trustr32

Hey guys so exhaust has been cleaned. it did smoke as soon as engine went back in but that was from my original issue of a copy oil pump (didn't find out until I pulled the engine again) running at 115psi at idle. I originally thought glazed bores too but that wouldn't explain how it smokes when the y-pipes back on and doesn't when its only out of the dumps. I cleaned the cooler and every other pipe other than twin turbo pipe is new custom stuff. Engine was built by pros they do mostly all the machining in the tassie scene and have built tons of RB's. Engine runs like a dream idles beautifully revs crisply if it was registered id take it for a run at night so no one could see the smoke with the exhaust off you can hear both turbos spool down after a rev so everything is sweet other than god damn oil smoke. I've got a couple of numbers of some people to ring and chat to but I'm also going to get hold of a set of steel wheeled stockers and swap them out so I can eliminate any actual engine problems hopefully and go from there.

So I thought I would start eliminating my exhaust piece by piece. I thought maybe the CAT was going to be causing the restriction so I put my y-pipe back on without the rest of the exhaust and BAM smokes back. It wasn't even on there long enough to heat the Y-pipe up. So I am absolutely stumped now I have no idea what is going wrong.

Yeah man full reco top and bottom. Just a basic build nothing expensive or over the top. just new parts/gaskets/bearings with forged rods/pistons. And hi octane sump extension.

Okay. I don't expect anyone to be able to diagnose the problem over the internet and I'm not even sure anyone will have seen this problem before but I have an R32 GTR that I've been having long standing issues with oil smoke from the exhaust. The car has not been driven since rebuild. I'll outline the history briefly so people know whats going on. R32 GTR Fully rebuilt engine about 14 months ago with 0kms on it. Car has not been driven at all since. New 2860-5's New stock position custom made stainless exhaust manifolds Xforce dumps 2.5 - 3.25 inch stainless y-pipe New 3.5 inch stainless 100cell high flow cat 3.5 inch straight through exhaust with cannon New Custom 3 inch stainless intakes New vent to atmo catch can with 20mm inlet/outlets -I put the car back together and had oil smoke from the exhaust. Cleaned exhaust and noticed oil seeping from front turbo dump pipe. Pulled front turbo off sent back to be inspected checked out fine. Put car back together still smoking. -Got 1mm restricted banjo bolts made. No change. Found very high oil pressure on idle (115psi) pulled engine out put new N1 oil pump with gears back on. Put engine back in oil pressure fixed so took in to get a run in tune. Mechanic rang me and said there was oil smoke on boost. -Took car home. Checked 1mm restricted banjo bolts they turned out to be nearly 2mm. Made some actual 1mm ones no change. -Put stock oil feed banjo bolts in and car smokes when revved past 2500rpm. The car will not smoke all the way through warm up. I can leave it idling for 10 minutes without any smoke whatsoever but as soon as I give it some revs it will smoke oil smoke from the exhaust. Now I pulled the y-pipe off this arvo to change the rear turbo oil drain because Stao from Hypergear suggested the right angle bends might be restricting the oil draining from the rear turbo causing it to seep out past the seal and before I changed the oil drain I decided to warm it up and see which turbo was smoking more front or rear. Warmed the car up no smoke. Nothing unusual but when I gave it a few revs still no smoke. I let it warm right up and revved it up and down the rev range and there was not an ounce of oil smoke coming out of the dumps. A slight puff of carbon once I backed off but I could not get it to smoke. Now I cant understand how just dropping the exhaust off would fix the problem but it's like chalk and cheese. With exhaust on it plumes fresh burnt oil smoke without the exhaust theres nothing. Could the exhaust be causing too much back pressure or something causing the turbo shafts to shift forward allowing oil to weep past or something? I'm sorry to ask everyone but I'm at the end of my patience this has been going on for over a year with no fix and no mechanic seems to be interested in troubleshooting they all just say turbo seals are f**ked. ANY ideas will be welcomed. Cheers Brodie

Depends on what you mean by flattening. Do you want it to sit up flush with the tops of your quarter panels or just the little depression in either side where the stock wing sits flattened out? If your after the first one don't even bother trying just buy one if your after the second then it's achieveable but a bit of work involved in welding up the holes first.

