trustr32

It will take a lot of patience skill and it'll more than likely need filler and paint after unless you really know what your doing. In fact allow for paint no matter how good you are lol.

Hey man thanks so am I lol. It's been way too long but well worth the wait. I haven't got any Dyno graphs of the initial tune as he cut it short because of the smoke so no idea of the power but I'll definitely get them up when it goes back in a couple of weeks. Cheers Justin yeah it's running sweet. if I didn't know it was a fresh engine I'd be more than confident to stretch it's legs. Engine ticks over like a dream, Gearbox is quiet and smooth, New clutch is a breeze to use now I'm used to it but has a bit of bite lol and the 4wd is working after I bled it last week and nearly drove the car off the front of the ramps once I had lol. I have been taking it pretty easy so far. Matt at Tas engine reco said that if Kutzie has tuned it rich not to go round getting it on boost too much as it will fuel wash the bores so I've just been keeping gear changes around 3700-4500 with the occasional venture to 5500-6000 every now and then and getting it under load up hills and stuff but I'll change the oil tomorrow night as it's starting to colour and go see Kutz next week to book it in for a porper tune. While I'm there I'll just have a chat to him about how much stick I should give it.

Looking good man I hate seeing them go back up on stands once they're up and running but its for the right reasons I guess. If you want any info on materials/processes with your bodywork your welcome to shoot me a pm anytime. I won't be doing my bodywork till next year cause I want to enjoy the car this summer but I'll definitely be watching yours with interest.

Well It's been nearly 4 months since I took my car in to get a base tune on it so I could run it in. The tuner rang me up that afternoon and told me that he had it on the dyno and everytime it hit boost it was chaffing oil smoke from the exhaust. He said he couldn't go any further because it was so bad and he thought it was turbo oil seals. Took the car home and tried every number of things until a member on here suggested I clean the exhaust. I dropped the exhaust off and whamo no smoke. Put it back on and smoke. So I gave it a thorough cleanout and put it back on the car and it cleared the smoke up about 80-90%. Got a day pass to go get tyres put on and it seemed to have fixed the problem. It's lucky because I was very close to swapping the turbo's out and it would have been for nothing but I wish I'd known and just bought a new exhaust from the get go. Skip to Friday just gone and I had it in for a RWC. Car passed with no problems went and put 12 months rego on it and have been driving it ever since!!!!!!!!!! Absolutely stoked to have this thing on the road after nearly 4 years of ownership. It is running great, idles smoothly, temp is sitting where it should, sounds amazing and the car just feels so tight and ready to eat up the road. (only got the run in tune so I'm babying it) but you can already feel the potential under your foot. I've already done nearly 300km this weekend so I'll do an oil change then get it upto around 1000km and get it back in for a proper tune. I'll get it cleaned up properly in the next week and get some decent photo's up but heres some quick phone snaps.

Got it all sorted and working. Thanks heaps for the pics Andrew so I knew what I was actually dealing with.

Awesome work man glad to see another one back on the road again. Seems like a few of the 32 GTR build threads have had great results lately. Still blows me out how much yours reminds me of mine lol.

Hey Andrew yeah that all makes sense thanks heaps for doing that. I'll try pulling it out tonight but I'm guessing I'll need to remove the actuator and do like you've suggested so I don't risk doing any further damage to anything in there.

Yeah I can see clearly now that that's what must have happened. The gearbox was sitting around twice for nearly a year each time so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Any ideas on the best way to get it back out? Where does that drive cog on the end actually connect to inside the box? Will it help if I pull the Attessa line off the back on the transfer case?

Hmm so as I'm posting that last post it occurred to me that could it be possible that my speedo drive has been pushed into the box too far ? Hence why mine doesn't look like Andrews?

Hey Andrew thanks for the pics but is there any reason why mine doesn't look like that? Are the push type different to the pull type? Or has someone modified my speedo drive or something? Mine looks like this

Thanks for that. Yeah made sure they were located even had the cable attached to the gearbox and held the other end to see if it was spinning. Also got a drill onto the cable with it attached to the speedo. Got upto 120km ha ha. but its def in the transmission.

Na man it's part of the cast housing right near the back of the trans. Not unless your talking about unbolting it from the inside of the gearbox but you def can't unbolt it from the outside.

