badhairdave

yep, the new line goes all the way to the rubber bend that comes off the back of the inlet manifold. It's a prick of a spot.

Pro S kit comes with an intake pipe too. The dump will fit up perfectly with a stock type front pipe, When i helped a mate fit his he had a second hand trust dump which fit fine Installation is a breeze. The hardest part is getting the water feed behind the head in.

would have loved to come out to this. Hello Kitty has been sitting the garage for 6 months now due to lack of funds.... Should hopefully be back out to wakefield in the next couple of months.

you just set it so it switches the vct off at 4800 or so but it's on the rest of the time. Having it on at idle isn't ideal but doesn't hurt anything from what i've read, if anything it cleans up the idle if you have biggish cams as it reduces the overlap. Thats how i'll be setting mine up anyway. I would have liked to get a greddy mss which would have done it properly and is a compact nice looking unit but they are discontinued.

The frequency switch will only switch it on or off at a set rpm. it isn't a window switch like the msd unit. You could get it to work that way by playing with the hysterisis but that would only work in one direction (either increase or decrease in frequency) which makes it useless becasue your switch point would have to be at 1100 or so which you just don't see in regular driving unless you stop.

Liz's car didn't always behave If you haven't even done a track day then you should not be thinking about a track only car, regardless of of the costs. Who says your car isn't track ready? I said that for 3 years, kept adding mods to my r32, and when i finally did get out on the track i discovered it was rubbish and had to make significant changes to quite a few things to get it behaving. Money and time wasted. I would say take your car out now. Check your pads, bleed your brake, do an oil change and go. Worst case you'll find the limits of your brakes and tyres. Don't spend 2k on brakes, don't buy semis, just enter an open day and drive it. Once you have a couple of days under your belt, have a think about how serious you want to get. Personally, I had a street/track car, i binned it, parted it out and bought an unreg NA s13 to get back out there, which eventually got turbo'd. I hire trailers as i don't have room to store one so it's a bit pricey in that regard, and i have a work ute that can tow it so that's basically free. As with bezerk32 i miss not having a mild streeter to have fun in so i am in the process of putting one together. It won't be as fast but it'll be fun and less hassle to get places.

Dont you mean 1000hpatfw. The 4wd scion isn't supposed to be ready until later in the year

I have an NA s13 bm33 that might do the job for you

You're probably best off talking to jono seeing as bilstein still produce a similar product. I don't see anything wrong with the hsd kit. Probably ask them to confirm internal spring diameter to see if they are compatable with say eibach so you aren't tied in to using hsd springs which have limited rates and lengths.

the rebuild price you have been quoted seems a bit on the high side for 2 plain bearing turbos to me but not far off the mark. I would expect around 12-1300 if the wheels are ok. If you are in sydney try fred at turbologic (port kembla) as he has a lot of experience with the mitsu gear. Also precision at wetherill park is worth a go. That 2-300 is worth paying as you have local warranty/support. If you had a shagged comp or turbine it may be worth looking at the ebay turbo. It'll be equivalent to something like hypergear over here except using mitsubishi catalogue bits. For some reason we pay a ridiculous premium on mitsu turbo bits over here. Not sure what nismoids getting at. buy a cart, it's already balanced, swap on turbine and comp housing (in your back yard even). If you had to pay someone to put the housings on i'd be pretty cheap ~50 a turbo as it really is a 20 minute job.

looks like -5023 with .82 response to me. Also no boost control issues so can't be a .63 IW. Nice results mate, It's actually a very similar curve to my sr with .63 3071

You should be able to keep the air con. From memory i just loosened the bigger of the 2 fittings at the back and rotated the line until it was hard against the strut tower. I had issues with the power steering reservoir piping so relocated it behind the strut tower, though i know there was a guy in Melbourne that i sold a few bits to that didn't need to relocate it. i think he was using the t04e that came with the manifold originally which has a smaller comp cover.

yep

Try harder

they look like -10 to me. And yeah, filter then cooler is preferable but not essential. Re the oil feed, most adapters have a couple of ports on there for gauge senders which are pretty small. I don't know what size feed you have though so cant say yes or no. You may want to consider one of these if you haven't got an adapter http://www.tuneagent.com.au/public/merchan...em.aspx?id=1307 I'd use braid but it isn't really necessary.

Yep, no where. 56T vs 52T comp wheel. Not a true comparison. May as well say my 3071 makes 285rwkw and Juggernauts makes 290 odd. both have the same trim gt30 turbine and different comp wheels too.

Im interested to hear your thoughts on the difference between the cropped 3071 you had on the old r32 and the new 3076 setup in the s14.

I'd go 4 degrees front camber and toe the rear end in 2mm total to help with stability on corner exit as a starting point. pyrometer from there to see if you are using all of the tyre or just one side and adjust to suit.

sorry, guards gone, front bar destroyed

but it's too pretty to put on a track! Maybe i'm weird, but i wouldn't want to put a car that looked that clean on a race track. I tend to unintentionally ugly my cars up these days.... Out of interest, whats shipping worth?

Autosalon this year?

Are those gates the new compact 44mm ones?

Yeah, it fouls, you still need a spacer. I ran a 20mm with mine. If you are going to go a 3071 with internal gate then do not get the .63. The gate, even when enlarged just cant bypass enough exhaust for stable boost.

So in summary the 200 you save on pads doesn't quite cover the cost of a pair of new rotors? I lol'd. You used the same style of argument when you defended them wearing fast. I also like how you now state the a1rm's are comparable to a HC+, thats a fair step up from a ds2500 equivalent don't you think? He can ask me how long i've gotten out of HC+'s. 8 track days wore the pads out with minimal wear on the scr pro rotors, a further 8 days on SBS carbon ceramics on the same rotors looks like it has worn them more than the HC+'s did but they are still in good shape.