lwells

Yup, again, agreed, but thought I would throw it out there in case some wisen old sage knew better. I wonder how disruptive to flow having that gap will be? It interesting to note that there is a gap of about 1-2cm in the divider at one end on the exhaust housing to allow gasses to move from the exhaust wheel side to the wastegate side. SW20-GT: Thanks tosh, I will call them tomorrow. If anyone has any other recommendations, fire away.

Yes, I was thinking just to have the tongue machined flat. However, looking at the exhaust housing on the HKS's, the split finishes about 5mm from the top. I was just wondering (out loud) if its worth leaving a mm or two of the tongue sticking out of the front pipes for a closer fit. Obvious issue is that the metal is going to expand when its (very) hot...

Congratulations. I know someone with three nipples.

Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone has recommendations for places to get some machining done, either in Sydney or Wollongong. I need to get the surfaces machined on my exhaust manifolds and the tongue removed on these Greddy/Trust split front/dumps.... Speaking of which, those of you who have used the Greddy/Trust extension pipes with turbos that already have a exhaust/wastegate split, how much did you have taken off? Cheers, Lucien.

Someone must have gone down this path before...?

Up up and away.

Time to resurrect a thread So I have a few parts I want to install on my R32 GT-R shortly... 1) HKS GT-SS 2) Trust/Greddy Front Ext. Pipes 3) Magic Cat 4) Fujitsubo exhaust Anyway, I need some advice on the best way to insulate the various parts. I did a search, and found this, this and this threads helpful. However I still have questions Lets start with.... what exactly should I be insulating? Manifolds, exhaust side of turbos, front pipes and cat? Are there any other parts? For instance, SK mentions wrapping the heat shields as well. Should I insulate up to, or including, the cat, or all the way to the muffler? Next, what's the best method for each part. The major ways I have come across are (a) exhaust wrap (b) ceramic coating ( c) HPC. Everyone raves about HPC, but I am always amazed at the cost: e.g. $400 for a manifold. Some say that wrapping can lead to cracking, but Rev210 is definately of the opinion that wrapping is just as good as coating and the cracking issues are overblown. So what's best? Should I wrap the dump/fronts, manifolds and cat? That still leaves the turbos which obviously can't be wrapped, so I have the choice of a turbo bag or some sort of coating. Turbo bags seem to be about $200-250ea (so about $500 for both) which seems a little exxy. R32 TT: how much was the ceramic coating that you got done? Anyway, some suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm after some exhaust wrap. Updated price. Cmon folks, $100 for this sexy timer.

Gasket sealant might be OK for your situation (certainly not the OP's though), but its still not advisable. The dump --> front pipe gaskets are gettable without drama, so I'd just replace them with a new set personally. As for the original question, lots of people have gaskets blow. With that much heat and pressure, and the constant expansion and contraction, its of little suprise really. You might have a broken stud as well, though the most common studs to fail and the head --> manifold studs. Speaking of which, its a good idea to replace those studs while you're at it. You may need to have a surface or two machined, and you'll also need a few incidental parts like locking tabs, etc.

Forums crapped themselves. Stupid double post. (How the hell do you delete a post since the forum upgrade?)

The factory oil pressure guage/sender are widely known for being inaccurate and slow. I had a similar problem with low readings on my car. $40 for a new (well, second hand) pressure switch fixed the issue. Just take it to your local mechanic and ask them to stick a pressure guage on so they can tell if its the guage/sender or something more serious.

I would prefer closer to $110, but I guess I could have my arm twisted to $100 + post/pickup. If anyone has a roll of unused heat wrap, I would be interested in a swap too.

