lwells

Have a look at some of the Fujitsubo range: they are well known for the quality and quietness. They also list dB readings for the exhausts which is handy.

Whoops.. I read that as "what time did it do"... Seriously though, its tragic that a select few give our Skylines such a bad name :) No doubt we can expect another crackdown on "rev heads" (read: everyone including the sensible drivers).

Its Bathurst inspired because it is a winnar! "You're all a pack of assholes". Classic.

Well one persons laggy is another persons acceptable Is this on the race car? 2530s are BB AFAIK

Its a toughie. I'm sure for every few stories of nasty reversion there are probably hundreds and hunreds of ceramic wheels that have gone pop with no real problems. Like you I am looking to upgrade them not for huge power, but for piece of mind. The 707160-5 Garrett seems to equate to the about the old HKS2530: to me that seems like a bit much for a stock car. The 707160-7 is basically the HKS GT-SS (give or take a mm here and there) and might be the business for people like us. Unfortunately it seems Garrett AU doesn't have much interest in selling the -7 -- from what I have been told; have to check with a few other retailers -- so it might have to be an import jobbie (probably from the US). Edit: I wouldn't touch R32 N1s. Too laggy.

Does anyone have any other recommendations for U.S.-based turbo sellers? Google turned up a bunch of useless websites...

A lot of people seem to like the Super Dragers. I've always been a little sceptical of their design given the HKS pipework has some fairly large bends in it (atleast for the R32). I would personally opt for a more straightfoward "N1" style pipework.

So little love in the room Whether its 8 or 16 hours is rather irrelevant to cowie165 if he is doing the work himself for the first time...

God no: it would be more than a four hour job then You should also get the mechanic to check the water pump and idler pulley/bearings while they are at it.

Twin plate? Unless its a highly modified GTS-t your better of spending the money on something else IMHO. Don't underestimate the power of the single-plate once touched by the hand of Jim Berry

AFAIK = As Far As I Know

I'm guessing you either mean RB26DETT or RB25DET. Belts for both engines are the same AFAIK. If the belt snaps you'll have valves kissing pistons, so no its not a non-interference design. There are probably some tell-tale signs (fraying, excessive movement) but I wouldn't know for sure.

100,000KM is not a hard and fast rule. Its not as if the belt is perfectly fine up until 100k, and then at 100001KM decides to give up the ghost. Your also assuming that at no stage has your car be rewound. For what its worth, I would change it (must get around to getting mine changed too).

That is very much my thinking too. I bought a bog stock R32 GT-R because I specifically wanted to avoid having some shagged out rust bucket that's been (poorly) modified (not saying they all are though). I would much rather know exactly what has been changed, when, and by whom. Greg: No to put the knockers on, but don't count your chickens until they hatch. I'm sure we have all seen cars that appear on Prestige or elsewhere with the usual "supplier reports its in good mechanical condition" line only for it to have serious issues.

I've had the Trust pipes on order for nearly two months, so get in early Probably your best bang-for-buck is going to be a set of the HKS split dumps (or copies). You can get them around the $500. Aftermarket used front pipes are usually around the $300-400 (depending on brand, model/style, and material). Before you know it you've almost paid as much as you would had you gone for the Trust pipes. The only benefit of the former route is that you can buy the stuff (and fit them) in stages. Hiflo cat would be either a Magic Cat or one of the Catco's that batmobile sells. Your probably up for another $300-odd for that.

IIRC, John from UAS mentioned its about a 16hr job for them too. I reakon a home mechanic could probably do it in about 3 days if you have a decent set of tools and somewhere to do it. I had to pull it all apart on a sloped driveway without access to stands: my legs killed for days Some of the highlights include the rear heatshield not wanting to come off or go back on; the nearly impossible to get too manifold nuts; the front turbo/manifold fouling on the aircon; the million times I dropped the copper washers. I could go on and on.... I was deeply scarred by the event The good news is once the front turbo is off, it gets a lot easier. For the home mechanic, its also one of those jobs where it could go quite quickly if your lucky or you could spend 3 hours trying to get one nut undone. I have to do it all again shortly. If I have time, I'll document it properly.

Mmmm... noice. Are they forged or cast? Might have to get my TE-37s resprayed in that chrome colour.

Shutup: your making me look like a fool

Nice to see I am not the only one who thinks that the Bee-R car looks all out of proportion. Would kill for the Mercury Silver TE37s though.

Its not a factory TV: AFAIK there wasn't such an option for the R32. If you look at the TV's fitted to cars of a similar vintage, that's a very good thing Its going to have been an aftermarket unit. I have a Xenarc LCD with a very similar base to the diagram you posted. It could also have been some sort of boost controller or something.

IIRC, that's what shops like Nengun do. Its expensive but saves the hassle of container shipping.

Realdolls has been around for a loooooong time. It did the rounds like Goatse.cx. I'd love to feel one of these dolls (that sounds so wrong) and see if they feel like human flesh.

OMG. Its Clippy's Japanese cousin I love this little insights in to peoples lives/world. In some ways these more mundane things are the most interesting.

Lipsmackingly good. What a shame there is no R34 to lust over... still the Supras look the goods.

Yes, its a super annoying job. Took me five days the last time I pulled them off and reinstalled (well, it was my first time ). Its not something you should do unless you need too (or have some reason: i.e. new turbos). I think you'll be pissed off at the lengths you will have to go to only to reinstall stock items Sooooo.. if your going to do it, I would at the very least change the dump pipes and if you can afford it, put some steelwheeled ball bearing turbos on. My understanding is you can give them a reasonable check over by look/touch -- i.e. check the shaft for play, spin the wheel, look for excessive oil/dirt residue, etc -- but if you want a definitive answer, you need a float gauge (or a turbo shop).