badhairdave

Just a quick question on scrutineering; My surge tank and fuel pump are in the boot and i haven't gotten around to sealing the boot from the cabin yet, will this be an issue? And based on the comments about grabbing experienced sau'ers for pointers i'm assuming passengers are allowed? I'd like to attend if the car is still in one piece after a GP day on thursday.

Dunno if this'll help you decide ando The turbo setup owes me around 3.5k new price, plus cams, injectors ecu etc etc waste of time without the cams

paint it black and remove the roof lining. that'll do it and save weight too

you love your POS's don't you roy 3.5k won't get you anywhere with the 25 conversion as roy has stated. I did mine myself inc rewiring retaining the rb20 box and it still worked out around 2.5k. I already had the clutch, upgraded turbo and a bunch of other things. Add another 1600 min to do the 25 box conversion. Forget about rebuilding. Spend your money on a 3071 and some supporting mods and get the stock ecu nistuned. Run it til the engine dies and then chuck in a $500 wrecker engine. Good times ps. spend some money on decent brake pads and fluid.

Is it possible to pull more weight out of the car while keeping it registered or is it pretty much bare bones as it is? Have you considered playing with the diff ratio to gain some acceleration down the straight or is it already running a bit short on gears at OPGP and EC? How are you finding the r888's out of interest? I wasn't particularly impressed with mine and will be going back to re55's for the next set.

I was the opposite. I used it all the time in the skyline until it ran out of gas, then removed it

on an sr the bracket is a big hunk of cast iron so there is a reasonable weight saving On an rb it's alloy so you save about 3kgs less. On a CA i have no idea If you have cooling issues remove the condensor, other wise leave it all alone.

I thought that was because wages in Adelaide are so poor? Yeah, seems like you got a bit ripped though. I'd be interested to know what the difference in price was for, particularly on the first one. I'd accept 10mm as settling, though i'd think that the specialist would know that it will settle and take it for a reasonable length drive

It depends on how fat your fingers are. Please use a tape measure so we have a better idea of what sort of amount of difference we are talking. Also, did you take the car for a quick drive before measuring so everything is seated properly?

Don't make setup changes. If you haven't been to a track you don't know what your car will do and what needs changing Do the maintenance items like oil change, flush brake and clutch fluid, flush cooling system and replace coolant, check brake pads. I would suggest a full synthetic oil as it can protect up to a higher temperature and you have no oil cooler. Start slow and learn the lines and braking markers/points, then gradually increase your speed. Have a think between sessions about where you were losing time and go out with a plan, whether it's changing a braking point or a line through a corner or 2. Let faster people past and follow them to get a better idea of the correct lines. After the day is done, check the car over, have a think about what it was doing and where it could be improved for next time. I can pretty much guarantee you'll have some form of over or understeer issues (or possibly both) that can be improved for next time. Check your tyres and have a look at how they have worn. It's a pretty easy way to determine if you have enough camber.

May as well chuck a CA in..... Probably my most hated combo is rb20 in s13. It defines the term lead tipped arrow

isn't that a 40k engine bay? You'll need a lot of sponsors

yeah, 3071. Just have the dump, fuel pump and a few few mounts and air guides to do now and it's ready to go

Can i come too? Turbo engine install 90% done

yep, you've managed to get air in the clutch master so you will need to crack the nipple or just loosen the line and press the pedal to the floor to get enough fluid into it to do a proper bleed of the system. If you want to use the abs brake master you will need a tee and have to hook up the 2 front brake lines to the 1 port in the master. You're better off finding a new non abs master or just getting yours re kitted.

Yeah the shift is no quicker than a regular shifter but you have the advantage of no missed upshifts. if it's 1300 for just the shifter your money would be better spent elsewhere. A few hundred on stiffer mounts will virtually eliminate miss shifts and then you have $1000 to play with to make you faster.

ceffy is talking about a31/s13 style fronts where you can easily remove the spindle to get the backing plate off in one piece. Unfortunately the front end of a skyline is completely different and short of having your front stub axle and bearings pressed out and back in you are stuck with cutting it off.

You're smacking it in it's weakest plain anyway. Provided the welds don't tear off in either situation they are about equal as they both mount at 4 points. So i'd say ladder bar potentially better as you have 2 full width bits of tube as opposed to 1 with the other bar chopped in half and welded up so one less weak point. Potato/Potaato, as long as it meets the regs for the category either is better than nothing.

have a look around at your local importer. Most of them get in some decent rims to fill out containers. I got my last set of 17x9 sterns from otomoto for $550 or there abouts. they're a bit rough and not super light but for a track rim they do the job and have handled heaps of abuse. Prior to that i got some desmonds (not great but again a decent brand) from importbitz for around the 600 mark, and i know my old white ssr indy 500's originally came through importbitz as well though i bought them off a mate. They were around the 700 mark. Unfortunately 4 stud makes it a bit harder to find good offset wheels. Start trawling the NS for sale section i suppose.

gone

yeah, they are coppers. bcpr6es is the standard electrode, bcpr6e is the v from memory, as is brk6e which would also work

sorry guys, both gone

Yeah, i considered it but was unsure of the current draw of the motors so went the beefier option rather than have to re do the whole lot later if stuff melted on me.

I went the 1/2 cheap and lazy option. S13 but the process is still much the same. I utilized the fuse/relay/fusable link box from the engine bay and mounted it to the tunnel under the dash. This holds all my relays and links and from memory the head light fuses are still in it. As there are a bunch of circuits no longer used i popped out 2 of the fuse holder sections and you can clip in an extra 2 relays. I retained the factory switchgear and wiring for them as well as the wiring for the wiper motor and shortened them all up to the new location. Stripped the afm wiring out of the engine loom and split that section with only the afm running to the front of the car and the rest of the loom now running inside the cabin to the fuesbox. Battery is mounted to the floor behind where the passenger seat would be, +ve runs through a cut off switch to a distribution block which on one side goes to one of the cheapy narve fuse holders (i'm having second thoughts after reading this thread). head and tail lights are done with 7 core trailer wire, 1 extra heavier wire running back for the fuel pump. Alternator and starter were done as an entirely new section of loom and run through the existing driver side grommet in the fire wall. I also rewired the power windows. They are now run with 2 2 way self centering switches and 4 5 pin relays so no issues with the factory box breaking or finding where/how to mount the factory switches neatly with no door trims.

you just unbolt all the s13 brake bits off it and bolt up the skyline ones. You don't need to swap the whole knuckle over. The only thing i'm not sure about is the hand brake cables. I've heard you need the r33/34 hand brake cables as they are longer than the r32 but can't confirm one way or the other