Theres 2 parts to the locking mechanism on a boot. The actual locking barrel where your key goes in and the catch that actually clips shut around the little anchor in the beaver panel. The barrel is connected to the catch via a metal rod that when the key is turned in the barrel pulls a lever in the catch causing it to unlock/release. If you get another boot lid you can simply remove your barrel from your existing lid and put it in the new lid and connect it to the catch on the new lid with the rod. Once you pull the trim off and have a look it will all make sense.

God knows why! If I lived within 100km of this build I'd jump at the chance to be a helper. Although I doubt whether I'd be worthy enough to be in the same shed as this masterpiece.

Well how long is a piece of string? Firstly what sorta car? What colour? Is there any damage? Bare metal resprays are always expensive but if your doing the whole shell (interior/engine bay/boot) aswell then be prepared to pay. Lets say you had a skyline and wanted it bare metal respray in black. Without the interior, engine bay, boot you'd be looking at $10k+ for a decent job. If they had to remove engine, all interior, and bare metal those and spray you'd look towards $20k if you could find someone to do it. Why do you want the interior done? Most cars you cant even see the interior because its all covered by trims.

Just quietly fark I laughed at the add. For a moment I nearly considered buying it just because of that lol.

I don't think anyone is questioning whether it can be done because it has been many times over. I think the point we're trying to make is that he should go the safe approach make some decent power and have a bit of fun and THEN when he has the money ready for a rebuild turn up the boost and see how long before she goes bang. Might surprise him and run forever in which case he'll be up $10k+ but it could die 2 days later and then he's up for a rebuild. Imagine how happy he would be if he did that straight off the bat and it blows and can't afford the rebuild for 6 months. I'm sure "but the guys on SAU said it should be right" would be said once or twice.

^+1

Yeah I'm pretty sure I have the same problem. original pump had 115psi at idle needless to say I pulled that off and put an N1 pump with jpc gears but I'm pretty sure my pressure is still high. I need to get a proper oil pressure gauge on to check but just going off the stock gauge with new sender it sits just below 4 which I'm pretty sure means its sitting on 40+ at warm idle.

Yeah I know what you mean about lack of info. I have searched the web over and it seems that like with everything else the more people you talk to the more opinions you get lol. How bad is your pressure portaz?

Also interested to know how it went portaz is it best to contact DVS JEZ for details on what he did?

I'm also going through this atm and have been for a while now. If you want to use stock lines etc get a machine shop to tap a grub screw into the centre of your banjo bolts and drill the appropriate sized hole through that. You can then also remove them later if need be.

I would probably wait to get new turbo's before doing anything with the boost last thing you want is those stock wheels exploding. If you've got the money for your 'First' round of mods I would get all your bolt on upgrades ie. turbo's, ecu, exhaust, and get it tuned. Put some suspension in (go into what sort later) new tyres to suit your rims, HICAS lockout bar and then enjoy while you save some more cash. You'll end up with decent power, minimal outlay and parts you can always use after a rebuild. The last thing your going to want is to have a stock GTR then go straight to your maximum power output. You'll love it for a few months then get bored with the power and end up wanting to change turbo's or something silly. It's more fun when you go from stock to 230-250kw which will seem like a ball tearer drive that for a year while you save then get the motor done and up the power to your goal of 300+. Humans are pretty shit for getting bored with stuff quickly this way you get the fun of upgrading twice over without having to buy everything twice. And on a side note yeah he means basic rebuild with upgraded internals. That's what I got with mine basic rebuild with Forged pistons/rods, new bearings, gaskets, seals, new oil pump (already had the longer crank which so should yours) and Hi-Octane sump extension. Knowing what I know now I would have taken it to a decent mechanic who knows RB's given him the cash and said give it back to me rebuilt and running lol.

