lwells

You can also buy it through Racespec on SAU. His prices are much better than R.R., but for the paint it probably doesn't matter much.

Revolution Racegear sells the DEI branded variety.

Looks much better than my efforts. Unfortunately due to the design of my dumps I could only wrap up to the O2 sensor bung, leaving about an inch unwrapped before the flange Roy: I had no problems with the spray, and it should only set you back $20ish. I don't think its just the spray that makes it go brittle, I think its a property of the actual wrap.

No offense taken. Its merely the way that Nissan designed the coolant to be dropped; its stupidly hard to get to (from underneath; very easy from up top but that requires the turbos out ). Another possibility is to also purchase a radiator sock post flushing to collect loosened crap.

Is it $105ea for the centre vent and passenger vent, or do they differ? Are they new, or from a wreck?

Be careful when pulling the speedo cable off. There is a spring at the end of it where it hooks to the back of the cluster. I unhooked mine and it ran right down the length of the cable and I spent about 2 hours trying to retrieve it

You should also check if the aircon is actually engaging when you turn on the AC. If its not, check your fuses.

Prank, Just wondering what's happening with the gallery upgrade? I seem to have lost images from my gallery.... are they likely to come back some time? Will images in pre-existing threads start working again? How do I link to an image in my gallery? Thanks

There is a block coolant drain plug. This guide I posted some time ago has details: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=67730 Out of interest, did you get your radiator professionally flushed, or did you do it yourself? Edit I just noticed the images aren't working (again! I only fixed them last week! ) after the gallery upgrade. Hmm.

It supposedly goes like this: -10 = GT-RS -7 = GT-SS -5 = HKS2530 I know I keep linking this thread, but I think it covers the current twin options (at least for us mere mortals without huge budgets) quite well: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=80624&st=0 Edit: It also covers the confusion re: 2560/2860

Well if the A/Rs are incorrect, the GT-SSs are basically R34 N1s, at least spec wise. I -- and I'm sure most people -- have also heard the cliams of different exhaust housings on some revisions too.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=80624&st=0 HKS 2530: TURBINE: Inducer = 53.8 mm Exducer = 47.0 mm Trim = 76 A/R = 0.64 COMPRESSOR: Trim = 63 Inducer = 47.7 Exducer = 60.1 A/R = 0.60 R34 N1's TURBINE: Inducer = 53.85 mm Exducer = 42.4 mm Trim = 62 A/R = 0.64 COMPRESSOR: Trim = 55 Inducer = 44.57 Exducer = 60.1 A/R = 0.60 HKS GT-SS TURBINE: Inducer = 53.85 mm Exducer = 42.4 mm Trim = 62 A/R = 0.64 COMPRESSOR: Trim = 56 Inducer = 44.46 Exducer = 59.41 A/R = 0.42 Edit: I have my suspicions that some of the A/R numbers are off. It looks to me for all the world like the R34 N1s were the base for the GT-SS, although someone else will have to comment as to whether they use the same catridge.

Hi All, I am really getting the sh!ts with the undertray on my R32 GT-R. It looks horrible, it barely holds on, and I reakon one decent knock or rock would tear it off its mounts. I assume Nissan charges a bomb for this (I'll check tomorrow) -- and besides, I don't think the stock material (ie. plastic) is very good -- so is anyone aware of an aftermarket alternative? I have seen plenty of aluminium options for other Nissans and makes, and Topstage even makes a lower lip/undertray in one for the R32 GT-R, but its considerably lower than the OEM item, looks a bit silly (personal opinion), and I already have trouble with driveways... There are quite a few floating around on Yahoo Japan. For example: http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k19019281 http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r17186260 http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k31197219 http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n35274365 I'm really not that fussed with the supposed aero benefits, I just want something that isn't a complete eyesore and pain in the arse to get on and off. Surely some enterprising local shop has made a replacement (and, even better, a replacement lower lip as well)? Cheers, Lucien.

Yes, bi as in high and low beam. They are out of an E55 Merc. You obviously need an assembly that's designed for both hi and low beam and I imagine there is no way to modify the OEM assembly replacing and using a retrofit. I haven't been following the 'xenon scene' lately so I don't know if there are any aftermarket hi/lo solutions. Ronin 09: out of interest, who makes the assemblys out of the Accord?

What condition is the centre vent? Price?

