tridentt150v

Make sure its not electrical first, check the simple things like fuse connection [swap it for another fuse even], also the wiring to the gauge from the tank, and the plug behind the front dash etc If its a float, it usually stays bad, doesn't change or jump around. I'm pretty sure its a tank out job, I've never done it, but I've changed fuel pumps a few times and can't see how you could get at it from the top. Somebody else may confirm????

Check the two hoses that go into it while your at it, they unclip so can be pulled off while checking the O ring. There is probably a tutorial on replacing your fuel pump in the DIY section, this should tell you how to go about checking and reassembly etc.

Check the big O ring on the tank, its in the boot behind the battery cover. Undo the top and check that the O ring isn't broken.

Ford Ka? Daihatsu Charade, old lady and pram, missing toddler??? Big turbo's suck all sorts of things up........

yeah, Ryco Z418. Doing an oil change is like sex, worth doing but always a bit messy....lol, a relocator kit could help.

Not a short somewhere, maybe even the earth lead to the fuel pump?

It depends on your power output. If you have a sub 200rwkw car then iridiums are good, but if you have a 200+ rwkw 'line then your better off with coppers. The iridiums have a long and trouble free life but don't provide the fattest brightest spark, so if you have knock issues with a bigger turbo etc then coppers are probably a better option. Not saying it will solve your problem, but its more likely to help than iridiums can. Basically, iridiums are not a performance plug, they are more a maintenance free plug. And before anyone queries, 200rwkw is just the start, I actually had no problems with my iridiums till I went from 240 to 280rwkw [different turbo install] and had to make the change to coppers.

Actually, the one with the three tail lights lined up would make a very good banner/postcard theme, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 or parts thereof with parliament house as a background.

And they wonder why our balance of payments trade with china is so one way!!! I had a similar try with a GTSt unit years ago,,,,it also ended in failure, arguments and after legals and threats a partial refund [that business now no longer exists]. I wish you luck!!! And I'm with JoeyJoey on this, no china parts.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...ark-t42819.html

The bolt on right angle bend sounds interesting [i need to weld one on, a bolt on sounds simpler]. Interested in the twin scroll as well, like to see back to back comparo's.........but that is a way off yet.

After i started mine and let it settle, the oil was about half way on the dipstick, I could maybe put another 100-200cc in and get to 3.9 or 4 litres, but thats it. You need to borrow someone elses dipstick, but usually if you overfill, it will burn heaps of blue smoke, just blow it out in clouds. I'd have a look at your oil container, you might have purchased a 4 litre one instead of a 5 litre?

Well I know the rest will look new, but is the drivers side one perfect? Does it look like new?

surrounds

I just did mine yesterday and only used approx. 3.8, and it is a 5 litre container and I replaced the filter as well, so I don't know were your oil is going

Efficiency is the key, if the motor as a whole is optimised for efficiency then more energy is converted to power instead of emissions and heat. To use your two examples you would have to ask which one is operating more efficiently, which one is using more fuel, generating more heat or creating more emissions etc Your first example could be the best alternative for that type of motor, it could run cooler, be more fuel efficient and have lower emissions along with a longer engine life.

pic of Mats especially drivers side front mat please

Rochester [had a 4 barrel on my Transam]

Only way your gunna know if your team won!!!!

Is the JJR copy exactly the same? maybe you could use parts from it [not ideal, but an option]. I'd talk to just jap and see? BUT.....according to the internet, BD4's is still going, email [email protected] or try calling 0415833599. Otherwise you may have to go OS

Does the oil filter relocator kit make the oil changes easier/cleaner?

just jap, got it, get it, gone.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Litres-t244440.html

Just checked, RB20DET 4.2 and RB25DET 4.3 with filter, minus 0.4 for no filter change ie 3.8/3.9 litres

At say 3-4000 rpm cruising you should see 3.5-4.0 kg/cm2, thats normal or both my std gauge and greddy gauge and/or oil pump are stuffed and I know thats not true. If your going off the std gauge then it could be out........try installing an aftermarket gauge and see what it reads. I use 5w 50 synthetic, so it shouldn't read any different to your 10w 60 when its warm, maybe a small diff, but not enough to worry. Not saying your oil pressure is bad, but I wouldn't want it.