tridentt150v

yeah vct ramps up your cam/valve breathing down low as jjjjs says, it overcomes some of the lag a bigger turbo would induce.

Except for you saying it holds boost, I'd say a stuck open wastegate. Is your actuator arm actually working, and it def. holds boost? Then again, a std motor should make more than 48 kw even without FI.

Stewart Little is the mouse, yeah I was kidding. The grease idea works, you use a bit of wire or some such with a small flat on it, you load the flat up with grease and then go fishing. If you lob it on the copper bit it will stick to the grease and then you can carefully retrieve it. I've done it before for various jobs and it works. The best bit is that any grease you loose won't do any harm anyway [unlike blue tack].

Stewart Little would work for $30-40 and hour. I wouldn't use blue tack, but I would use grease!!!

Actually, some micro porosity isn't a bad thing - maybe the rust gave you that - OK I'm joking. Some tune shops phosphorise your cam lobes so that they have micro pits in them. This is supposed to be good for oil retention and cold starts. If you did them on the car, even iif your really careful, I'd still change the oil and filter after a flush or two.

weld 'em in

Take your car to another dyno shop, run away as fast as you can.......if they didn't recognise such a simple problem then they shouldn't be learning on your vehicle.

My calcs [using SK formula] say 39.6 = 40mm for a gate.

^^^^ he said they were recessed in too deep....otherwise I'd agree. A really good welder might be able to weld on a tube, use a stick welder and weld down the tube inner, then weld a nut on the end of the tube. It's not something I've had to do, and not sure I could, but I'd give it a go if I was stuck.

Your doing it right, they are wrong or mixing rw and crank hp. 300rwkw is 400rwhp. For a 3076 and using SK's formula: So let's apply it to your car; 300 rwkw = 480 bhp 480 bhp = 44 lbs of airflow = 44 mm wastegate Now if you want to run 20 psi, then that's the right size wastegate. But we need to apply the boost correction.... To get 300 rwkw out of a GT3076 you would need to run around 18 psi. So using the formula... 44 /20 X 18 = 39.6 mm. So a 40mm watsegate is required. I have to admit that I'm guessing a bit with the boost correction, but its not to far of [i'm running 16-17 psi and saw 292].

cold chisel

Bog stock, you'll maybe see +7, but you have to floor it and hold it. Boost starts straight away, but you won't see full boost until the motor winds the turbo up. I'd say boost will begin happening at 2500 and top out at 3500-4000rpm [that long ago since std I'm having trouble remembering].

Looks std to me. Probably need to see what the exhaust housing is? Looking at the front only tells half the story, but I'm not so sure your lag problem is on the comp. side.

What speed rating??? I want to buy four for my skyline but am not sure they will handle the extreme drift!!!

Is this the same block you advertised a week or so ago??? I was waiting on pics?? and now the price has gone up as well? I don't understand, I thought we were talking....... and I was asking the right questions about the work done, reciepts, quality of job, shop that did the work, oil pump crank sleeve, turbo and oil thread fitting holes, bore etc etc. If you were about to spend $3k+ for a product unseen, you'd want to make damn sure it was what you wanted, so I don't think I was being unreasonable.

Sssshhhh!!! I'm hiding and waiting for Santa!!

Dropping the oil won't do anything except waste $$$$. Iwould spend the $100 on a new sensor/sender. If your gauge still reads funny, do what bubba says and get a decent gauge and check what it does.

I opted for the PS because with it you eliminate the effects of surge.........I don't know if I had surge, but didn't really want the issue to start with. OK I may have sacrificed some power, but I could have also saved some grey hairs and $$$$ deducing that my problem was surge and then having to buy a PS comp cover as an extra. The downside, I could be loosing a bit of power for no good reason because I took the safe bet. The PS comp cover also fits in with my future mod plans where I believe the chances of having surge will be greater. PS Couldn't give a rats about the noise, not my thing really.

tuned properly, it should be fine, I'd think 250 more than 220 though. Give you head room for that RB30 conversion........lol

Either one, then I'd use a 9" angle grinder, cut the roof off, mount a 'T' spottie, rifle rack, and 'roo leg racks and take it shooting. Then I'd see which one lasts the distance>>>>take it out to Tilpa paddock bashing, or up the gulf and through a few creeks. They just don't do proper rood tests on cars...do they????

I'll say I haven't read the whole thread.......... But did you bleed your coolant system? sounds like you have air in the system.

There is a big thread in forced induction on the emanage, have a read, it could do what you want http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...&hl=emanage

read this: http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....showtopic=76436

emanage will do it, but a power fc will do it better, you get what you pay for. Alternatives to the power fc are available [haltech, vipec, link, autronic, motec, etc etc] and they all have their good and bad points, but the power fc is the simplest best known genuine plug and play solution, it will slot into your system and work straight away [with a tune up of cause]. ohh and it has the most support and is the best known - and Guilt Toy knows his skylines inside out so listen to him.

Check to see if they are on zero, all the cams I know of are already dialed in for a zero setting. Set them to zero and have a drive - you'll need a retune as well. I did the same thing with mine, and the tuner was more used to GTR tuning so wasn't aware that you set to zero for Gtst's. I went from 245rwkw without cams to 215rwkw with cams....bummer. I reset them myself and the power difference was huge and very very pleasing. Got a tune later and 257rwkw.