You'll have to forgive me for not racing out and purchasing based upon your "garuntee" since your username was registered yesterday, you've provided no information to back up what you're saying, and you haven't provided a blank cheque that I can fill out for the cost of camshafts, installation and tuning should your advice prove incorrect Don't get me wrong, I am not necessarily doubting what you are saying, but as Roy has pointed out the way you have said it doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

For starters, its not simply about turbo "lag", but low down engine torque/power (or "response" if you prefer) which encompasses a part of the rev range where the turbos aren't necessarily in play. Secondly, I would watch who you call a "fibber" and accuse of "never really done this" because you're talking about workshops that together have done hundreds (thousands?) of camshaft installs and are well known for their expertise with Skylines. Also, I don't think talking about "step 1" is particularly useful given that encompasses choices from 256 through 272 duration on both intake and exhaust camshaft (in the HKS range); the only similarities are that they are drop-in and in the case of HKS feature 8.7 lift (whilst other manufactures equivalents are different again: eg. Tomei uses 9.15 and has options of 260 and 252 duration). If it were the case that there was no downside to any of the "step 1" choices, then they wouldn't bother offering any choices and just provide one set of camshafts with the optimal duration lift possible. Its clearly a question of choosing the right camshafts for the right application. So the question is which option is best: standard cams adjusted or which aftermarket option. Just my 0.02c

Interestingly the dyno graphs on HKS's website for the GT-SS kit show that the car was running 264/264 camshafts (no mentioned of lift) http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...ss/ac_gtss.html However, on their page about the variable intake cam solution they make for the RB26 they suggest a 256 ex camshaft for GT-SS turbos and 264 with 2530s: http://64.233.179.104/translate_c?u=http:/...vcamsystem.html

I think most everyone is aware of the potential of the HKS 2530s, but being realistic for a second, very few are going to have anywhere near the resources to exploit the turbos to the level shown by demonstrator cars from aftermarket tuners. Even increasing the compression ratio and minor headwork as you did is a rather serious step for some people who don't have the skill to do the work themselves or the funds to pay someone else. So in the real world where benefits are weighed heavily against costs, I can understand why some people find the 2530s too laggy. All of this also ignore the crucial element of exactly what you plan to do with your car anyway. Getting semi back on topic for a second, what about camshaft choices for the GT-SSs? I have spoken to my trusted mechanic who was suprisingly opposed to installing aftermarket cams with these turbos as he feels they tend to rob the engine of low-down torque/power, even if there are benefits in the mid-range and upper-range. I say "suprisingly" because their is such overwhelming love for the poncam range on here. I have tried searching for a dyno before/after results with just cams changed to type-b poncams (260/260 9.15) or an equivalent with no luck, so if anyone has them lying about I would love to see them. Edit: The mechanic obviously suggested cam wheels on the stock cams.

I've been looking for JB Weld all over the place; where did you source it? This has reminded me to get on to retro fitting the E55 Hella Bi-Xenons I have. Unfortunately I think I will have to fab some new mounting plates as the E55s are bigger than the standard projectors. Will be following your progress with interest now that I have found the thread

I think you're nuts if you don't replace them. You'll be pissed off if the gasket fails later on all because you wanted to save chump change

Sounds like a waste of time. Stock turbos, lack of info on the rebuild and BOVs are dead give aways of the priorities of the owner. I'd also guess that the rebuild was a quicky for sale.

In case you didn't see in the post I linked to above, thanks for the recommendation to Oak Flats Muffler Men. 4PM on the day the Queen's birthday and they got the job done a treat

Interesting. As I said above, there was absolutely no way one of the nuts would fit without modification. Clearly there is some variation in the manufacture of these parts. I am suprised you still had clearance issues without the adaptor as the lines were only just touching the top of my sensor; perhaps the O2 sensors on the R33/34 are slightly longer or maybe its just more manufacturing variation (ie. the bung was in a slightly different place on mine)? Sorry, I wasn't stating this as some sort of revelatory fact, just thought it was worth mentioning regardless As for the HKS dumps, I can see your point but I would rather take a punt on the longer split having some advantage. The HKS dumps aren't exactly cheap (new especially, although there are a lot of second hand and copy versions floating around) if you need to replace the front pipe as well (which I did as mine was completely rusted through). Although it took a day, I also have the benefit of the supports so no real advantage there either way. The only thing would be heatshields I guess (I assume the HKS can use the standard dump shields or have their own?).

Just for those who are searching for info on the above, I have posted a reply here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=2124191