Country Cruzin

Dont think that would be ur problem mate as the oil just flows back into the sump from the turbos.

nah they want 32k for the 2.8 genisis would rather sell my car n buy one already done

looking at getting an engine rebuilt but also considering a new engine as everything is new, an quality should be good, would like the engine to be able to handle 400kw atw without babying it at all. I guess most people have made this decision, an have done alot of research so your thoughts would be appreciated i see just jap sell the N1 spec for 15k tomei do the advanced spec for bout 20k plus getting it here not sure who else does one. not sure if the n1 would handle the power i know the tomei would. an the n1 spec engine has a 34 diff, n i got a 33, though also need a new clutch n gear box, so probably wouldnt be a massive deal. though the 34 gear boxes seem to be around 9k instead of 3k.

according to just jap you can get them for a few different levels of power. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the competition one an the standard one?

To order from japan is there any import tax or that you need to pay? only important things thru ebay before.

sweet thanks bru

i wonder if they'd fit on an R33 GTR? got 9.5 on atm but cant remember the offset

Where can you find a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate for $1600? I've only seen them advertised for bout $2800??

From reading button clutches aren't as friendly as twin plates, talked to npc he recommended a single button clutch rated at 400kw as its only $1150 plus flywheel n said it would handle plenty of clutch dropping but also said it wasn't as good as a daily, he said a twin plate would be an option but they bout 2400 plus push type to pull adaptor which would make it bout 3000. Dunno wot clutch is in the car atm, but its handled well over 100 limiter dumps with bout 380hp then probs 50-80 launches with 460hp then died just when I was starting to think it was invincible. Is possible it could be rebuildable when I get it out and find out wot it is. But was wondering how much ppl were paying for twin plate coppermix clutches? An how readily available they are? Don't want the car off the road for long once I get it pulled out that's all.

Hey thanks heaps for the info =) think i'll look into a new gear box, didnt think they'd be so cheap. =)

yer found the KU36'pretty useless at the drags best i got out of them was a 1.75 60ft with 20psi in the rear an 25 in the front

My car now has a stuffed clutch an think there has bn a stuffed synchro on fourth gear for a while so want to get them both fixed at the same time. but the car has done 150,000km an not sure if the gearbox would be worth fixing, or if i should look into putting an r34gtr box in, as they should be a lil newer and ive bn told they are a stronger box then the 33? not sure if thats true or not. currently running bout 460hp atw. But im not sure of the price of a 34 box as i havent seen any for sale, an how much itd cost to make it fit. any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. also are the diff ratio's much the same in a 34 compared to a 33?

if it was bout nine thirty satuday nite the other white 33 was probably me on my way back from willowbank

i take it you were one of the black 32's ?? think there was only 3 skylines there that i seen

hmm i wonder how hard it is to fit an r34 box into a r34 gtr, they'd all be a fair bit newer, heard of one bloke doin it

would that sorta price include labour? an wot do u get with a rebuild? car has done 150k so the gears are probably getting worn to, but i guess a whole new box would be expensive

when i go to select 4th gear bout 3/4 of the time time it grinds/crunches going in, all other gears are fine. would seem to me like a synchro, but i dont understand a whole lot bout gear boxes.. anyone else had this problem?? if so how did u fix it, an how much? anyhelp would be appreaciated thanks

hey if its not to late count me in +1

hmm sounds good, just not sure if i have to work saturday morning, also never bn to a track before, do u need a cams licence, or a some sort of license to drive?

went with the ku36's went to willowbank test an tune last saturday nite. could see it was goin to rain shortly an i would be lucky to get 2 runs so had a stupid idea i'll drive through the water an drop a 4wd burnout to warm the tyres 8000rpm clutch drop with wet tyres, that part seemed to go well but then when i dropped the clutch again to launch a few seconds later the clutch didnt like it, an continued to slip down the strip a lil. never had a prob with it slippin before then when i lined up again thought the clutch mite cool off in that time drove round the water did a clutch drop by the time i got half way down the strip clutch was slippin like a bitch. then would slip goin down the high way on the way home once i got to round 5500rpm, then on sunday didnt slip at all , by sunday nite was handling clutch drops on normal bitumen no problem, so now not sure whether to give the clutch another go at the drags or not...

yer there is a lot of difference between a proper dragstrip an a runway/normal bitumen. 1.5 i would think very good for a run way. well i guess i'll have to flip a coin wether to go for the ku36's of a set of falken 453's n see wot i can do, do you know how much much its safe to drop pressures never experimented with it, but i would think it would help.

1.9?? im hopeing to run in the 1.5's, have got 1, 1.59 60ft an some low 1.6's with a set of falken 452's was hoping to run more consistent with a lil more aggressive tyre, i now have bout 340kw atw previous times were when i had about 280kw atw

So you think they should be fine for traction when they're cold? wishing i had an on/off button for the 4wd so i could warm the rears at the drags...

goin down to a test n tune at willow bank saturday night an was thinkin of getting a set of 275/40r17 Kuhmo KU36's. But a friend pointed out that when they're cold, i'll probably get worse traction then normal street tyres. would this be right? any advice thoughts would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Took it back, had a diffrent tuner there, an they changed the tune a fair bit, now there is just one little bit that isnt perfect, sometimes when i change up a gear under full acceleration, the power comes on in the nxt gear for bout half a second, then it coughs then it goes hard, an only throws flames occasionally =) Oh an pick up nearly 40hp atw an the power comes on much beta an smoother down low.