Hey man like everyone said wheel alignment is first place to start and after that get it to a panel shop with a Caroliner bench. They will be able to chuck it up on the bench and measure the car using a computerized measuring system. Easiest way to check it and if need be fix it cause it has puller attachments that go directly onto the bench. http://www.car-o-liner.com.au/ If your talking about the section above the front wheel that's not your chassis rail either the chassis rail is on the bottom of that section where the front crossmember bolts up onto. Look down next to your engine and you'll see the rectangular section near the engine mount so if it's only that upper section then it's most likely cosmetic Chassis rail run's back underneath the car. If the car drives fine and it's only panel gaps that are the problem then it will be a pretty easy fix. It doesn't look crumpled so it's probably just bent in a bit and needs the front corner pulled out. Don't loose hope if it was bad enough to be an absolute nightmare to fix then you would've immediately noticed more than just poor panel gaps when you first looked at the car. Of course I might be completely wrong and you do mean the actual chassis rail in which case it's a bit more work involved. My mate and I did a left hand chassis rail on a Silver 500rwkw R33 Gtst race car just before Christmas only with a floor rack and that turned out spot on. That plus heavy rear quarter damage and painting the whole left hand side cost him a bit over $3k including second hand Door, Guard and side skirt. Just remember its only metal and it's all fixable.

Nice car man looks like a very tidy platform to start with. I would still gather all the parts you are thinking about because they are all stuff that can be used now and then go onto your new built engine if/when that happens but like everyone's saying I would definitely think about keeping the power below 300 if you want to give the engine as much chance of survival as possible and I'm sure once you install the mods and it starts making double the power it has now you'll love life no matter what the power figure is. When I bought my GTR I test drove about half a dozen stock ones with just cat backs and then drove mine (found out later it had a chipped ECU) but cant have been much more than 200 or so at the wheels and man it's a hell of a difference. Anyway good luck and can't wait to see the progress.

Hey Sedat you probably are already aware of this not sure if it's stated in the info that comes with the pump but the Nitto pumps runs dual springs and you need to remove one otherwise your oil pressure will be around 140 psi. PM a member on her named Shazz as he just had to remove his engine to fix that problem.

What sorta good deal are we talkin.............

Would love to come but turns out when I got my car tuned the other week it still has oil smoke issues on boost which need sorting out. Was considering a tester at basky to see exactly how bad the problem is but don't think I'll be ready for sunday.

Hey any further info on this Shazz? Sorry to hijack but I'm interested to see how you got on as I'm having the same problems as you and a few others as well. Basically built 26, usual mods new -5's originally with trust oil pump which turned out to be a copy causing high oil pressure. Found out after I had already fitted 1mm oil restrictors to the banjo bolts and then removed the front turbo (only one leaking) and sent back to be inspected all came back clear so engine out new N1 pump with billet gears oil pressure solved. Had it in to get tuned last Thursday and apparently it's still smoking oil smoke out the exhaust when it comes on boost. Not doing it on idle like it was with the old oil pump just once the turbos are working. Pulling my f**king hair out because this has been going on for 9 months now and EVERYTHING is brand new. Only thing that's not new is the stock oil feeds. Haven't had a chance to pull anything apart again but the mechanic pulled the intakes off and there's no oil in the front housings so he thinks rear turbo oil seals. I was wondering as an absolute long shot whether one of the hard lines is blocked causing all the oil to feed to the one turbo pushing it past the seal. Got no idea if this is even possible but ever since I bought the car and with 3 different sets of turbo's (2 were 2nd hand stock sets) I've had oil smoke out the exhaust and the only original thing on there other than the block and head which have both been reco'd is the oil and water feeds. Gonna pull the y pipe off and see if it's one or both of the turbo's leaking and which one (was the front last time) and also pull the oil feeds off and test them. Anyway just wanted to see if you had any luck with yours. Also Guilt-toy mentioned you can damage your turbo quickly with high oil pressure could this be my problem? Car has done exactly 0kms other than what it did on the dyno the other day.

+1 on the better sound!

Na the scuff pad (grey scotchbrite) is used to "key" the old paint (take the shine off/make it dull) without scratching it too harshly like sandpaper would so the new paint will stick to it. Don't mean to be negative man but it looks like your car is metallic grey/black? And it also looks like those top few scratches are actually dented? I'm all for DIY but if you haven't had much experience doing this sort of work and want a decent job done then find a professional to do it. While he's on the right track there's a fair bit more involved than what qskes has described which for any decent job that will last you cant bypass. If you are set on doing it yourself you need to get proper step by step information on the process like what grades of paper to use, what type of filler, primer and paint you need to use otherwise you'll only be making an more ridiculous decision than last time. A bodyworks is only going to charge you more if they have to fix a botched job. Unfortunately you cant wash it off and start again. Hope this helps.

We we're actually considering making a few.........