lwells

Mad dodgey stylee, I love it To be honest, I hate Bunnings so much -- mainly because their staff are always moronic, but also because they are destroying the market for the types of hardware/tool shops I like -- that I would rather spend my money elsewhere, but if all else fails I might give them a call.

I am after ratcheting spanners with flex heads like so (~300kb PDF). "Kingchrome" might be crap, but in my experience "Kincrome" makes decent mid-level tools. They are definately a step up from the rubbish no name (Kincrome has a cheap label, Supatool that competes with those brands). IIRC, Duncan is a fan of their spanners (namely, the stubby spanners) too. Edit: Supatool, not Supercraft.

Snap On actually doesn't make what I am after. No idea if Sidchrome does because they don't seem to have their catalogue online. I know Kincrome does though. So far the cheapest place in Sydney I have found is V E K Tools 3/ 50 Cumberland Hwy Smithfield 2164 (02) 9756 3464 I've had Repco items break on me. I read the warranty conditions and its full of holes

'lo All, Does anyone have recommendations for automotive tool shops in the Sydney metro area? I am not talking the usual Repco/Supercrap type stores, but specialist shops that stock a good range of good brands (not the usual 100 different crap brands) and also have good pricing. I am aware of the TransQuip online webstore, but I would prefer somewhere local that I can go to physically look at an item (and purchase it, if the pricing is good enough). Cheers, Lucien

Well, it could be the standard notice asking for you to provide evidence as to the items worth, at least that's the most likely. Who knows, it could be a letter saying they broke your parcel. Either way, your better off being proactive with customs if you want to see your item this side of a fortnight.

Just call the Sydney Customs Gateway Facility (02) 9897 2108 and ask rather than waiting the week it takes them to send you a notice.

So has anyone found drop in replacement for the R32 GT-R. I just got pricing on genuine Nissan ones, and even at (supposedly) club pricing the pair costs $449...............!!

Speaking of alarms -- if I can hijack ever so slightly -- what's the current go on tracking options? That is, who are the main players at the moment?

If I can hijack ever so slightly -- but on a related matter... With a bunch of new gaskets (for example, with a new engine build, or new turbo install) is it best to leave the engine at idle until all the smoke has cleared (ie. the gaskets have sealed; probably 10-15 mins) or is there a better way to get things to seal (drive around at low revs, or drive around normally, etc)?

Well, from what I can make out the Genesis doesn't come with any fuel rail at all; those ancilliaries are up to the end user to choose (the pictured engine a few posts ago is the Derive). Also the sump, whilst the OEM item, runs the Tomei baffle plates. See here* http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...4_rb26dett.html * Note that its for the 2.6l variety of engines

Saw you cruising down Norton St. a couple of days ago. Four doors aren't my thing, but it looked great

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...540&hl=Reinhard

Not to be argumentative, but are we talking stock manifolds or aftermarket? I'm sure we've all heard of the issues with those Ebay manifolds cracking... Also, do you know where on the manifold the cracking occurs?

No, it never crossed my mind he did this sort of thing in house? Thanks for the tip. I'll get on to all the recommended places on Monday; got distracted today

Troy refers to them as the dogs. Some interesting bits and pieces for this thread : In another thread Troy mentioned there is a dude in Japan who does a double synchro kit.... Anyway, sorry TommyK, I've dragged things off topic Lets get back to drooling over that Tomei engine.

I'd just like to point out that some of us do legally drive GT-Rs on Ps and haven't wrapped them around any trees (heh. rhyming). Obviously not in Victoria though

Yeah, Troy (ylwgtr2) buggered his as did Snowman.

The Design Engineering Inc (DEI) thermal tape seems to be the most popular because it has a 1/4" guide on the tape to help get the overlap right. When you talk about "ceramic based coating" under the wrapping, do you just mean the VHT paint with the pigment, or actually getting a ceramic coating applied professionally (or either)? According to the DEI site, one should also apply a layer of their heat paint over the top of the wrapping to protect it. Finally, does any of this change if we are talking about stainless or mild steel vs. cast iron?

That makes a lot of sense. I mean you're going to have to drop a lot of coin on assembly with the OSG, plus headwork and ancilliaries. Its certainly not a drop in solution like the Tomei. I'd start saving for a dog box Nobody seems to have a particularly high opinion of the getrag box and its one expensive muthertrucker to fix.

Ever heard of the saying "too much of a good thing"? The RRP is about A$140. You can get them for about $120 online. I'm selling for $100. You are welcome to pay 20% or 40% more if you like. If all else fails, I might try ebay. Or alternatively, I might install it on my family's 1960 tractor for a bit of a laugh.

Please post up the details if/when you get them. I am in a similar situtation trying to decide which heat insulation method/s is best, though sadly I only have piddly low mounts to worry about

Speaking of which, would this not also be worth consideration? Billet crank, reuse your engine block, forged this that and everything else. IIRC, OS-G claims the engine can be revved (with appropriate parts, prep, etc) to about 9,000 RPM so its certainly no slouch. Also, what are you going to back on to the engine? If ylwgtr's experience is anything to go by, a stock R34 GT-R box isn't going to last very long...

I'm not interested in proported performance gains. Heat is the real issue as it can adversely effect reliability and longevity. Regarding wrapping the cat, Thermo Tec believe its fine and I have read in another thread that its acceptable and actually improve the emissions performance because the cat reaches operating temperature sooner. Edit: Quite the contrary of what you have said regarding exhast gas flow, I have also read on numerous occasions that its advantageous to keep the heat in (again, this goes back to the proported performance gains).

Yup, they are GT-SSs. I assume you mean have the tongue machined off the dump/front as opposed to machining out the exhaust cover. I'd be interested to hear anything else you have to say about installing the GT-SSs (I was going to post a question about it anyway). By turbo brackets, I assume you mean the turbo support braces/brackets? Do the foul on something, or just not fit period? Any solutions/recommendations (or any other thoughts)? Thanks