badhairdave

measure from the underside of the car directly behind the wheel arches. The sill is the bit that runs under the door

I'll offer a suggestion. take a corner in the wet and see what happens, then do the same corner at the same speed with traction control on. That will tell you straight away if you can't control the throttle. Typical skyline handling will pretty much mean if you go into a corner too hot and turn in you will understeer, if you hit the accelerator you will keep under steering until it snap over steers. You have stock springs and sway bars, so short of massive front and rear toe out your car should do this (and heasmans will not have given you toe out for a street car) Your photos show the pineapples on the bottom at the back, which means it's either neutral or traction. Not drift Don't call an alignment shitty because they use old gear. Track cars are set up with string lines and tape measures. Post the details of your alignment (camber, castor and toe front and rear) before calling it shitty. If you have the same tyres front and rear the handling should remain balanced. mid 30's is plenty of pressure for a street tyre. You've said that the ride is rougher with more pressure in the tyres, surely you get that this means it will be less forgiving over undulations when cornering? On the centre to guard measurements, have you checked the cars height at the front sills to confirm it was measured incorrectly?

what pads? Go out and get some heat into them. Performance pads get noisy when you don't push them.

In theory it's a straight blue slip. But most blue slip guys wouldn't touch it with the cage and seats. As long as you retain the stock seat belts you'd be ok with the harnesses. You'll almost certainly be up for engineering costs, or if it's a bolt in cage, return to stock costs and then reinstallation and run the gauntlet of defects. I would talk to your blue slip guy now, get his opinion on what he will and wont pass as far as mods go, then get as many photos as possible and go see an engineer and get an opinion and costs.

6's are stock gtr. gtst rb20det got 5's. Not that i ever put anything other than 6's in mine as they were commonly available.the rb25 got 7's once the boost got above 17psi and the 6's were causing detonation

that'd have to be one of the sorriest excuses i've heard in a while. I have some stock rear rotors here. I'm 10 minutes from OP. If you can get the car up to NSW you can have them.

5's are the factory heat range for a 32 gtst. 7's is just silly unless you are running some decent boost and have a good tune. they will tend to foul a lot easier than a hotter plug.

Is this an issue with the new starter motor or the old one? If you want to try a known good one in the next hour or so you can drop round to my place at eaglevale and grab my old one.

i dunno. The 80's spring to mind.... The worlds ugliest s12 for the uninitiated There's an r31 of similar spec too but i couldn't find a photo quickly

I made a half custom/half modded stocker for my s13 over christmas. It was so much fun i never want to do it again Relocated factory main fuse box into the cabin (on the tunnel under the dash) replaced factory interior fuse box with an after market 8 fuse unit completely remade the alternator/starter loom modded the engine loom to get power at new fuse box location so removed a heap of wiring from the engine bay modded the wiper loom in the same way as the s13 runs it all around the front of the car stock redid the tail lights with 7 core trailer wire, ditto the fronts (headlights to be replaced so not hooked up currently) redid the power windows with 4 relays and a couple of switches so now there's only 2 wires running to each door. In all seriousness, the biggest pain when doing mine was retaining the factory switch gear for headlights, wipers and indicators as there is a heap of wires there and the lengths all needed to be changed. I also kept hazards as it's part of the indicator loom and i figure it's nice to have them if you're crawling back to the pits with issues. Work in progress shot. I was really over it by this stage (about 3 days in) It'd also be a lot tidier if i didn't have future boost controller and boost gauge wiring already hooked in.

looks like a 3071 to me and i don't think gcg would badge it incorrectly either. I dunno where you get 3082R from? the cart will have -23 or -5023 on it. If gcg mod a turbo away from garrett specs they will remove the original tag and rebadge with the original numbers in addition to their own serial number to identify that individual turbo. It also looks like they have started enlarging the wastegate flap over what was originally offered by garrett. I had massive boost control issues with the same turbo in .63 and ultimately went down the path of an enlarged wastegate with some success. Skylinecouple runs virtually the same turbo, only difference would be the wastegate size and his has a surge modded cover. I would advise against the gcg flange unless you are prepared to do a lot of work with air saw and grinder or a mill. The wastegate port is (or was anyway) grossly undersized. I have my old dump/front pipe available if you are interested. It was to suit an r32 but it will save you a heap of work even if you just chop off the dump section and get some new piping added by an exhaust shop to match your exhaust.

