lwells

Like this, you mean?:

Is there actually any proof of the series three boxes being markedly* better? I mean, we've all heard they are better, but is there actually anything to back that up? * Just to be clear, I mean that they are significantly better, not just the odd nip and tuck.

Heh, sorry for digging up an old thread. One of my R32 GT-R's synchros might be on the way out (that, or the leak on to the clutch wasn't fixed), so was just digging around for info on options. Seems like its a choice between a dog box (too pricey, not very streetable) or getting a Nissan syncrho + bearing kit. Shame there is no middle ground (ie. aftermarket synchro option). There's something for you if you want a challenge Troy

Thanks

Relax mate. I know you might be pissed off with the responses you got, but I wasn't criticising your work, just pointing out this has been done (and documented) before. For example (and so people searching might find something useful): http://www.geocities.jp/arthur2776/mfd.html http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity-Circuit/2496/mfd.html http://park2.wakwak.com/~hosono/car/bnr34/exh_sensor.htm (link is dead) Still, its nice to see someone in Australia has done it (IIRC, its been done in the UK and HK as well as JP). I might give you a buzz some time if I get stuck doing mine

I prefer gold digger

Not really. There is more than enough info floating around on how to do this. Its not exactly hard.

How exactly do you need to change your style?

Out of interest, are the rebuild kits for the standard synchro setup, or are you talking about part/full dog setups?

Al: What was the actual cost of the port? Re: polishing, my understanding is that you want to leave some roughness to aid fuel atomisation on a street car.

Mmm.. nice tip duncan, ta. Having some troubles with second gear myself so it would be nice to work out if its the box or the clutch (again). Anyone got a rough price on replacing synchros/overhauling the gearbox?

Yes I have heard of this too, but never seen it with my own eyes. Maybe someone can clear this up.

Your wish is my.. something. Thanks to GTR R32. Larger A/R on [edit] intake side.

The airbox is stock, but not the air intake. They run some sort of 'big suction kit'.

Noice website. Was there any explanatory notes for the parts? Sometimes parts get deprecated, hence more than one part number.

Studs/nuts should cost you about $100 max. Don't buy Nissan genuine, they charge a fortune (as you seem to have found out ) for no reason at all. They are fairly standard bits and cost about $3 a pop aftermarket. Gaskets are expensive unfortunately: you can buy some aftermarket ones if you want (not turbo --> dump though). If its any consolation, if you ordered the HKS GT-SS's and get pinged with customs/duty you could be up for more like $3800.

I don't see why the ROX207 would be fine for some R33 RB25DETs, and not for others. That doesn't make sense. If someone with access to FAST could confirm that the part number for the OEM O2 sensor is the same across all R33 RB25DETs then the ROX207 would either be suitable or not. No mods doesn't mean anything though. You could be loosing economy because of a poorly performing fuel system, for instance. Besides, we all know these cars run very rich on local fuel without re-tuning so that should be your first stop for decent fuel economy.

Its only going to make a difference if your old sensor is dead or dieing. So you should test yours, not rely on whether its making a difference to other people

Bumpity boo

On this forum HICAS seems to stand for: Hi I Can't be Arsed Searching Apparently its meant to stand for High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering

An odd question. Does anyone have the approximate length and width of a N1 style R32 GT-R cat-back exhaust?

Mine got hit with customs too. Only ~$80 though That's not correct. There is a flex joint on one of pipes: its on the final section (i.e. the Y-pipe bit).

The Trust MX pipe is a regular aftermarket front pipe (~$500). You talking about the Trust/Greddy Front Extension Pipes. They are just HKS knockoffs. The split is too short.

Yes, its a bit much to ask for a private individual to change the dump/fronts and touch nothing else. There is, however, quite a lot of annecdotal evidence from RB20/25 owners that changing just the dump/front pipe can have quite large improvements. Obviously there are design differences between the two setups, but the basic principles are the same: freer air flow. Well, if you look at the standard dumps its pretty clear to see why they might be a flow restriction, particularly if you upgrade your turbos. Again, there is a lot of annecdotal evidence that comes from the proven gains from freer flowing exhausts on turbo cars and car manufacturers well known preference for restrictive designs to keep power, noise and pollution in check. Also, I would point out its not just about a peak kW here or there: I seem to recall (but can't find with the useless search function) SydneyKid stating that he found a 300RPM improvement in spool time by changing to a split dump setup (and I believe it was the only change). More like $1200-1300 for the Graddy/Trusts. The CES 'competition pipes' are in the same ballpark IIRC, but more for stainless. Anyway, that's all a long winded way of saying I'd love to see some dyno evidence too, but I think there is enough circumstantial evidence to say they are a worthwhile investment. Richard: Sorry, I saw your post in The Mafia's thread but didn't get around to replying. I have the pipes sitting next to me, at the end of my bed I'll take some decent photos shortly, and you're welcome to inspect if you want. Give me a couple days as my honors thesis is due on Friday.

What SK is saying (and has said numerous times, as have others) is that split is better as long as the split length is sufficiently long at around 400mm. Too short and you start to get turbulence which negates any benefit of a split style dump. The HKS style dumps are a comprised design. Basically they made them so you could just replace the original dumps and not worry about the front pipe. Because the OEM dumps aren't very long -- and HKS couldn't change their length without ruining their modularity -- the split is quite short. If you want a sufficiently long split you need to buy a dump+front pipe set.