lwells

I'm not so sure you couldn't find something to fit: you would probably have to fabricate the facia (with, say, fibreglass), but the actual vent mechanism, slats, and dials from another car should OK assuming the size is about right. Lucien.

Urgh. The wire is part of the loom that plugs in to the ECU. When you cut the wire, the ECU no longer recieves a speed reading (which is why it doesn't pull fuel) and therefore can't properly activate/deactivate speed sensitive devices, like HICAS. When you completely replace the ECU with a PFC, the PFC plugs in to the same loom and recieves the speed signal (assuming you haven't cut the wire). However, the PFC is not programmed to pull fuel when the sensor reports 180+KM/H. Lucien.

I don't quite know how else to phrase it: is the pod fully enclosed in the box (with an entry for the air duct and the pod/afm), that is, does it have four sides, a top and a bottom, or is it just a shield that sits over the top and down a couple of sides? Lucien.

The PFC completely replaces the ECU and doesn't have a speed cut: you leave the wire attached. Lucien.

Is the box fully enclosed/sealed (bar for the air duct, obviously)? Or is it more of shield? Cheers, Lucien.

1) 6+ months. 2) Lets see... i. HICAS went a little nuts: replaced oil and fixed leaking pipes off the bottom of the resevoir. Seems to be fixed now. ii. The windings for the aircon electric clutch are probably worn out. iii. There is an exhaust-side leak somewhere: I think the rear turbo manifold where it joins the head. iv. Broken centre air vents (but that's hardly unusual). v. Part of the dash was lifting (again, very common). Replaced the dash. 3) No suprises really: I paid above market price and got a Grade 4 car in basically stock condition, so I didn't expect any. 4) Excellent: everything indicates that car has been extremely well maintained. Lucien.

The wire is for the speed sensor, so things that rely on speed to activate -- i.e. HICAS -- get confused, which is why cutting the wire = bad. PSI_GTSII: Your car is obviously fux0red. Give it to me to keep. Lucien.

The problem has been covered a hunred times Your problem is likely to be: a) A lack of powersteering fluid. B) An incorrect boss kit. c) An incorrectly fitted boss kit. Just because the boss fits, doesn't mean its the correct one. You need a boss with holes for the HICAS lugs offset at about 2AM and 8PM: see this tread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=boss I also had an issue with the piping on the powersteering resevoir coming loose. I pulled the hoses up as high as possible (which was bloody hard) and then replaced the standard clamps with ring clamps. Lucien.

Almost everyone believes the stock GT-R BOVs are the best.

Mr R32 M-Spec: If you look at the Duplicolor website, they actually have promo shots of it used on cam covers, exhaust pipes, etc. LW.

I emailed Duplicolor asking about the durability of Metalcast for brake applications, and to check if applying a clearcoat for further protection was necessary/recommended. Here's their answer: L.

Meh: haven't had time to check the exhuast (damn busy with essays). Put me down for one anyway. Lucien.

Autobarn should be able to get you some decent Trust exhausts. By gad that's a huge pod filter. LW.

Do the Magic cats have a whole for the cat temperature sensor? Also, how are people heat-shielding them (or do you not bother)? Lucien.

shmiddy: just letting others know. If you use CP-199 you don't use the Groundcoat primer. Cheers, Lucien.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=75711 Lucien.

Its three gaskets, and Nissan doesn't do turbo gasket sets anymore, so you just order in the three. Before you do though, better to check that's what is actually causing the problem. The recommendation I have seen lately is to mix up some detergent with water and put it in a spray bottle. Spray all the possible connections, fiddle with the throttle to rev it a bit, and look for the bubbles. Hard to say if it will cause any damage without knowing exactly what/where it is. At a guess, probably not, but it will throw the mixtures out as air is escaping. LW.

Shaun, Thanks for the info: I'll measure my exhaust up tomorrow and let you know ASAP. Cheers, Lucien.

According to their website, if you're applying METALCOAT to bare metal surfaces (ie. you wire brushed your calipers first), your meant to use " CP-199 Adhesion Promoter". If the surface is pre-painted, you use the METALCOAT Groundcoat. See here: http://www.duplicolor.com/solutions/faq.html#anchor17 Lucien.

Your temp sensor could be on the way out. Mine has a habit of doing exactly the same thing so I'll be interested to see if replacing it fixes the problem. LW.

Its quite common for the bolts on the "Twin Turbo" pipe to work loose, particularly for the rear turbo, and the gasket to blow. Unfortunately they are not a standard gasket so you have to get them from Nissan AFAIK (or as I did, make them). I currently have a high-pitched leak somewhere (plus backfiring) and I am pretty sure its the same gasket. Lucien.

Likewise: I assume measuring the outside dimension is adequate? Any idea on the costs of getting it flanged? Will you be going ahead as soon as you get five people, or is there a cutoff date? Lucien.

Is it running as if its in cold start mode? Could be a busted temp sensor?

Good thing there is no protection for free speech in Australia (except parliamentary privledge, but I'm guessing that probably doesn't apply to you). LW.

What's wrong with the pipe listed just above? Have them send it express post? Lucien.