Yeah, i usually make decent gains each track day as i have time to think about what i stuffed up. mail@tpg ate bhdave's validation email(s) when i tried to change my email addy and the admins didn't feel like responding to my emails asking for help... So i wrote off the account and made a new one.

yeah, 11.7. It's more the driver holding the car back than anything else atm as i wasn't able to shake the old turboed car braking points when this car is slower on the straight and faster in the corner so braking later and less is required... First time in the dry

Good choice for a cheap entry to motorsport. I would suggest brakes, suspension, and a set of semi slicks before power mods.

Considering the number of times my nugget was sideways or dropping a wheel (or 4) in the dirt at turn 9 i'd have thought it'd warrant a shot like the VW above Just kidding. I think there were more shots of my car at this event than any previous, despite it being uglier and slower than the old r32

As has been stated earlier in the thread, concentrate on mechanical grip first, then start playing with aero. I've said it on a few different forums when this topic pops up (and generally get ignored): If your car isn't balanced without a wing then you are really just masking a problem by adding one, rather than fixing the issue and then moving forward by adding aero. Personally i wouldn't add more than a stock style wing without looking at front splitters and decent front aero.

You wont need an alignment. Your camber and toe won't be affected.

It's because your catch can piping is small so the oil vapour is pushed through pretty quickly. It looks like there is oil in the can, and if there's no steel wool or baffles in there to catch it then a lot will run straight back into the intake while it's still vapour. We had a similar problem on a mates track car. We were sure it was the turbo as it had ingested something prior to him buying it, and there was a lot of oil seeping past the compressor backing plate and around the core. It also compression tested fine and there wasn't much oil in the can but still filled the piping and intercooler with oil. So we swapped the turbo for a known good one and the problem was still there. Swapped the catch can plumbing so it was externally vented and not going back into the intake and no more oil in the piping or seeping out of the turbo, and about 200mL of fuely oil in the can after every couple of sessions....

I'd have to agree with buying something that is as close to complete as possible. Just for reference; my NA silvia cost me 6250 and was already run on the track regularly. I've only spent another 1750 on it including new semis, rewiring, light weight boot lid and a cheap radiator. But i've swapped in a heap of stuff of the skyline (diff, seat, steering wheel, gauges, wheels, brakes) which at cost prices was around 4k worth. And i am getting the turbo engine sorted atm which already owes around 3k with the repair of the turbo and new housing, purchase of the engine, manifold, gate and assorted misc bits and pieces. And i still have to buy cams and injectors for the new engine And re bush the suspension And get some new front springs and shocks and reco the rears And, once the new engine goes in, i reckon i'll be up for a new clutch and box And i haven't even bought a trailer yet....

Hi all, As per the title i have a GT30 IW housing which was originally on my 3071 for $350ono. I have had the wastegate port enlarged by GCG so it now has a 38.5mm flap and roughly 34mm wastegate outlet. The enlarging of the gate cost me $350 For reference my new .63 non gated housing cost $550 locally, and if i'd bought from the US i could have got it for around $520 with the current exchange rate and shipping so this is a bargain if you are looking for a .63 IW housing for your 3071/3076 etc The turbo this came off is around 6 months old and I have recently had it recoed with this housing on it so it has a freshly skimmed flange and a nice lick of paint pics Prefer local buyer (sydney) but will ship at the buyers expense (registered post only). Cheers Dave

Engine is now sold

At the end of the day if denso are supplying an injector to sard and it has the same P/N as an injector supplied to PE then it's the same injector. If they've changed it it'll have a different p/n Someone make with the part numbers.

Ran into problems when trying to change emails and haven't received an email response back from an admin in close to 2 weeks now. So i guess the old BHDave acct is dead. Anyone interested please pm badhairdave rather than BHDave cheers Dave

Sorry DJrift, fronts are definitely sold. Ran into problems when trying to change emails and haven't received an email response back from an admin in close to 2 weeks now. So i guess the old BHDave acct is dead. Anyone interested please pm badhairdave rather than BHDave cheers Dave