badhairdave

Don't worry, most skyline owners are still in denial so will think i'm trolling

Probably a bit late now, but would you have seriously put in all that time and effort to stick a diesel turbo on it when you had the gtss option? The results are ok i guess, pretty good for a cheap turbo, but nothing special. twin gtss's on the other hand i would expect to be pretty impressive.

Sell the r33 and buy a caterham. It will be cheaper in the long run and faster as well, plus it weighs well under 900kgs Or sell it and buy an s13, sub 1000kg is easy enough and as an added bonus they are cheaper to buy, cheaper to run, cheaper to modify than an r33 and faster too

rs580 = nismo

I'm with skit r31. It's a key way to locate the balancer, nothing else, and the damage isn't that bad, one side is still perfect so you can still line it all up right. If the slot in the balancer is flogged out then replace it. If the crank was already out then yeah, $200 cheap fix. But it's not; As soon as you pull that engine apart you may as well have thrown it in the bin and bought another 3 s/h short engines as you won't get change from 2.5k to have someone that knows what they are doing put the whole thing back together properly. Not some monkey that passes them self off as an engine builder.

No issue stepping up the intake as long as it has a reasonable length intake pipe. I have installed one of the early proS kits on a mates rb25 with the supplied 3-4 inch adapter and 3inch intake pipe and there was no stalling issue there. Stock bov. I ran my 3071 rb25 with a 3-4 inch step and no bov and it never stalled. I ran my old hks t300s low mount kit rb25 with a 3-4 inch step and a very tight type r bov that didn't open unless there was 15psi+ behind it and it never stalled. My old gcg highflow on a high mount manifold with very short intake pipe, 3-2.5 step down and no bov stalled like a mofo.

Get the gas test done on the coolant to confirm HG. It's the easiest way to rule it out. With the problem getting progressively worse it seems pretty likely. Running E85 is probably helping to keep your temps down as well.... Probably wouldn't hurt to under drive the water pump either.

don't forget the ca18i, the most awesome engine ever produced by nissan. So awesome it doesn't follow the naming convention or need the twin plug stupidity of the ca20. It's bottom end is factory rates to 600ps but Nissan didn't want to unleash such an engine on the unsuspecting public so limited the power to 80ps with it's sohc rocker snapping awesome sauce head.

hardy spicer, chipping norton. Give luis at drift garage a ring, he has a guy around ingleburn i think but i don't have details.

I dunno, shit could still go wrong

bend them back, just be carefull with the exhaust valves as i think they are filled with sodium and that shit hurts if it gets in your eyes. fill in the holes in the piston crowns with metal putty. As a bonus you can use a bit extra to raise the static compression if you have some left over.

If it's an abs one and you have an abs one it'll be identical. If it's non abs then the ports are in different spots. It'll work fine but you will need to bend lines and probably extend the line for the rear circuit to reach the port

there's a comparison with a 3582 posted earlier in the thread.

Has anyone else had a play with match bot? The smaller turbos with small housings don't seem to work right. You end up venting over 40% of exhaust to keep boost in check which apparently is choke flow? I'd have thought these were the small 4 cylinder bolt ons but they seem to work better in twin config and for small 4's you need the .92 T/S t4 housing so not really a bolt on anymore and a big chunk of the market gone.

Found link to a 6258 on sr install http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=2287&page=8 Will be interesting to see how it compares to a disco/2871. Unfortunately they don't bolt up to a std low mount manifold due to physical size as i suspected....

Same, hence the comment. Though Noel took offence Unless something even better comes out i will almost certainly be getting an EFR turbo next. Thinking about a high revving rb20 32gtst with a 7470 for some stupid reason these days....low mount of course to hide the elephant man looks of the comp cover There's an EFR thread with some results in it scott

I'm starting to think BW intentionally uglied up their turbos to scare off fanboys. It just looks untidy...

ghetto, defeats the purpose of twin scroll entirely. It isn't new tech, mazda had it on the s4 rx7 back in 86, ditched it for the s5. I'm sure others have had it longer. Lithium, good choice. 7670 is probably the pick for an rb25, though i'm fairly interested to see how a 7064 would go.

garrett: it's lighter, billet and has new tech! it's awsome zebra: none of that means shit. the small increase in trim means it'll spool the same as the next size up gt wheel.

Shit, my SR20DE makes an extra 10-15rwkw through the midrange with VCT on. If your tuner isn't seeing gains then he's doing something wrong.

It's been asked but you haven't answered. Which highflow did you get? Hypergear does quite a few different ones so if you have one of the bigger 280+ capable ones you aren't going to significantly improve your response. I had one of the original GCG stage 2 highflows on my rb20, same same. lazy coming onto boost and you had to keep the revs up so you didn't drop off boost. With an rb20 you just have to accept that nothing will happen below 4k. Been there, done that, got an rb25.

Is there a thermostat in there somewhere? If not it shouldn't matter which way it's hooked up, it'll still flow in the configuration you have. The horror stories are from ones with the 2in-2out style oil filter relocator/thermostat in one types (hks/trust). Anyway, you've said the lines and fittings up to the core are hot and you can feel the pressure in there so there must be some flow through the thing, or your engine would already be dead from lack of oil. You don't have an inline thermostat hidden in the guard somewhere that you have forgotten about do you?

I put a tonne of gravel in the back of it the other day. If "real world feel for the vehicles handling" means softens up the ride nicely at the expense of steering then they have it right....

It's not a massive turbo but it is still significantly larger than the stock one. A fair chunk of your issue is vct. The window switch mentioned by pm-r33 is the easiest way to get it working properly again.

Yeah it's a copy, but wheels sizes match the genuine ones and there have been quite a few success stories with these turbos as opposed to the old china t70 shitters. I would steer clear of the gtx3071 for now. Initial gtx results seem to indicate that, yes the smaller wheel is capable of moving as much air as the old next size up gt wheel, but response is lost to do it. I would stick with the old tried and true 3071, probably a genuine garrett .84 TS housing, not reprofiled ATP .78, on the hks manifold, or just a regular old .63. Unfortunately there isn't a suitable size BW efr available atm that will bolt up. Remind me psymon, did you have a t3/t4 drilled manifold or just t3? Some of the bw turbos are skipping the t3 and going straight to t4 footprints (just like hks....)