badhairdave

Make sure you pack your rain coats kids, friday/saturday aren't looking good http://www.weatherzone.com.au/nsw/sydney/eastern-creek.

it really depends on if you have kept the r32 up rights or swapped in the r34 ones. if you still have 32 ones with an eyelet you use 32gtst rear shocks. 34 gtt use a fork setup from memory so you need a 32gtr rear set

Most of the international guys would have to be here by now. Has anyone seen them out on track?

Thats all i've got. It was the 1 place i could catch and pass people when i was there last in my NA s13. I spent the rest of my 1:54.5 thinking how i could use some more power as i'd gain on people due to higher corner speed and at the first small straight they'd get it back.

If you can man up through turn 1 you will round up most of the softies who drove away from you on the straight by turn 2. You'll have them at turn 2 if you can do some really late braking

Interesting topic. I also tend to lean to the creative interpretation of rules line from a general interest/spectator point of view as the whole thinking outside the square thing interests me, but personally in that situation i would want to be certain that everything was compliant with no shadow of a doubt before even turning up. f**k entering a competitive event with cost to yourself (or sponsors) to be booted at the end, i'd be gutted and it would probably put me off future events. The old TWR volvo station wagon is a good example of creative interpretation. The rule read something along the lines of must use stock head casting (which in the volvos case was junk for racing as the valve angle was wrong and there was no room for decent lift cams etc etc) so they milled the top of the head off and manufactured a bunch of new bolt on cam carriers and inserts that allowed them to get the lift they wanted and position the cam where they wanted and angle the valve how they wanted. I think it cost them something ridiculous like 4 times as much to mod the stock head than it would have to make a new casting.

That longhurst incident was the first thing i thought of

You've also got luis from drift garage punting around a 500+ rwhp s13 in open. It should weight a good 100-150kg less than the s2000 as they aren't lightweight (unless compared to gtr's of course). Massive difference in track experience but potential for a good drag race down the straight.

It's more the bending moment at the base of your crane. By using multiple mounts you reduce it some what but ultimately when you lift something up at the other end (say a 200kg rb on a 2m lever arm) it'll try and bend the post outward. It'll probably hold 200kg vertically fine but once it starts to bend it can go pear shaped fairly quickly. it gets worse when you rotate the crane as you no longer have the 2 posts in plane, but side by side and that significantly reduces the moment it could handle. If you want to continue with it i would be doing some trial runs at full weight while keeping a good eye on what the poles are doing.

not worried about the strength of the crane, more about what you are mounting it to. Is that 2x 1 inch tubes with a few stiffners?

Nice one, That's getting seriously quick

I'll back boz on that one having also been at that day. No issue with calling an additional briefing. Calmly emphasising basic safety concerns, such as removing loose stuff from the car before going out on the track, is far from going off.

Just a few simple ones (sorry don't have photos): Get a decent size bench vice, not some pissy little 4 inch jaw thing. You can never have too much light. I have a small 2 car garage and i have 6 twin fluros in it. It's lighter inside than out on an overcast day. Make sure you position at least one light directly over your main work areas so you aren't casting a shadow on whatever you are working on. You may also want to reposition the light switch to be near a door as it can be a pita crossing the garage in the dark. too_much_boost has a fairly massive garage and has run an air line through the roof and has a few points through out the garage to hook into, rather than having to unroll a hose and drag it across the garage to reach stuff all the time. Add power points at your bench so you aren't running extension cables everywhere. I added 4 power points, 2 new ones for the roller doors so they weren't reaching half way around the garage and 2 new ones on the bench, plus i have the original 2 not far from the bench if i ever need to put stuff on charge out of the way while i'm working and to plug in the compressor. Next step is better storage.

Those tyres have barely been pushed. You haven't even feathered the edge of the tread blocks. I would respond to their email and point out that you are not interested in pro rata replacement if and when it delaminates due to the obvious safety concerns/potential damage that will result in a high speed delamination on a race track. State that you will be pursuing the matter through the Dept of fair trading/small claims court if you are not satisfied with their response. You will be seeking a full refund as they are not performing as advertised. Basically, they are a high performance tyre, they are near new and they have started to come apart. You wouldn't accept it on the cheapest of tyres. They are advertised as a competition/motorsport tyre http://www.federaltyres.com.au/specs/ss595.pdf Have a look at the dept of fair trading website in the mean time under the warranty section. The tyres are new, you have a warranty, they have to honour it, it's the law. http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/Consumer...warranties.html You have everything you need to back yourself and get a refund or replacement.

If it's only pulling an amp i'll rip the extra relay out of my setup once i get around to setting the switch point and tidying everything up. I only just chucked it in half an hour ago and then it started raining again....

custom housings and a good split dump pipe. yes, the hks housings fit garrett turbos, just make sure you get the right one (not the 2835 one to suit the cropped turbine)

Interesting problem. So it doesn't fire at all? If you take it for a drive and open it up can you blow the plug clean and it starts to fire? Or alternately if you bring the piston to TDC and blow it dry with a compressor, then install a new plug and start it immediately will it fire?

It's pretty normal to have a bit of shit in the cooling system. It will tend to accumulate where you have a blocked off line as the water isn't flowing. Just give it a flush next time you change the coolant.

I agree, it's nice. plus the lawn doesn't grow as fast On top of the above there's usually a light mist in the mornings around EC which more often than not will burn off before 9 but sometimes it hangs around. The cooler over night temps means the landfill doesn't stink as much as usual and the steam rising off it in the morning is just spectacular

You could also try PAR http://www.par-engineering.com/

I'm amazed at the lack of rust. I remember going and looking at alfa's (sud's, sprints and GTV's) with my old man 15 years ago and 9 out of 10 were full of holes.

Yeah, you just get a 1 year wakefield licence on the day for 60 bucks or so.

yeah, it's cheaper and easier than getting a decent sump

I must be one of the lucky ones or something. I did over 10 track days in my r32 with rb25 and a few skid pan days and it never breathed a drop. It was just a stock s1 rb25 making 260-288rwkw. Plus i always ran an extra 1/2 litre of oil in the sump to avoid surge. If it's straight oil and doesn't smell fuelly it's the usual rb breather problem. If it does then you have dead rings.

Thats the funniest thing i've read all week. Of all the brands you have listed you have stated the best shock is for street only....