tridentt150v

what engine? RB20 approx. 3.9, RB25 approx. 4.1 give or take. I'll check out the real figures and get back to you, but the 'real' figures never mean much. My 25 is supposed to take 4.1 with an oil filter, but your usually flat getting 3.7 or 8 in it. If it was a totally dry engine [after a rebuild maybe] then you might get the spec figure in.

One of the HPI's had a version write up of it too!

You sure its kpa? 7.5 kpa is 7.6 kg/cm2 and thats way too much pressure. Usual pressure for a road car is 3.5 to 4.0 kg/cm2. Even revving you shouldn't see 7.5 once the oil warms up, 5 maybe. If you have a look at the bolt that clamps the banjo fitting to the block on the feed side, you will probably find that there is a restrictor in it already anyway. There is a wastegate sizing help thread in the DIY section, a 38-42 sounds about right to me [i'm running the same turbo and using a 40mm at 16 psi, and I used the DIY thread and thats basically what it told me to use].

Use a Nismo belt buckle, thats what I did, looks uber cool!!!

If its a road car and the powers that be find out, you will have less pull than a rock spider and be put in the same sentence as the Exxon Valdez, plus your bank balance will hate you. If its for track then go for it.

have sex drink beer have sex and beer

The NSW RTA has a web site where you can type in your preferred rego combo's/number/s. it will tell you if they are available or already issued to someone else. you can then keep trying till you find something you want. The ACT equivalent should have something similar.......

Spotted white R33 on Barton Highway near Exhibition Centre coming into Federal hwy turn around 1330hrs today, waved don't know if they waved back........

Very racey.............

Look in the FS section they are always going..........

Yeah, 15-25% so say 20% average unless your a Holden or a Ford then the factory will make it more like 30-40%.......lol. The 307kw Holdens don't dyno test at 307kw [that figure is a little optimistic]. Depends on your gearbox, diff and/or CV's, wheel bearings, clutch anything that produces friction and heat in the drive train. The more heat the greater the power loss between crank and wheels.

Check the one you have first, there is good stuff in the DIY thread about them.

And when you do, don't over tighten them and crush the pump

Did you look at this? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

It's probably missing, hows your battery, hows your fuel pump, APR, and injectors, honestly could be several things. TPS, AFM etc etc have a look at the DIY section and work through them.

I thought he said it was only holding boost OK at 1 bar [which roughly would be around the 14psi spring rate], but they couldn't increase boost above this without problems. Maybe I misunderstood???

If it wasn't for price, the product would be the same pretty much. Some ppl on here have proven that by running big hp numbers on std coils.

What spring rate is in your wastegate, I'm betting its a 14psi [light blue colour] or similar. So your wastegate is bleeding too early.........just a guess.

Toll Autologistics..........isn't that just a fancy name for the Toll car transport trucking arm of Toll Holdings??? If it is, then expect your car jack and other stuff to be stolen. I had to send a vehicle using Toll and when it got to it's destination, somebody had stolen the jack, the toolkit, the jack winder, and the cigarette lighter knob. Not impressed. You have to keep pestering Toll, they will not tell you that your car is there for weeks if at all, they just park it in the yard and forget it mostly. I wouldn't leave it there any longer than a millisecond longer than I have to.........imagine a trucking yard with your car parked up the back of it, dust, sun, diesel etc etc A compliance plate is a small tag pop rivetted to your firewall in the engine bay to say it has met australian design rule standards, it is not a rego plate. You can get a 7 day permit to drive it around, but the best bet is to take it to the nearest garage and get a roadworthy. You are legally allowed to drive it to the garage, get the roadworthy and then drive it to the registery or home, one way and no stopping. Even if they knock you back on the blueslip, you can drive it home still. But I'd talk to the RTA and/or ACT shopfront about it, they will tell you what you can and cannot do. But I'm sure that if you have a blueslip or knockback, you can drive it straight home.

I'm doing that this weekend, and yes it is great, better still on a bike - but I'm taking the Skyline this time.

I'd also start the car and let it idle or take it for a short drive after you've done it. This is to burn off and/or evaporate any water still lying around. Make sure the car reaches NOT.

Same here, good stainless steel ones, cable ties end up going brittle and breaking

For 260rwkw and up to 300, 555cc Nismo yellow tops would be my choice.

Would the Castrol SAF-XA be Ok for a Nismo 1.5 diff? Or other recommendations pls... Mild tune 280rwkw, street not race, '98 GTS2.5t.

Was quoted $42 each for std tops from lincorp [not sure if that was complete or if complete even applies] - I'm buying s/h units for $100 and see how they go.