Yeah mate I've tried 2 speedo cables. As stated I can see the speedo drive shaft where It comes out of the box doesn't spin.

Hi all, I have an R32 GTR and pulled the engine for a rebuild. While the gearbox was out I changed the fluids, Gearbox/Transfer Case and now the car is back together my speedo doesn't work. It worked before the engine rebuild and I originally thought cable so I got another one and tried it and it still didn't work. I know it's broken in the gearbox because I had the car on jack stands and running in first gear without the cable connected to the box and the little shaft that the cable goes into didn't turn. Have I missed something? I thought it would be purely mechanical looking at it so I doubt I've missed a plug or hose or anything. Just wondering if anyone knows how hard this is to fix? I'm assuming it's a gearbox out job? Why would it have just suddenly broken? The gearbox works fine it drives no problems just no speedo which affects my powersteering. Have I done some damage when I put the tailshaft back in or something? Any ideas/answers would be much appreciated. Cheers Brodie

I would say purpose made. Still really achievable. Get an FRP one, get it modified then get it carbon wrapped. I think it looks the goods on that white one and would look good in Carbon on your midnight purple.

Yeah I kept the 1mm restrictors in the turbo feeds but thought about putting another maybe 2mm restrictor in the banjo bolt in the block but I'll see how it goes first. I wish now id just bought a new exhaust a year ago lol.

Well I just thought I'd update and report that the exhaust clean seems to have done the trick so far. I went for a short drive today (25km) and while cruising the smoke was non existent as far I could tell. When boosting it would puff out some smoke but that seemed to get less and less each time. It's definitely at a driveable state so I'll get RWC and rego and then put some kms on it and post my findings.

Sorry mate I had a douchebag moment this morning.

Have you read the last page at all?

Yeah I'd be very surprised if the 32 and 34 had the same curve on the back of the boot. Having said that an N1 lip in fiberglass is not a lot of dollars and and decent panelbeater/spraypainter could definitely modify it to fit plus remove the indents for the wingmounts. I actually think it looks good on above car.

Yeah man if the oil issue is fixed/greatly reduced with the exhaust cleaned then I'll put the restrictors back in and also put the GCG oil drains on then measure the oil flow just to make sure. I still think they will need them as my oil pressure (I put a gauge in the engine bay like you suggested) rises fairly rapidly with the rpm.

So I gave the Y-pipe a proper clean up. 3 cans of de-greaser and a home made scourer/bottle brush/pipe cleaner and I got it to about 98%. It probably had about 2-3mm of carbon/residual oil coating the inside. Put it on and got it upto temp gave it some rev's and there was a little bit of smoke but nothing on what it was like previously. I'll get the rest of the exhaust cleaned up in the next week or so and see how it goes but at the moment whilst I don't want to get my hopes right up there hopefully you were right Scott. I'm quietly confident that it may be a fix.

Yeah neither can I but I'll give the pipe a clean and see how that affects things. if its an improvement I'll clean the rest of the exhaust back up and book in a day at the track to see if I can't burn the rest of it out.

Just the front pipe man. No smoke when it's straight out the dumps but as soon as the y-pipe is on it smokes. I didn't let it run for ages when I put it back on as soon as I realized it was smoking I gave up but I don't remember it being as bad as when the full exhaust is on. I'll pull the y-pipe off and give it a super duper good clean up and try again just with that on to totally eliminate exhaust but I don't think it's that.

Hey guys so exhaust has been cleaned. it did smoke as soon as engine went back in but that was from my original issue of a copy oil pump (didn't find out until I pulled the engine again) running at 115psi at idle. I originally thought glazed bores too but that wouldn't explain how it smokes when the y-pipes back on and doesn't when its only out of the dumps. I cleaned the cooler and every other pipe other than twin turbo pipe is new custom stuff. Engine was built by pros they do mostly all the machining in the tassie scene and have built tons of RB's. Engine runs like a dream idles beautifully revs crisply if it was registered id take it for a run at night so no one could see the smoke with the exhaust off you can hear both turbos spool down after a rev so everything is sweet other than god damn oil smoke. I've got a couple of numbers of some people to ring and chat to but I'm also going to get hold of a set of steel wheeled stockers and swap them out so I can eliminate any actual engine problems hopefully and go from there.