Country Cruzin

Thanks for the input, went with the project mu HC's because not many ppl disliked them. The Qfma 1 rm's probably would have done the job nearly as good or as good same with the intima sr's, n Winmax w3's. An didn't have time to research the ebc range, other then the greens which people all seemed to agree they aren't much good.

Ok pad options seem to be endless, have also had Winmax W3 pads recommended, as an option instead of project mu HC's, about 110 cheaper for a set of 4 then the HC's an apparently as good, if not a little better. Tho never heard of them an project Mu's HC seem to be fairly common with few complaints, so maybe they're a safer bet..

Also intima SR could be ok, but also plenty of comments on chewing rotors, tho I guess friction usually means something has to wear ..

Project mu HC appear good, tho some say not so good. Probably more track orientated then what I need an are $618 for a set. QFMA1rm's have lovers an haters. But can get a set for $270. So is tempting to just get a set of them. Tho some say they're a little hungry on discs, an the HC seem easy on discs so not sure how much I'll save. As I'm not sure how expensive the two piece front rotors are to replace...Think I need to steal a set of carbon ceramics of a new maclaren, no one seem to bitch bout them too much lol

I need a new set of pads for my car. Got the standard brembo callipers with dba 5000 front discs n 4000 rears. Had bendix ultimates thought they worked alrite but were dusty, also seemed to wear out quickly only did appox. 10,000km on the road n one half hour happy laps session at qld raceway. Appeared to hold up fine little fade towards the end, and a little smoke coming off the rears when I pulled into the pits. Car does a lot of street driving an hopefully will get some more track time in the future. Car is running around 350kwatw. Read thru most of the brake pad reviews. Didn't seem to be any pads that someone didn't hate. Also most of the posts are fairly old now. Which pads are people running now? Resma sounded ok but I rang up the agent an he didn't recommend them for track work, he said they're a high end street pad but won't hold up on the track he recommended Qfma1rm's but from reading on the forums they're ok but squeal very badly. Both are very cheap pads, do u get better pads for more dollars? What do people recommend? Help will be appreciated thanks

Thanks, just going to convert it back mechanic has most of the bits needed. So bit of labour n should be all good

After some advice, my car needed an engine rebuild gearbox rebuild n a new clutch, so I ordered in a new nismo twin plate copper mix comp spec clutch from rhd in japan. But when the mechanic went to put the clutch in turns out a previous owner has converted it from pull to push type, an the clutch I got was a pull type (car is a 33gtr). Wot are the options? Don't really want to freight the clutch back to japan an freight a new one in even if rhd were okay to do that.

Was going to put a 10L w/m tank in the boot, but then thought the tank will have to breath, an don't really want meth fumes in the car, how are people over coming this?

15-20% w/m (w50/m50) of the total fuel supply, seemed a lot to me? Sorry bout the screwed up reply(accidentally hit reply halfway thru)

Talking to Aquamist he recommended 2x400cc or 2x 300cc for my application, he worked it out against my injector sizing an running

Think my catch can has course steel wool inside it bit worried about putting oil back into the sump incase of an broken steel peices?

By snout u mean like a nitto crank collar? It will have one of them with the new build. So don't worry too much about the oil return galleries?

Okay, so seriously thinking of getting an aquamist kit, they appear to be a quality product with good fail safe options. Which way are people getting the best results on rb26's? I'm currently running -5's @20psi, (so the turbo's could easy give another 5 psi but to be safe from knock I've limited it to 20 psi) standard compression, still got the standard individual throttle bodies. Is it best just to have 1 nozzle just before the intake plenum? Or best to use 2 smaller jets spaced out? Or go one for each cylinder an just one before the intake plenum twice the size of the other 6? An how many cc injectors are ppl , and finding best? Any help would be appreciated, motor is currently being rebuild to should get the plenum tapped now if I'm going to use one nozzle for each. Thanks for your help

Getting my rb26 rebuilt, will be running 450-500hp atw, is apart bout to start, for oil control I got standard sump, sump baffle, N1 oil pump, oil restrictors, oil cooler, sump breathing to catch can. I suggested to the tuner/ engine builder bout cleaning the oil drains in the head maybe drilling them out a bit but that didn't make sense to him, said he'd never done it an he specializes in gtr's. Maybe I explained it wrong, as it's all foreign to me?? He suggested the head oil drain kit if I wanted to do something. Guess it mite actually drain thru it once I've got the sump breathing?? Is this enough? Any advice highly appreciated thanks.

Have the vents got mesh on them? Is it ready to bolt straight on?

Is it vented? An are they legal?

Anybody know how much it costs to refurbish them? Or guesses on freight to qld? Thanks

was thinking of getting a nismo twin copper mix. but my mechanic is recommending a npc..says they're better. no idea wot sort of clutch is in the car, ive owned it for 5 years never had it out. probs done 200+ clutch drops from redline..(car makes bout 320kw) but eventually it died. just when I thought it was invincible ( may have dropped a 4 wheel burnout to warm the tires a willow bank resulting in the speedo reading about 30km/h higher then it should have by the end of the strip) have been told some clutches don't like getting dumped often? but never heard much bout npc? anyone had much experience abusing them?

Yer still seems to cost 450-800 no matter where it's going to get it down there, just want a quality job done at a reasonable price.

Only ever had mercury n godzillar Motorsport do a decent amount of work b4. Oh n one other I wouldn't consider goin back to

hmm need to decide which work shop to use in Brisbane, for some diagnostics, an medicine, or heart transplant or operation. then a retune

White 1995 model v-spec Also has Hks oil cooler

Hey got an R33 GTR, not sure whether to fix or sell as is, would like a rough idea what it would be worth as is. car needs a new clutch, the motor needs a rebuild, an 4th gear syncro is going. car is in fair condition. 150,000km car has vipec ecu splitfire coils 700cc injectors hks air intake -5 garrets fmic fuel pump full exhaust dba 5000 front 2 piece brakes dba 4000 rear brakes 270 degree cams cam gears greddy boost controller just a rough estimate would be great thank you

Q. i'm currently needing a rebuild, an only bn to one happy laps in the 5n a half years ive owned the car. An yes I do like to listen to my car sing to 8000 before changing gear n not running out of puff. currently have a rb26, -5's n 270 cams. but as its my weekend driver (when its going) it can be a lil annoying with lag round town. Im glad someone pointed out some of the head aches of a 30/26. I know drag 32/26's will happily rev to 9000+ but a purpose built. I'm not after super quick laptimes... I know a 30/26 would fix down low problems, but worried what the difference is from 6000-8000rpm, as ive spent time in an xr6 turbo, an no lag is great, but just got more boring towards the limiter the harder u revved it instead of getting more exciting, didn't seem right. an maybe I should get out more an go to more skyline meets, but how bad can a 30/26 sound