mosquitocoils

Oh wow, jeez... I'm glad I didn't pick up those 34 shocks then. Mind you they may still fit, but they use a different part number. I don't know enough about these things though, so I'm going to leave it there.

I've been told by both my mechanic and wrecker-supplies-guy that R33 and R34 shocks are interchangeable.

Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah

I forgot to mention, I used this guide about a month ago, to help remove and assess my internals. Thanks for a great write-up!

I know you said you're on low boost... but what do you mean by that? The reason I ask is because it does sound quite like fuel cut due to overboosting.

If I were to cut out a metal 'gasket' like you described Luke, but then drilled a few small holes in it, would that essentially allow for flutter at low RPM, but it would still dump properly when boosting? I remember being told this by several people, and saw it on the net somewhere ages ago but can't for the life of me find any information about it now. Quite keen to do this actually.

EDIT: Blonde moment..... linked to the wrong guide lol

I'll split my post into two parts. THEORY: Didn't you already try two TPS from wreckers and you still had the same problems? I wouldn't go buying a brand new one just yet. Follow the AAC valve clean + idle reset in the tutorials section. I did it last weekend and now have no problems with erratic revs/dropped revs. While doing it, you are meant to unplug your TPS and see if the revs change, if it makes any difference then it means the RPM screw on your ECU needs to also be adjusted. If the RPM stays the same when you unplug your TPS, then it's assumed your ECU RPM screw is set properly (I think that's what it all means). SOLUTION (Possible): I think you should try that AAC clean, disconnect your battery (and put your brake pedal down, to release any residual charge) reconnect battery (this resets your ECU) set your idle screw on your AAC to about 750-900, then unplug TPS and see what happens. Then try and set your ECU RPM screw to the same 750-900. Reconnect TPS - hopefully the revs will stay the same. Report back mate.

Does the other end unplug further in? Maybe you can take it out the other way by doing that, if that end is smaller... I'm not sure though.

I'd dare say it would be *easy* enough... if you've never done anything like it before, make sure you have a check through this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l&hl=mirror There's another guide floating around somewhere in the tutorials section that explains it better but I couldn't find it.

I have the same immobiliser and never had an issue like this. Having said that, I think Denis is on the money with this one - the m80's TT is turning the car off before your TT unit is.

Yep, it's already been solved, I know, but that's your air con condensor. I had EXACTLY the same thought when I first saw it... plus my front mount in front it both of those... was rather confusing for someone who didn't know how turbo cars worked... lol There are some posts on here about wiring the fan to come on all the time (or be wired to a switch so you can control it) I thought... in the tutorial section. I believe it's for an R32... could be wrong about all this info by the way haha. But there might be some answers for you in that tutorial.

Any tips on how to get it out?

I thought they would be the same. I bought a set of series 1.5 R33 inner plastic guards to fit my 93 series 1 just 2 days ago. Haven't put them in yet but I have no doubts.

You really should check the engine yourself every week or so, even if it's just for the oil and coolant levels, and to quick go over everything making sure all hoses are still connected properly, all bolts done up properly etc etc. Letting it go for 6 months is just neglectful. Let's say it was low on oil, and you've smashed it up to 7k and held it there.... I dunno, it just doesn't seem good. I would start with the things that are easy and cheap to fix, like sparks/coilpacks and AFM (as already mentioned), check all your hoses, plugs and fluid levels, and maybe take it to a mechanic if this doesn't solve anything.

Ohhh that's the best thing I've ever heard! Hahahaha I'll definately be getting one when I get paid next. Is that right about discounts for us forum members? Maybe PM me if you'd rather not discuss openly hahaha.

Hey mate, not sure if it's the same on the stags but on my R33 I pulled off my side mirror... there's 2 bolts inside the door holding it on, you really need to remove the door trim to get that A-sail off to expose the bolts. Then disconnect the wiring etc and the mirror assembly should just slide straight out of the door mount. My gears were corroded stuck fast and covered in crap... was gonna be way too much work to clean/fix it so I'm just holding out until I have 'spare' money to find another one from a wreckers... I'm not fussed by it til then haha.

My guess would be a fueling issue or spark issue. Was that pump installed recently/properly etc etc? Or has your power FC been fiddled with lately? It might be messing stuff up if it's sending the wrong signals now. Other than that I'd check your sparks/coil packs and all connections to them. Although I just re-read your post and you mentioned a popping noise? Have you checked all your vacuum piping? Check all your IC piping and hoses and stuff too... Not sure how much help I've been, but at least it might give you somewhere to start. Good luck mate, make sure you let us know how your hunt goes!

Yeah I really want to get a USB ECUTalk cable to hook my laptop up to my car... can anyone explain how it would work though? My battery life isn't very long on my laptop (less than 20 minutes or so!) so I would want to just take the car for a spin (once hot) and hope that some software would log all the data for me... then save the log file before the laptop dies.... haha Then obviously get it back inside, power it up from mains, and open the log file and check it all out.... is this what I would be able to do with the ECUtalk gear?

This man knows his stuff, listen to him. I can say from yesterday's experience it's a 10mm bolt. I did the aac clean and adjusted my idle... I'm idling at 700 now and it doesn't drop to nearly stalling anymore when going from say 4th gear -> neutral. Wicked.

Ok can someone explain the difference between the IAC and AAC? By the difference, I really mean where both are located? I thought I'd had a go at removing the AAC from the back of the plenum... is that the right one? So where abouts is the IAC? I always (stupidly) thought they were the same thing..... d'oh!

Yeah, mine does this too... best to just let the car sit for a little while before you take off, maybe 20 seconds at least. Mine doesn't fluctuate THAT high though... it'll drop to about 1500 after taking my foot off gas (in neutral) for a couple of seconds then down to about 800.

Hey mate, I think I'm having exactly the problem you are. I posted about it, it's only like the 10th post down lol... still haven't solved it though. There's a link to my youtube video of it as well, have a listen and let me know if the noise is the same. Happens when my car is idle, warmed up. My mechanic has told me my AAC valve needs replacing so I'm waiting for someone else to verify that this could be causing this noise? If so, then it could very well be your problem too. CLICK HERE LINK OMG CLICK CLICK <== Link to my post, containing youtube link.

Yeah, my idle is at a constant 2 when warm. You probably have nothing to worry about... but I can't say with any certainty obviously haha.

Anyone else have any ideas? I also have some trouble on cold starts, if this helps at all. It starts no problems but the revs stay low and it can sometimes die, unless I step on the gas a tiny bit. Do these factors point to AAC valve?