil used to have a coloured lid code for their oil, but nobody understood it. Red, blue, gold etc it went something like: • Gold caps for Mobil 1 Extended Performance • Silver caps for our Mobil 1 products • Green caps for Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy • Black caps for Mobil 1 Racing oils, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils and Mobil Clean High Mileage • Blue caps for Mobil Clean 7500 and • Red caps for Mobil Clean 5000 They are now [or last I saw] actually labelling their oils. I've used the black and the gold in my bike and had no problems. I've used the gold in my Skyline and its OK.........would be nice if it was cheaper though!!

Godfrey's have got a sale on........maybe there's an opening where people won't blame you cos you suck!!!

Are you using an air filter? Did you loose your Rolex while looking at the turbo spin? The blades shouldn't be damaged like that on the leading edge unless you have sucked in a small baby or poodle?

Driving the car like Nanna for the first few minutes warms up everything, gearbox, diff, motor etc If you warm it up in the driveway then you are only warming the motor.

you can also get a leakdown test on your coolant system, most mobile vehicle inspection guys can do this in a minute, it will show if there are leaks, and will force the leak to show up.

Great, but you could have made the same power with a std GTST hiflow for less $$$ and single component chnage over. For $2500 I would have brought a real 3076 and had change to fit up [probably need another 500-1000 though], oh wait i already did that...... But 240rwkw is a fun car

If your plug melted, sorry your in deep sh#t. A melted plug usually also means big knock and a holed or melted piston is also common. Covered in black crap means heaps of gunked up oil and stuff. I'd do a compression test but if your lifters aren't working it may not mean anything.

^^^true

ask in the RB30 section, but lifters, maybe oil galleries aren't lined up? No start could be the lifters are stuck, no oil pressure?

You answered your own question: Get a wheel alignment so you get measurements This will tell you if you need adj castor and camber bushes = very likely Steering rack has nothing to do with it [unlikely anyway] Get the kit , fit the kit, get another wheel alignment and jobs done. Whiteline make all this stuff, as do a couple of other brands, I'd drop SK a PM and order a kit, you'll only chew through tyres like there is no tomorrow otherwise.

If your overfuelling, you will wash the oil sheen off the bore. Not saying thats the problem, but 1 litre in 300km is the sort of effect it would have.