Well, $120 ono. I meant to say that anyway

Item: Trust/Greddy Full Auto Timer Turbo&NA. (Silver with blue LCD) Location: Sydney Item Condition: Brand new (literally) Reason for Selling: Surplus to requirements. Price and Payment Conditions: $100 + post/pickup. Contact Details: PM me. The short story: I was given this timer by Autobarn because they screwed up an order I had with them. The long story: I ordered some parts from Autobarn last year. The order took forever to arrive so as a sorry gift I was given a Greddy Full Auto Timer. I sold that to a forum member, only to find out that the item was broken. I immediately refunded their money and had them send the timer back. It sat on the shelf for a couple of months as I didn't have time to get out to my nearest Autobarn during work hours (because it was a gift, I had no invoice so they had to call someone at Autobarn HQ before they could refund it, thus I had to go during normal work hours). Anyway, I finally got around to swapping it over about a fortnight ago. What it does: In laymans terms it keeps your car running after you have removed the key for a preset period and thus oil and water continue to circulate and cool down key mechanical components and thus improves longevity. This unit is quite fully featured and includes a bunch of other gizmos (see below). What the manufacturer says about it: The basic function of a turbo timer is to allow the vehicle to idle the engine for a timed period, with the ignition key removed. This allows the engine oil and turbo center cartridge to cool down and prevent internal turbo damage. GReddy Full Auto Timers pack tons of features into one economical, compact unit. In addition to two standard programmable count down presets (P-1, P-2), the GReddy Full Auto Timer also has two auto timer modes (A-L, A-H). The modes estimate the driving RPM according to the vehicles alternator signal and then recommend a count down time. Also new are the stopwatch/lap time and attack modes along with a built in voltmeter and speedometer. Still standard are the optional parking brake and speedo safety hook-ups. Here is a photo from Trust's site. If people are genuinely interested and want some photos of the actual item, I'll unpack it and take some photos, but its just like this photo except in an orange box More info: http://www.greddy.com/prod_full_auto_timer.htm http://www.trust-power.com/timer/ <-- cute flash demo (in Japanese). http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/fullauto_timer.html <-- overview (in Japanese) http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/fullauto_timer2.html <-- features (in Japanese)

Just a couple of small points. * Forum topic emails now no longer have the topic in the email subject. * For a long time, emails informing of a PM waiting have read You have a new personal message from "" (i.e. it doesn't actually say who its from). If you're fiddling, can you perhaps see if you can get the senders name to appear. * I use the thread tracking feature a lot. When I click on 'Track Thread', the default option selected is always "Delayed Emailed Notification". Is there a preference that can be exposed that allows me to set the default to some other option (namely "Immediate Email Notification")? Cheers, Lucien.

Get a pro to do it; you'll be kicking yourself if you screw it up. Apparently there are mobile guys that do stud removal (or so I am told by a friend who used one).

So, in other words, you have a mechanic making guesses. Don't know about you, but I would want more than just a guess based on a rough description. Again, why not just save yourself the possible expense of a completely rooted engine and just tow it to a mechanic that is experienced with the Skylines? If its because you want to save money.... well you bought the wrong car if you're worried about the cost of a tow or trailer hire.

We do have couriers and AusPost these days Seriously, that's how I got my clutch to Jim. Was about $30 through Express Post. If you're willing to pay up to $1000, I would get the Jim Berry "Stage One". Its about $700, and fitting will probably be another $300.

No offence mate, but why ask for help if you don't listen to any of the advice? As Mashrock said (well, pretty much everyone in the thread), stop turning the car on. Find a reputable workshop in your area with experience with Skylines, get the car towed, and have it inspected. Its not going to cost you all that much for them to give it the once over. If its something minor you have peace of mind and can move on. If it is a big end and the crank is out of whack, you're potentially saving yourself thousands if its not already too late. If it is the latter and you keep going its going to end in tears.

Hi Mate, Did you ever determine if ceramic dust was the culprit?

Yup, don't work for me either.

The full build up thread is over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98086 I wondered why the name change happened. What's the background to this for those of us obviously not in the know?

Well, my GT-R is going (I hestitate to add "strong" ). The only real problem is a blown exhaust manifold gasket which I have been too lazy to fix. That's planned for the next month or so. I had an issue with the clutch: when it was replaced the original was almost brand new but absolutely drenched in oil, but no obvious sign of a leak. Bit of a weird one, but things seem to be OK now. In the year+ I have owned it, its done maybe 2000-3000KM. I've dropped a lot of coin (well, by my poor-arts-student standards) on it. I fully expected that. Soon as I got it I changed pretty much every fluid I could think of (wee for about $500 in oil alone). I drive it very sedately though: it doesn't see the track, it rarely sees redline as I just don't feel the need the trash its tits off on the street. I'm slowly gathering all the mods I want to do for now: better flowing exhaust, cam wheels, powerfc, dump/front pipes and new turbos. I don't plan to turn the wick up (well, much... famous last words ), just free up the exhaust side and replace those ceramic turbos which give me nightmares (failure point no. 1). Ideally I would also replace the camshafts and, more importantly, fix the oiling issue (oil pump/collar and sump baffling; failure point no. 2), but the budget doesn't allow for the time being. I should get around to a leak down test, but haven't felt it necessary yet. Anyway, to cut a long story short, a few problems here and there, but nothing you wouldn't anticipate for a 15 yr old performance car. *shrug*

Charlie, That is terrible news, especially coming on top of all your dramas getting the car here. I hope you can divulge all the details at the appropriate time.

Just out of interest, I put the OS Giken cam I bought on the scale. It weight in at ~324grams including the four locking nuts.